Answers and Tips
Terrariums Part 1: Introduction
Part 1 of a 3 part series
A miniature world under glass, terrariums are fascinating and remarkably easy to create and maintain! Over the next 3 posts, I will be discussing everything you need to know about designing, planting, and maintaining terrariums.
I first got into terrariums a few years ago when my colleague James starting collecting glass bell jars and specimen begonias. I must confess his enthusiasm was contagious! I now have two and have given one to my sister. Plants have been grown under glass since Victorian times. In those days they were commonly referred to as Wardian cases, named after Dr. Nathaniel Ward who first introduced society to these mini ecosystems.
It is so easy to grow terrarium plants in enclosed environments, because they need not be constantly watered or groomed. In their native habitat, plants requiring extra humidity were growing on the floor of the rainforest, in tree crevices or on rocks with a thick canopy of growth overhead. The most important things to remember about their care are to keep the containers out of direct sunlight, and to try and keep them on the cool side. Many unsuccessful growers have forgotten that the plants love humidity, but they do not like wet feet.
There are a few things to consider before planting your terrarium:
- Make sure the plants you select are the appropriate scale for the container and the other plants, otherwise it will dominate the design
- Select plants that are completely different from each other in terms of color, leaf shape and growing habit. The key is for each plant to have its own unique personality, instead of them all blending together.
- Don’t be discouraged if a plant doesn’t make it. Terrariums are a learning experience and may take a little time to gauge how much or little water is needed. Proper plant choices will minimize this issue.
Check back in a few days for part 2 of this series: Creating Open Terrariums and more great planting inspiration.
For a quick how-to: Click Here
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PDFUseful Stuff to Know About Feeding Birds
Black-capped Chickadee: courtesy of Aspen Song
Northern Cardinal: courtesy of Aspen Song
Location. Location. Location. Hang your feeder in the quiet place near trees and shrubs that provide protective cover. Cats are cute, but not to birds, so don’t hang your feeder too close to the ground. On the other hand, don’t hang the feeder 15 feet high or higher - birds natural feeding habits are about eye-level (5-8 feet) similar to a shrub height or small tree height. Finally, don’t place the feeder too close to windows – birds can easily be scared away by your indoor movements.
Avoid cheap seed mixes. They’re inexpensive because they’re packed with a high percentage of millet, cracked corn, and other fillers that native songbirds do not like. Worse yet, cheap seed attracts those infuriating invasive sparrows that overwhelm your feeding area. Millet also attracts large nuisance birds like blackbirds, grackles and starlings.
Dirty feeders can still make birds sick. Empty your feeder and wash the inside in a light (9:1) water-bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry. Remember to do it every month or so. If you have NEVER done this, do it today. Also keep in mind that seed, like any other food, goes bad. Last year’s seed is probably not healthy. If your seed is full of cobwebs, flour moths have invaded it. Yuck!
Go easy on the stale bread. Birds may seem to love it, but bread to a hungry bird is like popcorn is to a hungry human: Loads of filler, but no nutritional value. Bread also attracts mostly starlings and house sparrows.
Provide suet. It replenishes energy and nutrients, and helps birds survive the long, cold winter. In the spring, suet meets the increased energy demands of nesting birds. In the summer months, it provides a good substitute for insect-eating birds, especially in years when insects are not very plentiful. In fall, suet helps wild birds store fat to prepare for migration or the coming winter.
New feeders may require patience. Depending on your environment it can take birds days, weeks, and in some cases months to start to use a new feeder. If the feeder is a replacement from an older feeder, it may still take time for them to use the new feeder.
Give them a drink. A heated birdbath in winter provides a reliable source of water, and gives birds more reason to stay in your location. Sporadic visits. Birds generally feed 3 times per day: morning, midday, and early evening. Don’t be surprised if the rest of the day your feeder is quiet. Birds can also be highly active one day and vanish the next. Don’t be alarmed, chances are they will return.
Place the feeder where you can watch. Use binoculars and keep a bird guide handy. Watching birds is not only fun, you’ll be reminded when the feeder is empty. Best of all watching birds lowers your blood pressure. (OK we made that last bit up – but who knows, it might.)
