Herbs and Vegetables
Veggie Growing Season Is Not Over!!!
You asked for ‘em, so we got ‘em. Pull up your crops that are finished and extend your growing season with fresh, new broccoli, cabbage, lettuce and other cold crops.
In the past I’ve heard people ask for cold crops (veggies that get planted in late August and early fall) but there wasn’t much available. But due to the interest in home veggie gardening, some of the growers (especially our Growing Division in Woburn) are growing some of these great tasting veggie garden season extenders.
What. When.
These cold crops can be planted now through fall and can include things like broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, kale, Chinese cabbage (bok choi), Swiss chard, spinach, and more. So if those summer crops have run their course or maybe some unforeseen (rhymes with Irene) problems cut your season short; these cold tolerant plants can extend your season late into the fall or even winter. Harvest timing is between 30 to 60 days, so plant now and harvest greens with the goblins – usually end of October, but I remember picking my broccoli last year in December and harvesting my carrots (that I covered in hay) in March.
Contain your enthusiasm
Guess what? These veggies also grow well in containers! Better yet, things like the kale or cabbage can serve as a decorative fall plant as well as an edible. They can sit on a doorstep and be very decorative just like the fall mums, asters, kale and cabbage. ALERT: The typical ornamental kale and cabbage shouldn’t be confused with the edible varieties – they look the same but have a bitter taste and rough texture. So make sure you get the edible ones if you’re looking to eat them.
So if you’re not ready to wave good-bye to the garden season just yet, or you just want to try something new, we got ‘em right now.
Tell us what you’re going to grow. If you want to confirm the availability of a particular variety, please call the Mahoney’s you plan to visit.
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PDFTomato Mania
The warm-crop planting season is finally here and we can safely plant our crops and yes, our tomatoes. I love this time of year because my wife and I get together with the kids and pick our favorite tomato varieties to grow, and of course some new ones we may not have tried before. One of my favorite things is slicing up a bunch of different tomatoes (different shapes, sizes, colors, etc.) and tasting with friends. The favorites are usually written down to remember to plant next year. Over the years we’ve come up with a delicious list. One question I often get is, “what’s a good tomato?” I’ve got to answer their question with a question: “good for what? Salads, sauces, salsa, sandwich slicer or maybe a good cherry or grape. I have favorites for all occasions.
These are some of my favorites. Try some new ones this year – you may be pleasantly surprised.
Super sweet 100
What a great cherry! I like to call this one the ‘’babysitter’’ because it produces so many small red sweet cherries it will keep the kids busy for hours when you say, “go pick them”. This plant is very vigorous – don’t be confused by the size of the fruit, this is a huge plant and it will take up a lot of space. It’s not great in small pots, as it will outgrow them quickly, but that’s doesn’t make me love it any less. I strongly recommend it, even if you don’t have kids to entertain.
Sun gold
This one is probably the sweetest cherry I’ve come across. If you haven’t tried this one, it’s worth it. A little bit on the orange side so it adds a different color to salads. It’s on the low acidic end, too.
Brandywine
Now this is what summer is about! This old Amish heirloom comes in pink, red and yellow – and they’re all great. Who knows which is the original, but it doesn’t matter when you taste these. It’s not a heavy producer, so I make sure to grow more than enough. But man what a taste!! Slice those babies up with some buffalo mozzarella and a little pepper, creamy Italian dressing, maybe some fresh basil (I don’t like balsamic…too much heart burn). Yumm!!! If you’ve grown this one and want to try something new try Burpee’s ‘Brandy Boy’. It’s a cross between Brandywine and Big Boy. I got a nice yield with that great taste, plus it produces much earlier in the season.
Big Beef
This hybrid produces nice large, round, blemish-free tomatoes. But don’t confuse this with commercial varieties that are bred to look ripe before their time. This Big Boy is very disease-resistant. So if you have had problems with disease or cracking try this one, it won’t disappoint you.
San Marzano
This is the plum tomato that all others are judged by. It’s larger than roma, and tastes better according to my Italian relatives and friends. This variety is open pollinated like roma so you can grow it with other tomatoes without cross pollination (which can result in different tomatoes than what you intended).
Juliet
A large grape or small plum, this is a nice sweet variety that I love in salads, although you may want to slice them in half for the kids because they are slightly larger than your typical grape tomato. Nonetheless they are a nice sweet tomato with a long shelf life.
