Edibles

Tomato Mania

Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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The warm-crop planting season is finally here and we can safely plant our crops and yes, our tomatoes.  I love this time of year because my wife and I get together with the kids and pick our favorite tomato varieties to grow, and of course some new ones we may not have tried before. One of my favorite things is slicing up a bunch of different tomatoes (different shapes, sizes, colors, etc.) and tasting with friends. The favorites are usually written down to remember to plant next year.  Over the years we’ve come up with a delicious list.  One question I often get is, “what’s a good tomato?”  I’ve got to answer their question with a question: “good for what?  Salads, sauces, salsa, sandwich slicer or maybe a good cherry or grape.  I have favorites for all occasions.

These are some of my favorites. Try some new ones this year – you may be pleasantly surprised.

Super sweet 100

What a great cherry! I like to call this one the ‘’babysitter’’ because it produces so many small red sweet cherries it will keep the kids busy for hours when you say, “go pick them”. This plant is very vigorous – don’t be confused by the size of the fruit, this is a huge plant and it will take up a lot of space. It’s not great in small pots, as it will outgrow them quickly, but that’s doesn’t make me love it any less.  I strongly recommend it, even if you don’t have kids to entertain.

Sun gold

This one is probably the sweetest cherry I’ve come across.  If you haven’t tried this one, it’s worth it. A little bit on the orange side so it adds a different color to salads. It’s on the low acidic end, too.  

Brandywine

Now this is what summer is about! This old Amish heirloom comes in pink, red and yellow – and they’re all great.  Who knows which is the original, but it doesn’t matter when you taste these. It’s not a heavy producer, so I make sure to grow more than enough. But man what a taste!!  Slice those babies up with some buffalo mozzarella and a little pepper, creamy Italian dressing, maybe some fresh basil (I don’t like balsamic…too much heart burn). Yumm!!! If you’ve grown this one and want to try something new try Burpee’s ‘Brandy Boy’.  It’s a cross between Brandywine and Big Boy. I got a nice yield with that great taste, plus it produces much earlier in the season.  

Big Beef

This hybrid produces nice large, round, blemish-free tomatoes.  But don’t confuse this with commercial varieties that are bred to look ripe before their time. This Big Boy is very disease-resistant. So if you have had problems with disease or cracking try this one, it won’t disappoint you.

San Marzano

This is the plum tomato that all others are judged by.  It’s larger than roma, and tastes better according to my Italian relatives and friends. This variety is open pollinated like roma so you can grow it with other tomatoes without cross pollination (which can result in different tomatoes than what you intended).

Juliet

A large grape or small plum, this is a nice sweet variety that I love in salads, although you may want to slice them in half for the kids because they are slightly larger than your typical grape tomato. Nonetheless they are a nice sweet tomato with a long shelf life.  

Prudence purple

This is another great heirloom I love to grow. These big purplish or dark red tomatoes are another great tasting tomato like Brandywine. A great one for any occasion.  I love mixing these in with a caprese dish. They are really big and meaty and they taste great together.

Ramapo

This one was a surprise. We tried Rampo for the first time last year and it was great.  It’s an old reintroduction of a Jersey favorite.  Medium to large fruit with a great yield, this tomato will please all your uses. In fact I remember tossing a bunch in when making a sauce and they were not to watery. They’ve become a staple in my August salads.

Whopper

This is one big, big, nice tomato. Wait ‘til you see it – size alone is reason enough to grow the ‘Whopper’. You’ll agree, it definitely deserves a spot in your veggie garden. 

Mortgage lifter

This is a big pink or maybe more red tomato that has a heavy yield of large low acid and low seed fruit. But the best part is the story of its origin. It was developed by radiator repairman, M.C.“Radiator Charlie” Byles. Without any experience in breeding, Byles made a successful cross of four of the largest tomatoes he could find - German Johnson, Beefsteak, an Italian variety, and an English variety. With the money he made selling the tomatoes he ended up paying off his mortgage, hence the name.

Lemon boy

If you want yellow, here it is. This medium-sized fruit is great tasting, as yellow as a lemon and has a heavy yield to boot. I love how they really brighten up a salad,

Jet star

This probably is a tomato you may have passed by or maybe you’ve grown it before, but a nice medium fruit sized fruit that is low in acid (you don’t have to be yellow to be low acid).  This plant is a perfect size for those upside down tomato planters, it won’t take down the house when you water it and it also makes a great vine ripe bunch like in the groceries store.

