Greenhouse
Terrariums Part 1: Introduction
Part 1 of a 3 part series
A miniature world under glass, terrariums are fascinating and remarkably easy to create and maintain! Over the next 3 posts, I will be discussing everything you need to know about designing, planting, and maintaining terrariums.

I first got into terrariums a few years ago when my colleague James starting collecting glass bell jars and specimen begonias. I must confess his enthusiasm was contagious! I now have two and have given one to my sister. Plants have been grown under glass since Victorian times. In those days they were commonly referred to as Wardian cases, named after Dr. Nathaniel Ward who first introduced society to these mini ecosystems.
It is so easy to grow terrarium plants in enclosed environments, because they need not be constantly watered or groomed. In their native habitat, plants requiring extra humidity were growing on the floor of the rainforest, in tree crevices or on rocks with a thick canopy of growth overhead. The most important things to remember about their care are to keep the containers out of direct sunlight, and to try and keep them on the cool side. Many unsuccessful growers have forgotten that the plants love humidity, but they do not like wet feet.
There are a few things to consider before planting your terrarium:
- Make sure the plants you select are the appropriate scale for the container and the other plants, otherwise it will dominate the design
- Select plants that are completely different from each other in terms of color, leaf shape and growing habit. The key is for each plant to have its own unique personality, instead of them all blending together.
- Don’t be discouraged if a plant doesn’t make it. Terrariums are a learning experience and may take a little time to gauge how much or little water is needed. Proper plant choices will minimize this issue.
Check back in a few days for part 2 of this series: Creating Open Terrariums and more great planting inspiration.
For a quick how-to: Click Here
How to Plant an Orchid
An orchid ready to be pottedOrchid
While light requirements vary depending on the variety, as a general rule most orchids prefer filtered to bright light. For long-term health, orchids do not do well in lowlight environments.
Orchid Pot: Notice the holes for air circulation and drainageOrchid Pot
Orchid roots do not like to be confined. Orchid pots have holes to allow for the best air circulation and drainage for your plants. If you prefer a standard non-perforated pot, make sure the planting medium is extremely loose.
How to Build a Terrarium
You’ll need:
Glass Terrarium ContainerGlass Container
Your terrarium needs to be large enough to contain plants, decorative elements and some “breathing space.” A large jar, fishbowl or shallow glass bowl also work great.
Small Plants: These 1” pots are perfectSmall Plants
Mini plants (as opposed to young plants) will not outgrow the size of the container. Be sure to group together plants that have the same sunlight requirements.
GravelGravel for Drainage
Inadequate water drainage is the biggest problem facing mini gardens and terrariums. A layer of small gravel will allow for your terrarium to drain.
Activated CharcoalCharcoal
A layer of charcoal will filter the water and help prevent fungi from forming in your terrarium. You’ll be glad you added this!
Potting SoilLight Potting Mix
Your soil must maintain the proper balance between water & nutrient retention, and adequate drainage. Mahoney’s Premium Potting Mix is perfect.
Decorative ElementsDecorative Elements
Think of your terrarium as a miniature landscape - use mini decorative figures such as benches, birdhouses, urns, fairies or even mini-houses. Add moss or rocks for a finished look.
How to build your terrarium
- Start off with a bottom layer of gravel,
- Add a ¼ inch layer of gardener’s charcoal.
- Next, add a layer of soil. Arrange your plants and fill the empty spaces around the roots with soil.
- Lastly, you can either do a layer of sphagnum moss or an assortment of other botanicals. I prefer to use lots of different things to add texture, color and visual interest. Some of my many favorites include reindeer moss, lichen, pinecones, pods, river stones and tallow berries. I love talking a stroll through the woods to find some of these mosses, lichen covered branches and interesting stones. A cute little critter nestled in, such as a bird, frog or lizard adds a nice finishing touch. Make sure it is made of resin, stone, or metal so that it doesn’t start rotting or molding over.
