Caring for Roses

Location

As a rule, roses need 2/3 to full sun to perform at their best. There are many varieties in our shade tolerant rose section that that perform well with 4-6 hours of light. These roses are usually climbers of shrub roses. Roses like good drainage and won’t tolerate standing water or wet heavy soil. Once established, roses are drought tolerant having deep roots to find water. The average rose will grow at least 3-4 feet wide so give them this space to grow. Proper spacing allows for good air circulation which will reduce the likelihood of disease.

Planting

If your rose is dry, water it well before you start the planting process. To plant, start by digging a hole deep enough to cover the crown of the rose and two to three times as wide as the pot. Remove the rose from the pot and place it in the hole. Amend the soil that was removed from the hole with an equal amount of good compost and backfill the hole around the rose. The soil level should cover the graft of the rose by two inches. Water well. So that’s what you are supposed to do, but I like the keep the graft above the ground so I can see if new growth is coming from the root or the graft. If you do this it is important to mulch the crown heavily in winter to protect it. Non grafted roses on their own roots should be planted even with existing soil.

Fertilizing

Fertilize your new rose two weeks after planting with the fertilizer of your choice, and regularly thereafter that according to the directions of the fertilizer you choose. Use natural fertilizers for most or all of your fertilization. They are better for the soil and therefore better for the plant. A little synthetic fertilizer is o.k. but too much promotes fast growth that is weak and attracts pests. There are many good fertilizers listed below in recommended products. Stop fertilizing at the end of July so that the plant can ready itself for winter. Don’t deadhead flowers from late august on so the plant can form hips. This signals roses that it is time to rest.

Winter Protection

Roses need to be protected during the winter to ensure their health for the next year. The crown of the rose should be covered with soil or mulch to keep it at or near 32 degrees. The canes of taller roses can be covered several feet with salt marsh hay and/or burlap. These products are used because they breath; don’t use plastic. Pre-made covers can be purchased for covering roses. Cover plant only for the harshest weather in November, December, January, and February. If the weather is mild (lows near 32, highs over 40) in November and February don’t keep roses covered. Plants covered in warmer weather can become diseased. Buy salt marsh hay before you need it because nurseries will be selling Christmas trees when you need to apply it.

Pruning

Keeping roses full and productive requires pruning. Anytime during the year you should prune out branches that are dead, dying, or weak and spindly. In the spring prune most roses down to about 1/3 of their previous height to encourage a full even looking plant. Never prune roses this hard in the fall. When cutting a cane do so just above an outward facing bud so that branches don’t grow inward and cross each other. To encourage new flowers prune off spent bloom at the first leaf with five leaflets or lower if you want a more compact plant. At the end of the season leave the rose hips that form after the last flowers on the plant. This tells the plant that it has done its job and can go to sleep for the winter. Out of control plants can be cut by a third or so in fall if needed. If you are growing a rose as a climber or a rambler prune it to the height or length you want it. Roses left to grow will eventually need some hard pruning to remove old unproductive wood. When pruning make cuts at an angle towards the ground. Always use bypass pruners, never anvil pruners which can crush stems. Always sanitize your pruners when pruning a new plant so that you don’t spread any diseases.