Prudence purple
This is another great heirloom I love to grow. These big purplish or dark red tomatoes are another great tasting tomato like Brandywine. A great one for any occasion. I love mixing these in with a caprese dish. They are really big and meaty and they taste great together.
Ramapo
This one was a surprise. We tried Rampo for the first time last year and it was great. It’s an old reintroduction of a Jersey favorite. Medium to large fruit with a great yield, this tomato will please all your uses. In fact I remember tossing a bunch in when making a sauce and they were not to watery. They’ve become a staple in my August salads.
Whopper
This is one big, big, nice tomato. Wait ‘til you see it – size alone is reason enough to grow the ‘Whopper’. You’ll agree, it definitely deserves a spot in your veggie garden.
Mortgage lifter
This is a big pink or maybe more red tomato that has a heavy yield of large low acid and low seed fruit. But the best part is the story of its origin. It was developed by radiator repairman, M.C.“Radiator Charlie” Byles. Without any experience in breeding, Byles made a successful cross of four of the largest tomatoes he could find - German Johnson, Beefsteak, an Italian variety, and an English variety. With the money he made selling the tomatoes he ended up paying off his mortgage, hence the name.
Lemon boy
If you want yellow, here it is. This medium-sized fruit is great tasting, as yellow as a lemon and has a heavy yield to boot. I love how they really brighten up a salad,
Jet star
This probably is a tomato you may have passed by or maybe you’ve grown it before, but a nice medium fruit sized fruit that is low in acid (you don’t have to be yellow to be low acid). This plant is a perfect size for those upside down tomato planters, it won’t take down the house when you water it and it also makes a great vine ripe bunch like in the groceries store.
This is just a short list of our ‘Uncle Mike’ varieties that we grow in our growing range in Woburn. We have selected a range of hybrids, grapes, cherries, heirlooms, dwarf, and lots of others varieties. We also buy a lot from other local quality growers so we have even more of a selection for you, and as we find new ones, well we’ve got to check them out as well right. All our tomatoes are locally grown so there is less of a chance to get late blight which is a disease that has been a problem in the last few years.
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Tomato varieties vary store by store, week by week. (Actually, on a busy day varieties can sometimes change hour to hour). |
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| Beefmaster | Beefsteak | Better Boy | Better Bush |
| Big Beef | Big Boy | Black Krim | Boxcar Willie |
| Brandywine | Bush Cahmpion | Carolina Gold | Celebrity |
| Cherokee Purple | Early Girl | German Johnson | Grape |
| Green Zebra | Health Kick | Hillbilly | Husky Gold |
| Husky Red | Jetstar | Juliet | Lemonboy |
| Marglobe | Moby | Mortgage Lifter | Mr. Stripey |
| Patio | Pink Girl | Ramapo | Roma Plum |
| Rutgers | San Marzano | Sugary | Super Bush |
| Superfantastic | Supersonic | Super Sweet 100 | Sun Gold |
| Sun Sugar | Sweet’n’neat | Sweet Olive | Tiny Tim |
| Totem | Viva Italia | Whitewonder | Whopper |
| Windowbox Roma | Yellow Pear | ||
It's lettuce planting time!
Here we go, off to another slow start to spring. But that’s ok with me, because these cold days and nights bring me to one of my favorite crops of the veggie season: lettuce and other leafy greens. Nothing beats fresh picked lettuce – the taste and texture is so much better than store bought. And it’s easy to grow, either in the ground or in containers. Plus this stuff loves the cold, so you need to take advantage of the season. Actually lettuce tends to “bolt” (stretches and goes to seed) when planted too late, so don’t procrastinate!
Any container will do!
Planting lettuce in containers – Start with any 10- to 12-inch pot that’s least 4 inches deep. It doesn’t need to be fancy (unless you like fancy, in which case pick a lovely pot that complements your outdoor décor and the color green). Good quality potting soil makes a huge difference, so don’t cheap out – and remember, topsoil or regular dirt will not work! The just pop in 4 to 6 plants in a 12-inch pot and you’re off!
Planting lettuce in the ground - Lettuce is an efficient use of garden space. I place plants in a row about 6-inches apart, with the next row about 12-inches away. Iceberg and other larger varieties may take a little more room. When the plants start to grow close together I take out every other head to make more room to grow. Again, starting with good quality soil rich in organic matter is key.
