Annuals

Petunia Budworm Problem - Updated

Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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This is an update of a post from last summer (My Petunia Budworm Problem) because the annoying flower-eating pests called budworms are back this year with a vengeance.

Petunia BudwormPhoto source and for more information: Penn State

My petunias weren’t flowering well.

Knowing that petunias don’t like the heat, my first thought was to blame the few hot days we had. Then, because petunias like regular feedings, I wondered if perhaps I didn’t feed them enough before I went on vacation.

But when I looked more closely I noticed chew marks in the tender foliage of flower. Then I saw black dots* all over the foliage. Finally, I found the insect - the infamous petunia budworm.

If you see similar damage on your petunias, look for the budworm caterpillars during dusk when their larvae are most active, or during daylight hours, check around the base of the plant where they hide. They start really small and get bigger as they get older.

The bad news is budworm caterpillars can devour all your petunia flowers in a couple days. The good news is that there are two treatments that work great.

How to treat for Petunia Budworm

Petunia Budworm Treatment Options: Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew (left) and Eight - Yard and Garden (right) by BonidePetunia Budworm Treatment Options: Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (left) and Eight - Yard and Garden (right) both by Bonide

If you catch it on the early side, a good remedy is a spray called Captain Jack’s Organic Deadbug Brew by Bonide. It’s a good solution for lots of bug problems, so not a bad thing to keep on hand.

If your petunias are really infested, another option is called Eight Yard and Garden, also by Bonide. Eight is water-based, but not organic. It works a little bit quicker, but in most cases Capt Jack’s is just fine. Whichever you choose you’ll need to re-apply every couple weeks or as needed.

Then try to feed your petunias with some water-soluble fertilizer. Do this and your petunias will bounce back to full bloom in about three days. Neat, huh?

Preventing Budworm from Returning

The budworm can survive winter as a pupa in the soil unless the soil freezes deeply. So if you overwinter potted plants in a protected area, such as garage, you might be helping the buggers survive. If you are going to keep potted geraniums or other perennial host plants between seasons, remove the soil to eliminate pupae and repot the plants before overwintering.

*FYI: The black dots are little budworm poops.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON BEES AND CAPTAIN JACK’S DEADBUG BREW

This product is toxic to bees exposed to treatment for 3 hours following treatment. Do not apply this pesticide to blooming, pollen-shedding or nectar-producing parts of plants if bees may forage on the plants during this time period. It is best to apply late in the afternoon when bees are not active. This product is toxic to aquatic invertebrates. To protect the environment, do not allow pesticide to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters or surface waters. Applying this product in calm weather when rain is not predicted for the next 24 hours will help to ensure that wind or rain does not blow or wash pesticide off the treatment area.

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
The Guy  Mike’s 41 and married with 3 kids - a boy 12 , a girl 7 and a boy 5.  The Gardener  Mike loves all gardening but says he’s known for the veggies.

We have the NEW 'Black Velvet' Petunia!

Written bySara DiPalermo
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Black Velvet PetuniaBlack Velvet PetuniaI am totally excited about the new black petunia. (It’s actually a super dark purple, but looks black until you’re up very close). I know it seems kind of, well, dark for spring and summer, but the truth is it is actually quite versatile! We have planted it with a few different combinations of colors here in our Brighton store and it looks amazing!

Planter 1: Scotch Broom, Nemesia, Diascia, Vinca, Ajuga and Black PetuniasPlanter 1: Scotch Broom, Nemesia, Diascia, Vinca, ‘Black Scallop’ Ajuga and ‘Black Velvet’ Petunias

The first combination we did was with yellow scotch broom, which I like using in planters as the central vertical element. It has such a soft yet structured quality to it. Yellow and white nemesia and diascia create a balance between light and dark. I also added a light green vinca vine to spill over the container. I prefer it over potato vine for its smaller leaf scale and because it won’t dominate the planter. Lastly, I added some ‘black scallop’ ajuga which has beautiful, glossy dark purple foliage. I like to use perennials, herbs and shrubs often in my annual plantings for added foliage color and texture.

Planter 2: Mandevilla, 'Blackie' Potato Vine, Nemesia and 'Black Velvet' PetuniasPlanter 2: Mandevilla, ‘Blackie’ Potato Vine, Nemesia and ‘Black Velvet’ Petunias

Another planter we created here is an elegant terra cotta urn with a mandevilla as the focal point. It looks quite stunning with the ‘black velvet’ petunias and ‘blackie’ potato vine as an under planting. There is also some raspberry-colored nemesia which adds another shade of pink to the mix.