This is just a short list of our ‘Uncle Mike’ varieties that we grow in our growing range in Woburn. We have selected a range of hybrids, grapes, cherries, heirlooms, dwarf, and lots of others varieties.  We also buy a lot from other local quality growers so we have even more of a selection for you, and as we find new ones, well we’ve got to check them out as well right.  All our tomatoes are locally grown so there is less of a chance to get late blight which is a disease that has been a problem in the last few years.

Tomato varieties vary store by store, week by week. (Actually, on a busy day varieties can sometimes change hour to hour).

Beefmaster Beefsteak Better Boy Better Bush
Big Beef Big Boy Black Krim Boxcar Willie
Brandywine Bush Cahmpion Carolina Gold Celebrity
Cherokee Purple Early Girl German Johnson Grape
Green Zebra Health Kick Hillbilly Husky Gold
Husky Red Jetstar Juliet Lemonboy
Marglobe Moby Mortgage Lifter Mr. Stripey
Patio Pink Girl Ramapo Roma Plum
Rutgers San Marzano Sugary Super Bush
Superfantastic Supersonic Super Sweet 100 Sun Gold
Sun Sugar Sweet’n’neat Sweet Olive Tiny Tim
Totem Viva Italia Whitewonder Whopper
Windowbox Roma Yellow Pear    
'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
The Guy  Mike’s 41 and married with 3 kids - a boy 12 , a girl 7 and a boy 5.  The Gardener  Mike loves all gardening but says he’s known for the veggies.

It's lettuce planting time!

Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Here we go, off to another slow start to spring. But that’s ok with me, because these cold days and nights bring me to one of my favorite crops of the veggie season: lettuce and other leafy greens. Nothing beats fresh picked lettuce – the taste and texture is so much better than store bought. And it’s easy to grow, either in the ground or in containers. Plus this stuff loves the cold, so you need to take advantage of the season. Actually lettuce tends to “bolt” (stretches and goes to seed) when planted too late, so don’t procrastinate!

Any container will do!Any container will do!

Planting lettuce in containers – Start with any 10- to 12-inch pot that’s least 4 inches deep. It doesn’t need to be fancy (unless you like fancy, in which case pick a lovely pot that complements your outdoor décor and the color green). Good quality potting soil makes a huge difference, so don’t cheap out – and remember, topsoil or regular dirt will not work!  The just pop in 4 to 6 plants in a 12-inch pot and you’re off!

Planting lettuce in the ground - Lettuce is an efficient use of garden space. I place plants in a row about 6-inches apart, with the next row about 12-inches away. Iceberg and other larger varieties may take a little more room. When the plants start to grow close together I take out every other head to make more room to grow. Again, starting with good quality soil rich in organic matter is key.

Fertilizer – lettuce and greens typically are “heavy feeders” (like to be fertilized often). When first planting I mix organic Espoma Garden-tone into the soil, and then as the plants grow I add Neptune Harvest Organic Blend Fertilizer when watering. Try to feed directly onto the soil without touching the leaves. There are other quality fertilizers that will work, but I always do both feedings because it really pushes them along well.

Fresh lettuce tastes way better than store bought! Fresh lettuce tastes way better than store bought!

Pest problems – lettuce and other greens don’t have a lot of problems at this time of year.   Most insects aren’t out yet, and there are no major disease problems. The only insect problems I’ve ever had are aphids, and they’re easy to deal with. Every so often inspect under leaves. I usually use an organic approach such as insecticidal soap or Bon Neem. Start spraying every 5 to 7 days. Don’t let them get out of control because they get harder to deal with as the plant grows and inner leaves become harder to reach. Again, aphids are rare, but it’s something to keep an eye out for ‘cause there’s nothing worse than aphids swimming in the salad dressing. That said, also watch out for over watering; either from mother nature (which is uncontrollable) or yourself. While lettuce plants like an even moist soil, too much water will lead to botrytis, a rot at the crown of the plant.