If it is necessary to further moisten the container, you may use a turkey baster to add just a bit of water around the edges of the container. After planting, you’ll need to observe the container closely until you can tell if the plant is too wet or too dry. If the sides of the container produce too much condensation, you may wish to blot some of the moisture, although a certain amount of condensation is normal, especially during the warmest and coolest parts of the day. Paper towels are great for this job. If you have over-watered a plant you might even take it out of the container and set it on several paper towels. Terrariums are very forgiving, so don’t be afraid to remove and add plants as you find the perfect balance.
Air Cleaning Houseplants
Airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, TCE and benzene are present in every home and office. That’s because these compounds are found in countless products used everyday: paints, varnishes, plastics, rubber, insulation and particleboard. Even permanent-pressed clothes, grocery bags and facial tissue contribute harmful toxins in the air you breath. Worse yet, symptoms from these toxins include eye, nose and throat irritation, headaches, allergic dermatitis, chronic respiratory diseases and neuropsychological problems. Yikes!
Houseplants fight air pollution by absorbing these harmful contaminants. NASA researchers discovered that certain houseplants can reduce indoor pollutants by 87 percent in 24 hours. So, why not add several plants to your home and office? You’ll love the look and breathe easier, too!
This beatiful plant will grow to be a dramatic feature in any home or office
An easy indoor vine that anyone can grow.
Thrives in lower light – so it’s lovely in dining and living rooms, offices, etc. Purifies the air, too.
A beautiful tree that you can grow in your house.
A houseplant that thrives in either bright or low light!
One of the easiest houseplants to grow - now available in exciting new hybrids.
Looking for a palm that tolerates shade? Stop right here!
Great easy care houseplant for a hanging basket or as a climber!
The perfect match for anyone wanting a houseplant!
A Beginner's Guide to Caring for Houseplants
Good for you! You’ve willing to overcome your fears and adopt a houseplant or two, but first you are wondering how to care for them. Relax. It’s really pretty easy. Plants need light, water and fertilizer to grow and flourish. Different plants have different requirements and some plants are easier than others. If you are a beginner – or if you are really busy and need something low maintenance – start with one of our easy care houseplants. These plants are durable, will handle a range of indoor temperatures in your home and will withstand a bit of watering neglect.
How much light does my new plant need?
This is a key question and one you need to ask BEFORE deciding which houseplant to bring home. Light requirements are divided into 3 groups:
- Full Sun
4 to 6 hours a day direct sun – try a southern exposure. - Medium Light
2 to 3 hours of direct sun, or 6 to 8 hours of bright indirect light, typically eastern or western exposure, or perhaps southern exposure but not placed directly near a window. - Low Light
No direct sunlight, but some indirect light, or even 8 or more hours a day of electric lights (regular incandescent, fluorescent, etc.)
Some plants are more sensitive to light fluctuations than others. For best results pick a houseplant that matches your room’s available light. Look at the plant label to see its group, or just ask us.
How to water your ‘Easy Care’ plants:
After determining the right amount of light, you need to know a little bit about watering. Surprisingly enough, the #1 reason houseplants fail to thrive is OVERWATERING, and that is because many people look at the top surface of the soil to decide when to water. Soil often looks dry on top, even when the plant has plenty of moisture. The real question is how moist the soil is below the surface.
Stick your finger right into the soil to a depth of 2” (about to your second knuckle). Gently pull it out look near the knuckle. You should be able to see if the soil is dry, slightly moist or very wet. Sort of like a human cake tester.
- If the soil is dry at this 2” depth, it is time to water.
- If the soil is slightly moist, wait a day or more.
- If the soil is downright wet at this depth, cut back on how frequently you water.
If possible, water your plants in the morning and use tepid (slightly warm) water.
Water thoroughly and slowly, but stop as soon as water runs through the drainage holes. Make sure that the soil is thoroughly wet when you are finished. If the water runs through the drainage hole too quickly, the pot may be crammed with roots and contain too little soil. In this case it may be time to repot.
Do NOT leave lots of excess water in the saucer – roots can rot if constantly wet. An alternative is to fill your drainage dish with a layer of small pebbles or river rocks. The rocks will keep the bottom of the pot elevated over excess water.