As long as you choose some colors on the opposite side of the color wheel to balance it, the black petunia has many possibilities and looks very pretty. What interesting and unique combination will you create?

Sara DiPalermo - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Meet Sara DiPalermo, blog contributor and the greenhouse buyer and merchandiser at the Mahoney’s Brighton location. About Sara Sara grew up in Woburn and has 17 years experience in the garden center and floral industry around Boston. She is passionate about her job and loves...

How to Plant a Mixed Container

If you are new to making container gardens, it’s easy to feel intimidated. So, specifically for beginners, we’ve simplified the plant selection part: Choose 3 different plants: one for “height” another for “spill” and the third for “fill”. It’s also a good idea to select plants that have similar light and water requirements. My suggestion is to come in (ideally on a weekday when the place is a little less busy) and have one of our staff help you select plants with similar growing habits. We have lots to choose from. To this simple example, we’ve selected one Dracena for height, one pot of Algerian Ivy for spill, and one pot of pink Impatiens for fill.

  1. Select Your Pot

    Take into consideration the size of your plants as they matures – it’s fine to plant close side to side, but allow plenty of room for the roots to grow down. The pot shown here is a plastic pot made in Italy by Marchioro. Marchioro have has a nice drainage feature (explained step 5) but ceramic, terra cotta, iron, fiberglass containers are all good choices.

  2. Drainage

    When roots are allowed to sit in water they form “root rot”. To avoid root rot, choose a container with drainage holes, or a container that allows you to add holes. 

  3. Gravel

    Another way to prevent roots from drowning is to add a few inches of loose gravel.  The gravel prevents the roots from sitting in excess water. Marchioro containers have a smart design: their drainage holes are elevated from the bottom of the container – excess water is held in reserve and made available to the plant later – basically a timed-release self watering container.

  4. Choose a Potting Mix

    Always start with a good quality potting soil – never garden soil. We’re partial to our Mahoney’s Professional Potting Mix which we formulated to have the right blend of peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, and starter nutrients.

  5. Potting Mix Depth

    Most likely you will be planting different size plants with different size root system. Start by adding enough mix so that when you place in the biggest plant, the top of the soil is about 1 inch below the rim.

  6. Preparing Roots

    Before planting, gently remove each plant from its plastic pot and “massage” the roots to loosen them from their compacted pot shape. The goal is to allow the roots freedom to grow wide and deep. Then place the plant in the container. We’re placing the Dracena (height) in the center because we will use “spill” and “fill” on all sides.

  7. More Mix

    Add more mix so that the top of the root ball of the spill plants also sits 1-inch below the container rim.

  8. Divide Spiller

    Remove the Algerian Ivy from its pot and gentle divide the root ball into two halves.

  9. Planting the Spill

    Place one half in one corner, and the other half in the opposite corner.

  10. The Fill

    Remove the Impatiens from its pot. We used a pretty big 8” container, so this time we’re dividing the plant into four.

  11. Planting Fill

    Place each quarter root ball so that the Dracena is equally surrounded.

  12. Checking balance

    Look at the container from all sides to make sure there are no empty areas.

  13. One more time add mix

    Gently press in more mix to ensure the roots are firmly surrounded by mix. Make sure to leave about 1’ of space below the rim to prevent water from spilling over the edges.

  14. Add Slow release fertilizer

    For the best flowering performance, “top-dress” the plants with a handful of Osmocote slow-release fertilizer.

  15. Osmocote will get absorbed by the plant a little at a time whenever you water.

  16. Water thoroughly, so that the soil is evenly wet.

 

Poinsettias - Yes, they come in Blue

Written byLayanee DeMerchant
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The poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherrima, has become synonymous with the Christmas holiday.  Since its introduction to the United States in the 1800’s by Joel Poinsett, the first U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, it has evolved from its humble beginnings as a rather rangy plant in basic scarlet red to the wide variety of compact, colorful choices available today at the garden center. 

Poinsettias do contain a milky sap which can be a skin irritant.  While the sap is irritating, it is not considered poisonous.  Many studies have been done concerning the effects of ingesting poinsettia leaves.  You can read about them here.  