Harvesting your lettuce – One of the great things about lettuce is how fast you can start to enjoy eating it. You can enjoy your first harvest in as little as 2 to 4 weeks. Remember, you can pick lettuce at any size – it tastes the same, it’s just smaller.  As they start to crowd each other out, just thin out a couple heads, enjoy your fresh salad, and the rest will grow on for another supper. I usually plant too much every year, and inevitably get a little sick of salad towards the end of the season. But then I miss it when it’s gone and I look forward to it the next time I can plant. So don’t wait, take advantage of this pre-tomato growing season and plant that lettuce; your rewards will be palatable.

The Uncle Mike's Gang on Facebook

Written bySusan Harris
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Uncle Mike’s brand herbs and vegetables actually looks like fun to me, from just perusing their new photo album on our Facebook page.  My favorite is the album of Uncle Mike’s Staff and Greenhouse, but check out the edibles here and some lovely flower photos, too.  All photos by Rebecca Rondeau, who’s all thumb’s up in the collage below.

More staffers in this collagee are Eva Zelenka on the upper left and BK Noonan in the second row.

Below you see Tracey Martin and Ryan Wholey in the top row.  Then the foursome below are (L-R) Ryan Wholey, Jim McGinn, Jeff Storry and Hy Sam.  The behatted fellow below is Uncle Mike himself - Mike Mahoney - looking a lot like his logo self, doncha think?  What art work!

Vegetable Garden Review

Written byLayanee DeMerchant
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October is a good month to review the season’s vegetable garden for both style and performance.  This was the first year in a long time that I grew vegetables in raised beds.  Nothing fancy, just a mounding of the soil, which creates a generous amount of loosened soil.  It also allows the soil to warm up more quickly and there’s excellent drainage for vegetable growth.  The raised beds are also pleasing to the eye and no vegetable garden needs to be ugly.There is beauty in symmetry.  I do plant vegetables in two different areas, one inside a fence and the other, which holds the corn crop, the asparagus bed, pumpkins, squash and the bulk of the tomatoes, in more of a field setting.  Most people have smaller gardens due to time and space constraints and the smaller, fenced garden is the one in review here.  Other than the raised beds, I did add a brick edging, mainly because it makes the small strip of lawn easier to mow.It is essential to make maintenence a bit easier, since we’re all so very busy with the other demands of life.  I did find that the raised beds seemed to make a difference in production.  The beds were pleasing to the eye and I’ll continue to use them.  I did add quite a bit of compost to each bed.  At least two wheelbarrows full mixed with a granular organic fertilizer were added to each four by twelve-foot area. Overall, this system was very satisfying.

I grew a variety of vegetables, including garlic, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, squash (both yellow and zucchini), beets, carrots, parsnips (these are still in the ground), Swiss chard, basil for edging and eating, and green beans.  It sounds like a lot but you can see from the pictures that this is not a huge space.  It’s about 12 by 60 and plants were spaced close together.  In addition to the vegetables, I added calendula and marigolds for companion planting.  I’ve found that the flowers not only add color but they attract beneficial insects that prey on problem insects. 

Most of the vegetables grew very well this year.  The tomatoes provided a bumper crop that seemed to be in compensation for last year’s disappointment of few fruit and the disease problems of late blight. The cucumbers were great and next year I need a better system for them to climb.  They were on the upright green tutuer and it was just not big enough.  My squash plants were healthy but the yellow squash did not produce many fruit.  I think this was because of the variety and I’ll seek out another for next year.  The Swiss chard continues to produce and late plantings of lettuce are ready for picking now and should continue into the late fall.The parsnips are looking lush but I’ve pulled a few and the roots are on the small side.  I’m sure this is because I did not water them enough during the dry period of August.  We did have some dry spells this season and while I know watering is most important, sometimes it just doesn’t get done.  Parsnips are best left in the ground until after the first frost.  The cold causes the starch in the roots to convert to sugar and the parsnips will be sweeter.  Carrots also become sweeter with the cold weather.   The beets were great.  Have you tried Golden Chiogga beets?  If not, plant some next year.  They are not only sweet and delicious; they are beautiful to look at, too. 

In all, this season was a great one for the vegetable garden.  I’ll try a few different varieties of vegetables next year and it’s always fun to add something you’ve never grown before.  This year it was tiger melons, which were beautiful but had a melon flavor with no sweetness.  Not so good.I’m still waiting for a frost.  It is hard to tell if it’s anticipation or dread, but frost does signal the end of the growing cycle. It also signals that it’s time to, once again, plant the garlic. The cycle continues. What was your garden’s star performer this year? 