Do I need to fertilize my houseplants?
We regularly feed our houseplants. When you bring it home it is important to continue this care – especially if it is a flowering plant. As a rule of thumb, houseplants should be fed every other week in spring, summer and early fall. As light levels diminish in November, your plant will need less fertilization – once a month or less. Using a complete liquid fertilizer will ensure healthy, thriving plants. Follow package instruction carefully – too much fertilizer can be worse than too little.
Follow these three guidelines and even the most notorious plant killer can enjoy happy healthy plants in many rooms in their home, dorm or office.
Easy Care Houseplants
What to do if you feel you have a “black thumb”
While there’s no such thing as an immortal plant, if you’ve had bad luck before, you’ll be glad to know that Mahoney’s has a number of plants that are easy-care and very forgiving. Look for plants signs that feature our easy care logo. They include tried and true classics, as well as some brand new hybrids. Some of these plants are also proven effective at cleaning the air. Bonus!
Below is a list of plants we call easy care – but first consider these few pretty easy guidelines that will help redeem even the most notorious plant killer.
First, it’s probably not your fault.
No one is born a plant killer. Often the solution is as easy as selecting a plant that likes your environment.
Adjust how much you water.
Watering is a common reason houseplants fail. Oddly enough, too much water is frequently the problem. The wrong pot can also cause even the healthiest plant to expire. Check the care directions, or easier yet, ask us. Often it’s a very simple adjustment.
Don’t take it personally.
Relax. Enjoy your houseplant. See what you can do to keep it happy. But should the need arise bring home a new one. Most plants are not expensive. Many people routinely change their houseplants for the fun of it.
So many beautiful, nearly indestructible varieties to choose from!
Carefree, tough succulent houseplant perfect for beginners!
With almost no care needed, this palm will give you years of happy, healthy, lush tropical indoor greenery.
One of our “Easy Care” houseplants, it’s also one of our most popular dracaenas!
As close to foolproof as a plant can get!
An easy indoor vine that anyone can grow.
Easy to grow, timeless, popular - what more could you ask for?
Thrives in lower light – so it’s lovely in dining and living rooms, offices, etc. Purifies the air, too.
A beautiful, elegant, Victorian palm that tolerates low light and colder temperatures.
A popular plant for offices & homes because of its easy care and wide variety of light tolerance.
A houseplant that thrives in either bright or low light!
One of the easiest houseplants to grow - now available in exciting new hybrids.
Don’t be afraid, this decorator’s favorite is also practically impossible to kill.
Caring for Fall Bulbs
Spring Care
When your bulbs have finished flowering, cut back the flower stalks to ground level. Then, and this is important, let the foliage of your flowering bulbs dieback naturally – do not cut it back while still green. The bulb needs this time to make food reserves for next year’s flowers.
Get more color by overplanting with annuals
Want your garden color to continue after the bulbs are finished? You can plant annuals directly over or around bulbs for your summer color. Just remember to leave the Fall bulbs in the ground – do not dig up and store as you would summer flowering varieties such as dahlias.
Critter alert
Squirrels, chipmunks, skunks and raccoons can dig and eat bulbs. If that isn’t bad enough, deer are known to eat the blooms in spring. To avoid heartbreak, apply animal repellant. Some people recommend adding several different types to discourage a variety of animals. You can dip the bulb directly in the repellant; apply in the hole or top-dress. Happy news – all these animals don’t like Daffodils.
Fertilizing Bulbs
Because bulbs are natural warehouses of food to use for blooming, fertilizer is unnecessary for the first year’s blooms. That said, you will need to add a quality fertilizer after the first blooms are done to help the bulb rebuild itself for the following year’s bloom. We recommend Bulb-tone, (from Espoma, the people that make Holly-tone) it’s an all-natural plant food with Bio-tone® microbes formulated to help repeat blooming bulbs.
- You can add the fertilizer now when you are planting the bulbs – the bulb will not take in the food until needed late next spring
- Or you can wait until after they bloom and top dress with fertilizer.