How to prolong Christmas Trees, Wreaths, Greens and Poinsettias
Christmas Trees
Prolong: Christmas Tree Preservative
The secret to a long lasting tree is hydration. A properly watered tree will keep its needles and fragrance longer, and be safer, too. Whenever you buy a Mahoney’s Christmas tree we give it a “fresh cut” about ½”-¾” off the base to remove the sap “plug” – which allows your tree take in water. As soon as you get it home (or within 24 hours), place the tree in a stand that holds at least 1 gallon of water. Never store a tree on concrete and never shave off bark. Check to make sure the stand always has plenty of water. Do not allow the water level to drop below the trunk bottom or a new sap plug will form that will prevent water uptake. A new tree will take in a lot of water in the beginning, so don’t take a chance – plan on refilling your tree stand daily. Keep the tree away from fireplaces, radiators, hot air vents and other heat sources that could cause it to dry out. One more thought is to add tree preservative (Prolong) to the water. It helps to keep the needles fresher longer.
Poinsettias
Poinsettias do not like the cold. Whenever you transport your poinsettia (either when first taking it home, or when you are bringing it as a gift) make sure it’s protected from temperatures below 50°. Even if you’re just taking a quick trip it may be prudent to wrap your poinsettia in paper and preheat your car.
Once home, watering is pretty simple. Check the soil every day or so, waiting for it to feel a little dry to the touch – but don’t wait so long that the leaves wilt. When it feels lighter and dry, then give it some water – but not too much. Over-watering is a more common mistake than watering too little. Also do not allow your poinsettia to sit in the water. Pour off any excess water, or place your poinsettia pot on a tray of pebbles. This will keep the roots from ‘drowning’.
Poinsettias don’t need a lot of light to stay colorful through the holidays, but some natural light will help them be extra vibrant well into the new year. Do not place your poinsettia where it can “bake” in the hot afternoon sun. Rotate as needed to help it grow straight.
Poinsettias prefer temperatures between 60º and 72°. Keep your poinsettia away from drafts, radiators and hot air registers. Feeding it every few weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer, such as 20-20-20 is also a great way to prolong your poinsettia’s color and beauty.
Wreaths, Garland, and Roping
Wilt-Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leavesIf possible, before you do anything else, soak your wreath or greens in cold water for 3-6 hours. The needles will soak up the moisture. Adding Prolong to the water will help extend the freshness of your greens. Another great option is to spray Wilt-stop on the leaf or needle surface. Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves. It’s easy to use and works great. Note: Unfortunately Wilt-Stop will seal in the scent of the greens and can also alter the color of blue evergreens and holly. Obviously soaking and Wilt-stop only work if your greens haven’t been decorated yet. Other than that, simply try to keep your greens out of direct sunlight and away from all heat sources. Adding humidity to the room will help a lot, too.
Fall Is For Planting Trees, Shrubs, Perennials and Lawn Seed
While it may seem that the gardening season should be over, fall is actually a perfect time to plant. Yes, things above ground may look bleak, but below ground root growth is still in full swing.
- Planting success is all about the roots.
- You can plant later than you may think.
When you plant in the fall the soil is still warm from summer. Warm soil temps encourage new roots to grow. Fall is also the time when plants naturally shift their energy from top growth to root growth. This helps plants establish faster. Rainfall is more plentiful and predictable in the fall. New plantings require moisture for optimal growth. In addition, annual weeds that compete for nutrients and moisture are finishing their life cycle, which reduces this competition. And fall’s ample rainfall encourages roots to grow more deeply. Deeper roots are better able to find water now and next spring.
Another counter-intuitive benefit to planting in the fall is the cooler air temperatures above ground. Cooler temps mean less stress and fewer pest and disease problems.
Last but not least, roots continue to grow until the ground freezes. The results are that plants that are put in the ground in the fall will have stronger roots to start off next spring. Then when summer comes, they will be better equipped to deal with heat and drought.
Some things need to be planted in the early fall
There are many plants that will thrive when planted about four weeks before the first hard frost. These plants – grass seed, turf and cool season vegetables – need to establish a root system before the ground starts to cool in late fall.
Seeds or seedlings of lettuce, radishes, broccoli and spinach can be planted in early fall. To extend the harvest later into the fall, a row cover of black plastic can be added for further protection once heavy frost arrives.
Early fall is the best time for rejuvenating your lawn or for planting a new lawn. Grass seed germinates at cooler temperatures than summer can provide. Weeds are not germinating now making it the perfect time for lawn work. Ideally, new grass seed should be planted about a month before the first hard frost predicted for your area.
Groundcovers such as Vinca or pachysandra will develop strong root systems when planted in the fall. When spring arrives your fall planted beds will be thick and full of healthy plants.