All about canning, freezing, and a certain gardener-crabber

Written bySusan Harris
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Does your dining room look like this? Yeah, mine, either. But for my friend Cheryl in the Northern Neck of Virginia, this is just the beginning of the putting up she and her hubby are up to their elbows in this time of year. Pretty impressive to me, having never canned or preserved any foodstuff in my whole life. (Okay, and barely having grown any food until recently.)

And check out their stash of Brunswick stew, as of almost a month ago.  I remember this delectable, old-fashioned dish famously served in the taverns of Colonial Williamsburg. My family adored it and we’d go out of our way to stop off and get some on the way home from the beach. I tried some of Cheryl’s (actually made by her manly, football-coaching husband) and it was deelish!

Above you see just part of the garden where all this food comes from (minus the chicken in that stew, which they acquire in the usual, modern way). 

I remembered Cheryl’s impressive canning operation the other day when I received some recommendend national websites on the subject from the University of Maryland. They’re all listed below and to beautify their excellent list, how about a photo of Cheryl doing her daily checking of the crab pots? This is one of the four that she’s allowed to have along this creek, which leads to the Potomac River just about where it meets the Chesapeake Bay. Pretty glam-looking crabber, I’d say.

Canning

Freezing

General Storing of Food in pantry/refrig/freezer

Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces

You don’t need a farm to grow fresh herbs and vegetables. Plant breeders know that aside from great taste, home growers want a high yield in a small amount of space. As long as you have the right amount of sunlight, proper irrigation, and nutritious soil you can have tasty vegetables and herbs this season.

Sunlight

Both vegetables and herbs require full sun or 6 or more hours of direct outdoor sunlight per day. Without sunlight, the fruits will not ripen and the plants will be stressed. A few varieties will tolerate less sun, but they are primarily the cool season crops like lettuce and broccoli. Without the proper lighting conditions, you may want to reconsider a vegetable garden.

Water

Along with proper sunlight, regular watering is critical to your vegetable gardening. You cannot always rely on rain or overhead sprinkler systems. A thorough watering is important especially early on in the growing season, before the plants have produced fruit. Close access to a water spigot or drip system will do the trick.

Soil

Regardless of whether or not you have a good soil content, it can be enriched with nutrients and soil blends. A tasty vegetable is a direct result of quality soil. At Mahoney’s, we carry all of the necessary soil amendments for vegetable and herb gardening.

How much space does it take?

Generally speaking, vegetable gardening does take up a significant amount of space. Many vegetables have been historically known to require a large growing space in order to achieve fresh and tasty yields. This is no longer the case. Many plant breeders have been focusing their efforts on developing smaller varieties that still pack a punch.

  • Look for varieties with dwarf or patio in their name. These varieties have been bred especially for smaller spaces. They will remain smaller and more compact. Remember, just because a plant has been bred for a small space does not mean it will sacrifice its fruit size or taste.
  • Seek out vining crops that can be trained to grow upwards and save spaces. For example, opt for pole beans verses bush beans. Pole beans along with vining cucumbers and squashes will actually take up less space than their bush cousins.
  • Interplant your vegetables and herbs alongside your summer annuals and perennials. Many vegetables and herbs do hold a decorative quality that can be well integrated into your landscape as long as you are willing to maintain them throughout the season. The trick is to plant your sun-loving herbs and vegetables alongside plants which also thrive under the same conditions.

Containers

If you are really pressed for space, container gardening with vegetables and herbs is a great solution. Containers are perfect for roof decks, patios, and any other area which gets 6 or more hours of sunlight per day.