Selecting and Using Fall Bulbs
Create a color plan
Choosing color schemes for your garden is similar to choosing color for your house or your clothing. Avoid the temptation to pick favorite bulbs individually and try to design the entire effect. A professional garden designer’s simple rule is to limit the number of colors in a display area to three, one of which should take up 70% and the others 15% each. If you want contrast, combine cool and warm colors; for harmony combine colors of the same temperature that are close to each other in tone and intensity. Good news: Bulbs are pretty easy to dig up and relocate – so if you don’t love this year’s color combination – move them.
Combine bloom heights
Most people get excited by color, but mixing and matching bloom height is also creative and fun.
- The smallest are Hyacinths and Crocuses. These are best used at bed edges and around the periphery of Winter-Spring container gardens.
- Medium height bulbs include Tulips, Daffodils, Anemones and Irises that grow to 1-1.5 feet tall. Use them for filling flowerbeds or naturalizing meadows.
- Alliums are the tallest fall bulbs. They produce 2-3 foot tall flower stalks topped with large balls of flowers. Designer tip: Plant Alliums and other tall bulbs toward the back if your flowerbeds will be viewed from the side. If your bed will be viewed from both sides, place them toward in the middle.
A nice effect is to plant small bulbs in front of tall, but this of course only works for bulbs that bloom at the same time.
The bouquet effect
For a more attractive natural look plant bulbs in groups or clusters. Many people space bulbs out to cover the most area, but the effect is thin, sort of like a bad hair transplant. For a natural effect: dig a large area and plant several bulbs at once or simply toss the bulbs into the air and dig holes and plant where ever they fall. You’ll be surprised how well this works.
Fall Bulb Planting Tips
When to plant Fall Bulbs
Wait ‘till it’s good and cold
Bulbs should be planted after the ground cools down. In New England, this is anytime after the first frosts, but before the ground freezes hard. You probably want to buy them early so you have the best selection, but around here, wait until October to put them in the ground. Until then, keep them in a cool, dry place. Also keep the label with the bulbs until planting. Without the label, you can’t tell the red tulips from the white ones.
Where to plant
You can plant bulbs just about anywhere in your garden. However, there is a saying that “bulbs don’t like wet feet” so avoid the bottom of a hill or other areas where water collects. Bulbs need light to bloom. Ideally you should try to plant in Eastern, Southern, or Western exposures where they’ll get six hours of light per day. (“light” does not have to be direct sunlight – filtered light is fine).
How deep?
It’s best to follow the instructions on the package, but the rule of thumb is plant big bulbs about 8” deep and small bulbs about 5” deep. Also consider the proximity to the house or other buildings, and plant the bulbs at least 5 feet from foundations, as heat from the buildings can damage bulbs. When “dropping” the bulb, try to have the pointy side face up – in most cases, however, if you don’t get it right the bulb flower will still find its way topside.
Planting Supplies
Better soil grows better blooms. Dig the soil with a bulb planter, trowel or shovel. If it’s loose and workable, great! If not, you’ll want to mix in some compost. Compost adds nutrients into the soil, improves the soil structure, and provides a healthy biodiversity. Compost helps sandy soil retain water, and helps plants resist harmful bacteria and fungi. Warning: over-doing compost is not a good idea – it can “burn” the bulbs.
Fall is for planting FALL BULBS
Question: What do you do if you want tulips, daffodils, hyacinths or narcissus to bloom in your garden next spring?
The answer is pretty easy: dig some holes, drop in some fall bulbs and voila, you’ll get flowers. One small detail: you have to plant the bulbs now, in the fall (hence the name), and then wait until spring for them to bloom. That’s because “fall bulbs” need the time in the cold ground in order to bloom next spring.
Why buy them at Mahoney’s
All our bulbs are imported directly from the finest growers in Holland. We have lots of varieties to choose from: some of the newest hybrids as well as the most popular classics. And most of our bulbs are top sized. Planting fall bulbs is pretty easy.

