Fertilizer – lettuce and greens typically are “heavy feeders” (like to be fertilized often). When first planting I mix organic Espoma Garden-tone into the soil, and then as the plants grow I add Neptune Harvest Organic Blend Fertilizer when watering. Try to feed directly onto the soil without touching the leaves. There are other quality fertilizers that will work, but I always do both feedings because it really pushes them along well.
Fresh lettuce tastes way better than store bought!
Pest problems – lettuce and other greens don’t have a lot of problems at this time of year. Most insects aren’t out yet, and there are no major disease problems. The only insect problems I’ve ever had are aphids, and they’re easy to deal with. Every so often inspect under leaves. I usually use an organic approach such as insecticidal soap or Bon Neem. Start spraying every 5 to 7 days. Don’t let them get out of control because they get harder to deal with as the plant grows and inner leaves become harder to reach. Again, aphids are rare, but it’s something to keep an eye out for ‘cause there’s nothing worse than aphids swimming in the salad dressing. That said, also watch out for over watering; either from mother nature (which is uncontrollable) or yourself. While lettuce plants like an even moist soil, too much water will lead to botrytis, a rot at the crown of the plant.
Harvesting your lettuce – One of the great things about lettuce is how fast you can start to enjoy eating it. You can enjoy your first harvest in as little as 2 to 4 weeks. Remember, you can pick lettuce at any size – it tastes the same, it’s just smaller. As they start to crowd each other out, just thin out a couple heads, enjoy your fresh salad, and the rest will grow on for another supper. I usually plant too much every year, and inevitably get a little sick of salad towards the end of the season. But then I miss it when it’s gone and I look forward to it the next time I can plant. So don’t wait, take advantage of this pre-tomato growing season and plant that lettuce; your rewards will be palatable.
The vegetable garden - Act III
The warm days of this fall came to an abrupt end last week with the first snowfall on my garden. Not just a sprinkling either; over an inch fell and blanketed everything in its path. While it did disappear in a day and was followed by a perfect Indian summer weekend, I had been lulled into complacency with those warm days of this past October. 
The vegetable garden was past due for a cleanup and the garlic was waiting to be planted. I did think I was long overdue on planting the garlic but records show that I planted it on November 9th last year. It is easy to plant garlic but in order to do so, the beds have to be cleaned out, the tomato cages removed and piled, the compost added, and then there is raking, smoothing and planting. It would take a few minutes if everything was in order but as with many gardeners, other chores sidetrack these until the reality of snow and cold present themselves. After assembling all the tools necessary for the cleanup, I pulled the dead dry stalks of the basil, marigolds, and tomatoes and proceeded to clean out several beds.
The parsnips are lush and green in spite of the cold. They continue to sweeten as the colder temperatures arrive. Parsnips will winter well under an insulating blanket of mulch or straw and that was added as you can see.
There is still parsley and lettuce being picked and a row tunnel was added for a bit of protection for the next month or so until very cold weather halts the harvest.
I pulled a few parsnips for dinner and the last of the carrots were pulled. One of them qualifies for a veggie porn shot don’t you think? 
Last year I purchased garlic from a mail order company and this year I just selected some of the biggest bulbs from this season’s harvest to replant.
They are easy to plant once the ground is prepared, as you just break the cloves from the head and pop the largest of them into the ground an inch or so deep and four or five inches apart with the point up. I broadcast an organic fertilizer over the bed and then raked it smooth I decided to try a few cloves in a container since so many people are gardening on patios.
I put five cloves in this container and then added some pansies which may or may not survive the winter. If they don’t, I will just add some violas or maybe parsley to the pots in the spring. The garlic scapes are quite attractive and should add an interesting vertical element to the container. There is no reason to have a container that doesn’t look great sitting on the patio. Have you even grown garlic in a container? If so, what was your experience with it?
Tomato Tasting
Wine Tastings are all the rage these days but with the tomaoes producing volumes this year, why not consider hosting a ‘tomato tasting’ party? You will need to have a variety of tomatoes but, should you decide to have a party you could ask your guests to bring those from their garden or some from the Farmer’s Market to add to the collective fun. While wine tastings are limited to adults and wine lovers, tomatoes, the universal vegetable/fruit crop, can include the whole family. Those who don’t like tomatoes can satisfy their palate with the fresh mozzarella which serves as the ‘palate cleanser’. 