  • Make combinations of herbs or vegetables that you use often or would like to try. Most herbs and vegetables require full sun, so combining different plants is not a problem.
    • Tip

    • Try an Italian cooking garden with Sweet Basil-Flat Leaf Parsley-Rosemary
    • Or create a garden of mixed greens for fresh salads with Romaine Lettuce-Arugula-Butter Crunch lettuce-Salad Bowl lettuce
  • Don’t use invasive materials that will take over the entire container. Mint is a great example of an herb that will get too invasive and take away space from the other plants in your container garden. So, plant your mint in a separate container.
  • Seek out dwarf or patio varieties, however don’t feel limited. A 24-30” in diameter container will work fine for your container gardening including large items such as tomatoes and cucumbers. Use a smaller container with herbs, lettuces and peppers. Remember, with a contained root system the plant will remain more compact.
  • Be sure to use a suitable potting mix that will provide the right nutrients and drainage for your herbs and vegetables. Mahoney’s Premium Potting Mix works great. Also, be sure your container has proper drainage for your plants.
  • Try an earthbox! This well constructed and self-contained container system automatically replaces nutrients and moisture as needed. Its additional staking system makes growing vegetables almost too easy!

Small Space Care

  • Feed your plants in order for them to reach their maximum potential. Herbs and Vegetables are heavy feeders so bigger and tastier fruits will come with fertilizing. At Mahoney’s, we have organic and conventional solutions for your vegetables and herbs. Try Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer. As always, follow the instructions listed on the desired fertilizer.
  • Be sure to stake tomatoes and other tall vegetables often. By training your vines and tall vegetables, your plants will grow in a more manageable manner. We offer various staking and caging systems to ensure a well-supported in-ground and container garden.
  • Don’t be afraid to prune! As the summer months approach, it is common for vegetable plants to produce a lot of foliage. Cut back the foliage leaves in order for the plant to put its energy into producing fruit. Also, allow the soil of tomatoes to get drier in the fruit-bearing months. Tomato plants like a little bit of stress while producing and this will limit excessive foliage that takes up space.

Uncle Mike's Herbs and Vegetables

Uncle Mike took after his mother in his passion for growing Tomatoes & other Vegetables. He has experimented with hundreds of varieties in his own backyard and is finally ready to share that passion with the world… or the greater Boston Area for now!

The variety of Herbs & Vegetables in the Uncle Mike’s collection is ever-growing. They are grown in our Pesticide-Free Woburn Growing Facility for a top-quality product. Uncle Mike and the rest of the Mahoney Family prides itself in products like this that give our customer’s the ability to grow a wide variety of produce in their own backyard.

Blueberry Plants

Blueberries - Blueberry Plants

It is hard to deny, Blueberries are yummy. However, they are also known for their high antioxidant content which is thought to help protect the body against the damaging effects of free radicals and the chronic diseases associated with the aging process.

Blueberries are also easy to grow and are beautiful additions to your landscape. In the spring, blueberries have shiny bay-like leaves and lily-of-the-valley type flowers. Then in the fall, their leaves change from green to red and gold. In the winter, when the leaves are gone, the woody stems are a striking gold and red, offering four seasons of interest. Plus, as mentioned before, they are so yummy.

Blueberries like well-drained acidic soil, high in organic matter. They do better in soil with a pH range of 4.5-5.2. A pH outside this range can result in poor growth and yields. Blueberries require soils that drain well throughout the year, yet hold adequate moisture. Plants cannot withstand extended periods of flooding in winter or dryness in the summer. Plants need the equivalent of at least 1-2 inches of rainfall per week.

Blueberries are, to a degree, self-pollinating. Growing at least 2 varieties will optimize fruit production and increase yields. Growing different varieties also allows you fresh blueberries during different times of the summer season and it also allows you to mix their flavors. Some blueberries are sweeter, some are more tart. They make for a flavorful bite when mixed together.

Tomato Planting Tips

Tomatoes are by far the most popular home-grown fruit or vegetable. Here are some tips to help ensure that you get the most out of your Tomato plants.

  • Turn the soil in your vegetable bed and amend with organic matter. Try Coast of Maine’s Lobster compost blend. You may then want to fertilize the soil with Tomato-Tone by Espoma or Tasty Tomato by Bradfield Organics.
  • Planting your tomatoes in a different part of the garden each season is a good idea as many tomato diseases remain in your soil throughout the winter. Replace the soil in containers as well.
  • Remember, if you are container planting, the planting environment is provided entirely by you. If a series of dry hot weather ensues, your watering habits in the container must be increased to accomodate the weather. The soil and its nutrients must also be provided. Staking must be done just as often to prevent the fruit from rotting at the base of the plant.
  • Plant the tomato deep enough so the lower leaves touch the surface. This allows the planted stem to develop a larger root system and promotes a healthier plant. Once the tomato has become established, a water-soluble liquid fertilizer will increase how prolific your tomatoes will be. Try Neptune’s Harvest Organic fertilizer and use bi-weekly throughout the season.
  • Unless you have purchased a bush variety such as Better Bush or Patio tomatoes, your plants will need to be staked regardless of whether they are in a container or in the ground. At Mahoney’s, we carry a vast selection of staking options from attractive bamboo stakes to easy-maintenance tomato cages.