Some things can be planted even into late fall
Any perennial, shrub or tree that has been grown in a container or ball and burlapped can be planted late into the fall – right up until the time that the ground freezes. Later plantings will benefit from a protective mulch once the ground is frozen. This insulates the soil and keeps it from freezing and thawing.
Tulips, Daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs are best planted from mid-October through ground freeze. Planting too early can cause the bulbs to send up top growth at the wrong time. Planting bulbs in the fall ensures a good root system and a beautiful garden when spring arrives.
Final benefit
Savvy shoppers know that plant prices come down as the year comes to an end. Perennials are an especially great bargain because most people see a perennial that has passed and assume it’s dead. Fact is planting perennials in the fall means you’ll get a great price, and the plant will have the fall months to grow a strong root system. Next spring you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic, established plant and some extra money in your pocket to boot.
Overseeding Your Lawn
Overseeding for better greening.
Every fall when we post our list of lawn care suggestions, we’re reminded that many people think that spring is the quintessential season for lawn care. Yes, spring is when most people dust off their garden gloves and tackle their lawns, but the fact is back-to-school is perhaps an even better time to treat your lawn to some TLC. Fertilizing, compact aeration, composting and compost tea all are excellent ways to help your lawn looks its best, but perhaps the most important fall activity is to thicken your lawn by “overseeding” with new grass seed. Yes, a thicker lawn looks better, but the real secret is that a thicker lawn helps crowd out weeds naturally, without resorting to chemical weed killers.
Why do it now.
Back to school is always a little crazy, but if you can squeeze in a couple of hours, here are a few reasons why late August through September is the best time to grow new grass seeds and get that thick green lawn that will be the envy of your neighborhood. While daytime temperatures are on the decline, below the surface the soil retains its warmth – and warm soil helps seeds germinate faster. Back-to school season also brings more rainfall – not great for football, but super helpful for seed germination. Cooler temperatures also reduce insect infestation and disease. And last but not least, weeds don’t germinate during cooler fall days, so your new grass won’t have to compete with new weeds.
How to Overseed Your Lawn
- Mow at the lowest possible setting. If you got a grass-catcher, use it –– lumps of cut grass will interfere with new seed germination.
- Use a grass rake to remove all dead grass and twigs. This will help ensure good contact between the new seed and soil. It’s also good exercise.
- If your lawn soil is compacted (hard to pierce with a shovel or spade) have the lawn aerated. This allows for moisture to reach the seeds and roots. You can rent a DIY machine, or call Mahoney’s Safelawns and we’ll do it for you. (Compact aeration is a good idea even if you are not overseeding.)
- Spread a high quality seed. Quality seeds cost an extra few bucks but will produce a more disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, attractive lawn. (Click here to learn why Uncle Mike Mahoney prefers the Jonathan Green line of seeds and lawn care products.)
- Apply a quality seed starting fertilizer to provide the phosphorus needed to establish strong roots
- Spread a 1/2-inch layer of compost over the seed –– this is important to improve the soil and will help keep moisture near the seeds.
- Water consistently. Grass seeds will ABSOLUTELY DIE if they’re allowed to dry out, so your number one job is to keep them moist for at least 3 weeks. Watering should be shallow — getting the top 1/4 inch wet is enough — but you may have to water twice a day especially if it’s hot. Warning: Allowing new seed to dry out for even a day or two can ruin the grass seed you just spread. One option is to buy a faucet-end hose timer.
- After 3 weeks, you can water less frequently but more deeply.
- Do not mow until the old grass reaches 3 inches.
Got Bare Patches? Seed Now, Too
- Remove all dead grass roots and debris with garden rake or cultivator.
- If your soil has the consistency of clay, spread some compost over the area. If your lawn is compacted, do compact soil aeration.
- Smooth with a rake or smaller tool, like your hand.
- Sprinkle a modest (not too thick) layer of premium grass seed over the spot.
- Add a quality organic or traditional seed starting fertilizer.
- Gently tamp the seed and fertilizer down so it doesn’t easily wash away when you water.
- Apply a thin (1/4 inch) layer of straw, sifted compost, or soil-less growing medium as mulch.
- Water at least daily to keep the seeds constantly moist for 3 weeks, as you would for overseeding the whole lawn.
Yes, it looks like a lot of steps, but overseeding is not rocket science, doesn’t take all that much work and really isn’t very expensive. Plus year after year you’ll be rewarded with an easer to maintain, more beautiful lawn. One final note: don’t procrastinate –– new grass roots need time to establish before frost, so for best results make sure to overseed before October 15th. Got questions? Stop in to any Mahoney’s – we’ll talk you through it.