It is fairly common knowledge that the colored petals are really modified leaves called bracts. The actual flower is in the very center of the colored bracts and it is a greenish yellow cup-shaped structure arranged in a cluster. Each is called a cyathia.  The cyathia contains both male and female flowers. The red stamens, which become visible as the plant matures, are the male flowers and the female flowers are hidden within the capsule.  Breeding and hybridization programs have resulted in a much-improved poinsettias in both shape and color.  It is now possible to pick out a plant in a full spectrum of red ranging from burgundy through orange and on to clear pink.  There are cultivars available in an impressionistic Monet marked white with hot pink, marbled pink and white, peach, and even blue.  Well, the blue is a result of watercolors applied to white but blue is available and it is up to you to decide if it belongs on your table or if it is a crime against nature.  I did ask the staff at Mahoney’s how the blue and purple poinsettias were received by shoppers and I was told that they were ‘flying off the tables’. I did notice a child begging her Mom to purchase a blue one.  We all love blue flowers since they are rare, but a blue poinsettia? I am in the ‘crime against nature’ camp.  Red is the most popular color sold, and over 70% of shoppers choose it.  But it is a high energy color and I find that I do get tired of it. Red poinsettias can also be a decorating challenge with some decors, but white poinsettias are available and white is always truly elegant. Mahoney’s poinsettia collectionMany poinsettias find their way to a Christmas party as a hostess gift.  If you do decide to pick up a few poinsettias this season, please don’t take them outside without a sleeve.  A sleeve stapled at the top will protect your plant against the cold. Never leave them in a cold vehicle. Poinsettias are quite cold-sensitive and will suffer after just a few minutes of freezing temperatures.  They prefer bright light and even watering (water when the soil surface is just dry to the touch), and warm temperatures - in the 65 F - 70 F degree range.  A bit lower at night is fine.  

It is possible to keep your poinsettia indefinitely.  They are actually a shrub in their native habitat.  Whether you will get them to bloom again is another story since they need 14 hours of continuous darkness for eight to ten weeks in order to produce colorful bracts.  You will have to decide if this plant is worth the extra trouble or, if it belongs in your compost heap.  

Thinking Outside the Mum

Written bySara DiPalermo
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Fall has arrived, and along with it, the rich, jewel-toned foliage and flowers associated with autumn that I eagerly anticipate every year. If you haven’t guessed already, fall is my very favorite time of year. Is it because I am a native New Englander? Perhaps. There’s definitely something to be said about a season that tourists the world over come to see!  

Now I realize that the mum will forever be the quintessential fall flower of New England. However, with so many other beautiful, colorful options arriving daily by the truckload, I set out to inspire customers with plantings that showcase the diverse selection of material available for autumn. Evergreens, annuals, perennials and even herbs all work well together, and below I suggest some of my favorites. 

Evergreens 
Any type of cypress works great. They range in color from blues, greens and yellows (like Hinoki, Boulevard, and Goldmop/Thread).  The Arborvitae variety ‘Rheingold’ is gorgeous! 

Herbs 
Cold-tolerant herbs include the many types of thymes and also sage. These particular herbs work so well because they add texture AND color.

Annuals 
Cabbages and kales look great with just about any combination. Million Bells are offered in an array of colors, too many to name.  Ornamental peppers come in very festive colors and have either green or purple/black foliage. By far, the best and most cold-tolerant annual are pansies. Pansies thrive in the cooler weather and don’t mind a light frost. There are varieties available that even return in the spring.

Perennials 
Ajuga, Sedums, grasses (Hakonechloa is quite lovely) and of course, Heuchera. Heucheras have THE prettiest foliage and look fabulous with just about everything. Check out ‘Peach Melba’, ‘Licorice’ and ‘Key Lime’. Perennials can be used in the same manners as annuals, or planted in the ground to return next spring.

 

Come to our Brighton store and see these specially designed plantings by Pam Rajpal, created for our “Thinking Outside the Mums” seminar.   We hope these inspire you to “think outside the mum”!

Curb Gardens that Accommodate Parking

Written bySusan Harris
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When I last showed off some of my favorite curbside gardens a commenter wrote to complain.  “Sure, those tall plantings are great if you don’t have to, um, PARK and get out of your car.”  True enough, so I promised to follow up with curbside gardens that WOULD work with parked cars.

And here ya go. First up, in a sunny spot along a busy street with parking, you see some liriope, another tough-looking short grass, some of the new petunia varieties that bloom like crazy without dead-heading, and the silver foliage of the Licorace plant (Helichrysum petiolare ‘Silver Mist’). All are super drought-tolerant except those petunias.

And for shade, how about good old hostas with liriope (for evergreen color) and strategically placed flagstones for human passage? Plants don’t get much lower-maintenance than these two workhorses.

My Petunia Budworm Problem

Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Are your petunias doing well this year? If not why?