 

How to Start Seeds Indoors

Vegetable Seeds and Seed Starting Pots

There’s nothing fresher or tastier than herbs and veggies from your own garden. Learn everything you need to know to get started growing your own herbs and vegetables indoors.

Here’s what you need to get started.

  • Containers - peat pots, planting trays, and peat pellets work best. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it won’t dry out between waterings.
  • Seedling potting mix - you will want to use a potting soil that is designed for starting seeds. Seedling Mix is the perfect medium for germinating seeds because it’s designed to promote better root development in young plants.
  • Seeds - there are so many to choose from. For most plant varieties, plan on growing them 6-8 weeks indoors, but check packet directions for accurate growing times. Also check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground, so make sure to read the directions.
  • A place to grow - seeds need a warm place in order to germinate. After they sprout, sufficient light is critical. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it isn’t too hot or too cold.
  • A cover – if your planting tray did not come with a clear plastic lid, you can use plastic wrap to cover your finished tray.
  • Spray bottle – you’ll want a spray bottle to be able to mist your soil to keep it moist.

Now you are ready to plant your seeds. Follow these easy steps for success!

  1. Fill your planting tray or peat pots with seedling potting mix. Pre-moisten the mix with clean water. Peat pellets are fun to use if you have young children. When you add water the peat pellet transforms from a flat disc to a tall self planting pot.
  2. Place your seeds in the soil. Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot. Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see. Sprinkle 3-4 seeds over the soil in each pot. Press in or lightly cover the seeds with potting mix. Do not cover them too deeply with soil.
  3. Cover your planting tray with a clear tray lid or with clear plastic wrap. You can also place plastic wrap over the tops of individual pots if you don’t have a tray. Place the tray or pots in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Make sure that your soil always remains warm and moist.
  4. When the seeds begin to sprout, remove the plastic wrap. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight. Plants will always grow towards the sunlight.
  5. Thin or transplant the seedlings when they get 2”-3” tall and have developed true leaves. This should happen after about 2-3 weeks. Thinning is done by gently pulling up the young plant or pinching off the stem. Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow the roots to continue to develop. Lift seedlings carefully by digging them out with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots. Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.
  6. Feed with a liquid soluble plant food diluted to half strength and remember to keep your soil moist, but not soggy.
  7. When the danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings into the garden, but they must first be “hardened off”. Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2-3 hours a day. The following week, set the plants out a little longer each day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight. After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden. Remember to use a transplant fertilizer when planting them.

Planting Seeds Outdoors

After danger of frost (typically the end of May) has passed there are many seeds you can plant directly into the ground.

To begin, choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight and where the soil drains well. Prepare the soil by raking the area clear of leaves and other debris. Dig the garden to loosen the soil down to about 12”. Add a transplant fertilizer at this time.

Make planting rows with a garden trowel or a pointed object, like a pencil to make indentations in the soil. Some seeds like cucumbers may require you to make the soil into mounds to plant the seeds. Plant the seeds according to the spacing directions on the back of the seed packet. Large seeds can be planted individually. Some seeds, like carrots are quite small. These smaller seeds can be mixed with a bit of sand and sprinkled over the area. You will want to read the directions to know how deep to plant the seeds.

Attach the empty packet to a stick at the end of the row if you wish to identify what is planted there.

Water the area with a gentle flow from a watering can or hose. Be careful not to shoot the seeds right out of the soil with too strong of water pressure. Keep the garden moist (not wet), until the plants are up and growing.

Final Tip: Whether planting a seed straight into the soil or planting a transplant, don’t forget to bait for slugs. They will feast on your young plant before the plant grows big enought to feed you! Plus, keep a photo journal or a log of the weekly progress in your garden. Once the sun decides to finally return you’ll be surprised at how quickly your tiny little seedling starts mature and you can begin to harvest the fruits and vegetables of your labor.