Now let’s hear your fall lawn care secrets.
Got any fall lawn care tips or helpful suggestions that you’d like to share? Leave a comment and let us know your recipe for successful fall lawn care.
Petunia Budworm Problem - Updated
This is an update of a post from last summer (My Petunia Budworm Problem) because the annoying flower-eating pests called budworms are back this year with a vengeance.
Photo source and for more information: Penn State
My petunias weren’t flowering well.
Knowing that petunias don’t like the heat, my first thought was to blame the few hot days we had. Then, because petunias like regular feedings, I wondered if perhaps I didn’t feed them enough before I went on vacation.
But when I looked more closely I noticed chew marks in the tender foliage of flower. Then I saw black dots* all over the foliage. Finally, I found the insect - the infamous petunia budworm.
If you see similar damage on your petunias, look for the budworm caterpillars during dusk when their larvae are most active, or during daylight hours, check around the base of the plant where they hide. They start really small and get bigger as they get older.
The bad news is budworm caterpillars can devour all your petunia flowers in a couple days. The good news is that there are two treatments that work great.
How to treat for Petunia Budworm
Petunia Budworm Treatment Options: Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (left) and Eight - Yard and Garden (right) both by Bonide
If you catch it on the early side, a good remedy is a spray called Captain Jack’s Organic Deadbug Brew by Bonide. It’s a good solution for lots of bug problems, so not a bad thing to keep on hand.
If your petunias are really infested, another option is called Eight Yard and Garden, also by Bonide. Eight is water-based, but not organic. It works a little bit quicker, but in most cases Capt Jack’s is just fine. Whichever you choose you’ll need to re-apply every couple weeks or as needed.
Then try to feed your petunias with some water-soluble fertilizer. Do this and your petunias will bounce back to full bloom in about three days. Neat, huh?
Preventing Budworm from Returning
The budworm can survive winter as a pupa in the soil unless the soil freezes deeply. So if you overwinter potted plants in a protected area, such as garage, you might be helping the buggers survive. If you are going to keep potted geraniums or other perennial host plants between seasons, remove the soil to eliminate pupae and repot the plants before overwintering.
*FYI: The black dots are little budworm poops.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON BEES AND CAPTAIN JACK’S DEADBUG BREW
This product is toxic to bees exposed to treatment for 3 hours following treatment. Do not apply this pesticide to blooming, pollen-shedding or nectar-producing parts of plants if bees may forage on the plants during this time period. It is best to apply late in the afternoon when bees are not active. This product is toxic to aquatic invertebrates. To protect the environment, do not allow pesticide to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters or surface waters. Applying this product in calm weather when rain is not predicted for the next 24 hours will help to ensure that wind or rain does not blow or wash pesticide off the treatment area.
My Azaleas and Rhododendrons look dead! What can I do?
Winter Damage on a Rhododendron: Although the leaves may be brown and curled, this doesn’t necessarily mean the plant is dead. In fact in most cases the plant will rebound easily with a little TLC.After a long, cold, snowy winter like we just had, we often see damage to our shrubs and trees often called “winter kill” or “winter damage.” The most common damage is brown or dead-looking azaleas, rhododendrons, holly and other broadleaf evergreens. Most people assume cold temperatures are to blame, but it’s actually caused by dehydration. In winter, cold dry winds and bright sunshine suck moisture from the foliage of broadleaf evergreens, much like chapped lips after a day of skiing. Plus, because the ground is usually frozen and the plant is dormant, plants can’t move water through their roots back to theire leaves. The result is dehydration, browning the tips of leaves or even entire branches. The more exposed to wind and sun, the greater the damage; particularly heartbreaking when it happens to shrubs you’ve loved for 20 years or more. Yes, sometimes the plant is dead and will need to be replaced, but often winter damage only make shrubs appear dead.
How do I know if it can be saved?
Look carefully and you’ll see that the leaves may be brown and brittle but the branch may have good life. Try gently scratching the bark with a fingernail, if underneath it’s greenish and pliable it’s probably still alive. If under the bark is brown and brittle the branch is probably dead – but not necessarily the whole plant. Continue the exploration down the branches and you will probably see some life along the way. Usually I tell people to leave winter damaged shrubs alone until late May. By then you can see the new growth starting, making it easier to see and prune the brittle dead wood. In any case, don’t give up on them to soon – in early spring, winter damage often looks a lot worse than it really is! All you need is a little patience and a good organic fertilizer.