My petunias weren’t looking very floriferous. Weak in the blossom department.

Knowing that petunias don’t like the heat, my first thought was that the summer heat got to them. Also, they like regular feedings, and maybe I didn’t feed them enough in the weeks before I went away.

But then I looked more closely and noticed that the few flowers that were there were eaten with those infamous black dots all over the foliage.

Finally, I found the insect - the petunia budworm - and remembered that it caused the same problem last year, too. This caterpillar will devour petunia flowers in a couple days, so most people think it’s just time to give up on them when in fact, mine came back to life in a couple days. I sprayed the petunias with Bonide’s Captain Jack Organic Spray and fed them with some water-soluble fertilizer and they bounced back to full bloom in about three days.

Since then, I’ve had about 20 people come into the Chelmsford garden center with the same problem, so I’m posting this “fyi” for people who are about to give up on their petunias: They may not be lost after all; check for the symptoms.

Photo source and for more information: Penn State.

Sara's Summer Containers

Written bySara DiPalermo
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I always try to get people to think outside the box by showing them different options to use in their container plantings. That means not just annuals, but groundcovers, perennials… even houseplants can be used to create unique and colorful combinations. The best part is that afterwards, some plants can either be planted in the ground or brought inside to enjoy through the winter, giving you much more bang for your buck.

So my colleague Maria and I created four summer arrangements at our Brighton store and gave them fun names, hoping to inspire you all to try something different. Here you go.

SoCal, for full sunSoCal, for full sun

We were “California dreaming” when we planted the lantana in this box, where it grows into a large bush in the southern part of the state. This combo also includes verbena, licorice plant and petunias.

The Charms of Dublin, for part to full shadeThe Charms of Dublin, for part to full shade

What epitomizes Ireland better than shamrocks and ferns? (Besides leprechauns of course!) Both can be brought indoors and used as houseplants in the fall. Also included are lobelia, fuschia and rex begonias. Begonias also double as house plants.

Bombay Nights, for part sun, part shadeBombay Nights, for part sun, part shade

These colors reminded us of the hot nights and beautiful saris worn in India. If planted in the ground, the lysmachia will return in the spring. Also included are cordyline, setcreasea, and new guinea impatiens.

Aztec Gold, for full sunAztec Gold, for full sun

These plants worship the sun, just as the Aztecs did thousands of years ago. We paired annuals and perennials to create this unique combination. Also used here are the perennials rumex and heucheral; and annuals cordyline, calibrachoa, euphorbia and verbena.

Tips for Growing Perfect Annuals

Carrie planting geraniums

Here are five things to remember in order to produce the best looking annual garden.

  1. Wait for the weather

    Don’t plant your annuals too soon. Most annuals cannot be planted until after the last frost.

  2. Don’t skimp on soil

    You’ll need a good soil mix whether you’re planting in the ground or in a container. Annuals will grow bigger and healthier with an adequate soil blend. Try our own Garden Lover’s Premium potting soil.

  3. Feed them often

    Your annuals will need fertilizer. It is a proven fact that fertilized annuals will produce more flowers and grow to be fuller and more vibrant. You’ll want that full look sooner in your planters or window boxes. There are two types of fertilizers to use with your annuals. Use a time release granular fertilizer to ease the transition of re-potting or planting. Osmocote is a great product for such. Two to three weeks after planting, use a water-soluble fertilizer weekly to maintain the beauty of your annuals. The Neptune’s Harvest Line are perfect water soluble products which are also organic.

  4. Get the light right

    Be sure to pay attention to the recommended lighting conditions for your annuals. Annuals not given enough sun will be less vibrant and lively. Annuals given too much sun can look dried up and yellow at the leaves. Be sure to read the recommended amount of sun on the tag provided.

  5. Water Wisely

    Watering is crucial. You don’t need to water everyday simply for the sake of watering. When your annuals need water, you’ll know it. Simply feel the soil to see whether or not it is damp. Pay special attention to days where the sun may be especially strong as your annuals may require more water than usual.

Hardy Mums

Revive your tired containers with vibrant fall color. We carry premium quality mums available in a vast selection of color and size to transform your yard to a colorful fall look.

Our hardy mum varieties include different flower styles such as the traditional cushion mums, daisy, spider, scoop and Belgian. Our color selection ranges from oranges and bronzes to beautiful pinks and purples. Minimal care is required for the fall season. Mums will bloom well into the cold weather, giving your yard a colorful look for the fall season. Try complimenting your fall mums with our line of colorful frost-tolerant annuals!