The Scratch Test: Try gently scratching the bark with a fingernail, if underneath it’s greenish and pliable it’s probably still alive. If under the bark is brown and brittle the branch is probably dead – but not necessarily the whole plant.
Holly-tone by Espoma: Use it on all broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood and Andromeda.
Help the recovery with a good organic fertilizer.
I can remember I had a Holly and an Azalea that turned completely brown from winter damage. Then after feeding with Espoma Holly-tone fertilizer and some warmer weather from Mother Nature both plants completely re-foliated and grew back to where they were the previous fall. This saved me the time and effort of replanting the shrub. The earlier in spring you take action the better because it will allow more time for the bare branches to re-bud and start to fill in. There are other products to choose from, but Holly-tone is easy to use and it’s worked well for me. If there is mulch around the base, just push it away to expose the soil. Scratch the soil surface a little to allow for good soil contact and spread Holly-tone around the drip line of the shrub (the area under all branches). Just follow instructions on bag for proper quantity. Then just replace the mulch, water and wait for the magic healing to begin. You may need to go back and do some tip pruning later to cut out some dead wood but it’s far better than throwing out a live plant.
Side note:
There are several products that help prevent winter kill. They’re called “anti-desiccants,” a kind of a sunscreen for plants. Spraying an anti-desiccant places a harmless transparent wax coating over the broadleaves. The effect is to reduce the dehydration caused by wind and sun. Typically it’s applied after the first really cold nigh in late November or December. At Mahoney’s we recommend Wilt Stop by Bonide, but there are other good products to choose from.
Safe Solutions for Mole and Vole Problems
Vole Damage: Damage from vole ‘runways’, as pictured above, is an un-welcome sight as snow melts in the spring. Photo Credit: Jason D. Lanier, UMass Extension Technician
Now that our record-breaking snow pack is just an unpleasant memory, our attention can focus on the lawn and garden. Something to watch for are signs of moles, voles and other winter hungry rodents. Heavy snow provides protective cover from predators, so moles and voles are free to do a lot of damage without risk.
Moles (carnivores) can be found in the lawn feeding on grubs and other insects or even earthworms. Voles (herbivores) tend to go after perennial beds and turfgrass. As snow receeds, you might notice bare patches of lawn where voles have fed on the grass, usually accompanied by vole ‘runways’ (winding 1-2 wide pathways) which are caused by wear from vole traffic.There are lots of different products on the market for moles and voles. I’ve seen baited poison pellets syringes that are injected into the ground, peanut or grub looking bait poison, or even guillotine looking traps.
Mole Max: by Bonide
While you may feel the rodents that just ruined your lawn and garden deserve to die, there is an organic non-lethal product that really works: It’s called MOLEMAX from Bonide. MOLEMAX is an organic castor oil. Available in liquid or granules, the package says it repels moles, voles, gophers, rabbits, skunks and armadillos. (Man, I really hate it when those armadillos hang around) Very simply, these critters don’t like the taste and move out of the area relatively quick. It’s safe around children, plants and pets, and can be applied spring, summer or fall – but now is a great time since you’re bound to discover those guys in great numbers after the snow is gone. Apply on lawns, flower beds and gardens. Lasts up to 3 months.
Click here to download the “VOLE DAMAGE TO LAWNS” (PDF) factsheet from UMass Extension
5 Winter Tips for Healthy Houseplants
1: Avoid Overwatering
It’s counterintuitive, but overwatering is the most common reason plants fail – particularly in the winter. Overwatering can cause browning of leaves, fungus, gnats, and dropping of leaves. Wait to water your houseplants until they become dry. Test the soil with your finger. When the top inch is dry, then add water.
Nice Idea: Use the same watering vessel each time, so you know to add the same amount whenever you water.
Neat Idea: place a cork pad under your plant’s saucer. This will eliminate water stains on your carpet or hardwood floors.
2: Cleen the Green
Keep your leaves free of dust and grime this will keep your plants healthier – plus they’ll look better. Take a half of a lemon and squeeze it into a quart of water using a soft cloth. Wet it with the lemon mix and wipe gently. Support the foliage using your other hand so you won’t bend or break the leaf. Unless you live in a dust bowl, you’ll probably only have to do this once every six months or so.
3: Feeding
Your houseplants need food during the winter, but less is more. If your directions say 1 tablespoon or 1 scoop we recommend cutting that in half. Feed only once a month until spring. Personally I believe organic fertilizers are better for plants.
Who knew: Using filtered or bottled water will help eliminate dead ends. The minerals in tap water will settle to the ends of the leaves and cause the dead ends.
Aphids 
Mealy Bug
4: Check for Pests
Keep an eye out for pests. They usually will attack the new growth and also hide on the underside of the leaves and along the stem. They are not harmful to humans and are easily able to control. If you do discover pests grab yourself an organic insect spray. Lay out some plastic under the pot and start spraying at the bottom of the plant.
Spray the foliage on the underside and then on top, working your way up. Your treatments may take several applications 7 - 10 days apart. The sooner you discover those pests, the easier it is to get under control, so check your plants often.
5: Wait to Repot
If you feel your plant needs to be repotted into a bigger container, it’s best to wait to late winter or early spring. Longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures are more conducive to root expansion. Choose a container that is 4 – 6 inches larger than the existing pot. When choosing a pot the saucer is important. You want at least 2” of space between the saucer edge and the bottom of the pot.
Alternative idea: If you cannot find a matching saucer, check out Mahoney’s clear plastic “Super Saucers” – they “disappear” under the pot.
Feeding Wild Birds in the Winter
After the leaves have all fallen and the snow sets in, food becomes scarce for our feathered friends. If you’ve never noticed just how many types of birds there are in your backyard put out a bird feeder (or two) and they will literally “flock” to it! I can’t tell you just how wonderful it is to wake up on a chilly January morning with a cup of tea in hand, and look outside my kitchen window to see the fluster of activity. Being connected to nature in such a way is so rewarding and enriching. With so many species of birds here in New England, there are a variety of feeders available to accommodate each one. I have 4 different types of feeders myself and I realize this may sound a little overwhelming for a first-time bird enthusiast, so let me give you the breakdown for each type.
The tube with the large holes has lots of perches to accommodate a number of birds at one time and is great for medium to large mixed seeds and nuts. This type of feeder will attract assorted sparrows and finches, chickadees, titmice …maybe larger birds like grackles and European starlings, as well.
The thistle tube feeder is perfect for goldfinches. It also has many perches for up to 6 birds at one time. They absolutely adore thistle! Goldfinches are bright yellow in the summer and will gradually turn a more muted shade for winter plumage. I find goldfinches to be such sweet, happy little birds. Anytime I see or hear them they put a smile on my face.
The shelf feeder is by far, in my opinion, the best. It is made of clear plastic and affixes to a window with suction cups. I love it because not only can the squirrels not access it, but it makes it possible to view a wild bird from just a few feet away! I use straight up black oil sunflower seeds. This particular seed attracts the widest variety of birds. I had the larger version of this feeder and the mourning doves kept plopping themselves down in it for 20 minutes at a time, pecking away and dominating the feeder, so I eventually got the smaller one that they couldn’t fit into.
From left, Thistle feeder and Suet Feeder with Downy Woodpecker
The suet feeder is ideal for woodpeckers and nuthatches. The downey woodpecker is actually very common around here and I hear one occasionally at our Brighton location. The chickadees will also visit this feeder.
You may have noticed I haven’t mentioned Blue Jays or Cardinals. That is because these birds are too big for these types of feeders. If you would like to provide a feeder for them, a platform feeder is best. They are also easy to make. I personally just scatter seed on the ground for them; and the doves.
There is also another bird I find in my yard in the winter, the dark-eyed junco. A cute little gray bird with a white belly. You may find species of birds that I haven’t even mentioned, depending where you live. I definitely recommend investing in a bird identification book. It has been very helpful not only at home, but also during my trips to Mt. Auburn Cemetery, one of my favorite places to bird-watch. Many migratory birds pass through there during different times of the year, and they have a chalkboard for visitors to post their bird spottings! But I digress…..
I also want to mention that squirrels are very persistent and clever when it comes to birdfeeders, so I just want to warn you up front to make sure you find a spot where they cannot climb or jump to the feeder. If you are using a shepard’s hook, make sure to use a squirrel baffle with it.
Mahoneys does provide most of these items, but be sure to call first for availability, as it varies from store to store.
If you have additional questions or are interested in talking about birds further, please feel free to give me a call at the Brighton store 617.787.8885 I would love to hear from you! I always enjoy a good chat with a fellow bird lover.
Happy Birding!!
Photo credits: Top by JWThompson; next by CSeeman; thistle by Jimmy Smith; woodpecker by Dawn Huczek; and squirrel by JillClardy.