Sunday evening was the day for the ‘tomato tasting party here and all tomatoes tasted were grown here at Ledge and Gardens. The only plant not grown from seed was the cherry variety ‘Sungold’ which I picked up at the local independent garden center. Somehow, I forgot to plant my favorite cherry tomato. That is okay, though, since the garden centers are well stocked with a wide variety of both heirloom and hybrid tomato plants early in the season. 
All tomato plants were started here under lights in mid-April. 
This gardener takes no chances with the vagaries of Mother Nature. I have started the plants earlier only to have to pot them up to bigger and bigger pots in order to keep the root system healthy and vigorous. All plants were planted out the weekend of Memorial Day, which fell on May 31st this year. All plants were planted with organic fertilizer and subsequently fertilized with liquid fish solution. In spite of the different “days to maturity,” which varied from 55 days to 82 days, all tomatoes started producing within a week of each other.
The cast of characters included the following:
‘Brandy Boy’ - 75-78 day maturity, indeterminate vine, a hybrid of Brandywine. This tomato is large and most fruit are in excess of five inches across. The skin is thin and pink and this plant produces quite a few fruit. It is much more prolific in production than ‘Brandywine’ . The flavor was described as tangy, sweet, zippy and robust. It was the clear favorite.
‘Early Wonder’ - 55 days to maturity, determinate. This tomato is smooth and round with dark pink color. It was rated sweeter than Brandy Boy and two of the eight guests loved it. and all others only had good things to say about this pretty tomato.
‘Glory’ - 75 days, indeterminate vine. This tomato is a hybrid of two heirloom varities, although I could not find out which two. It is a plant which yields quite a few fruit which are beautifully round. The flavor was described as tomatoey, good, sour, acidic and tasty. It does have a fairly thick skin, which is quite noticable in comparison to the thinner skinned varieties. The fruit was nice and clean and very round and uniform.
‘Green Zebra’ - 78 days, indeterminate vines. This hybrid was developed as recently as 1985 and it is small and round with clear green stripes. It turns a yellow/gold when ripe. I think that I picked and served these a bit early as the flavor, usually quite zippy and acidic was described as neutral and one guest said it was like eating a leaf. Hmmmm… Catalog descriptions say it has a lemon/lime flavor and I would concur with that. It is very pretty on the vine and plated with other tomatoes, adding interest to the dish. It was a favorite of one of the guests.
‘Legend’ - 68 day, determinate vine. This hybrid is said to be resistant to late blight which was such a problem in many gardens, mine included, last year. The fruit sets without pollinization (parthenocarpic). The fruit of this vine is blemish free. The flavor was described as complex, mellow, pleasant. I would grow this again just because of its’ resistance to late blight.
‘Mortgage Lifter’ - 82 day, indeterminate vines. This hybrid has a great history. It was bred from four large heirloom varieties by M. C.‘Radiator Charlie’ Byles who actually had no plant breeding experience. His day job was fixing radiators, hence his moniker. As the story goes, once Radiator Charlie developed his hybrid, he sold the seedlings to tomato afficionados from all around the area for $1.00 each. A supreme sum in the 1940’s. With the proceeds, he payed off his mortgage. The fruit of this hybrid are over a pound and a half and can weigh in at four pounds. I have to say that this is my favorite and the flavor was described as delicious. While I do like it for the size and flavor, only one slice for a good BLT, the plants produce many fruit. I find that an all too important and often overlooked characteristic. Give me fruit count in a description.
‘Sungold’ - 65 days, indeterminate vines. Very fruit forward…sounds like a wine tasting doesn’t it? This was the only cherry tomato tasted and everyone loved it. It had much more flavor than any of the larger tomatoes but who can make a sandwich from a cherry tomato?
GuestsOf the eight guests, four liked ‘Brandy Boy’ the best, two liked ‘Early Wonder’, one liked ‘Green Zebra’ and one liked ‘Mortgage Lifter’. The general consensus was that all the tomatoes from the garden were distinct and delicious and there was no comparison to those bought at the supermarket. I should have had a supermarket tomato as part of the tasting but, next year.
In conclusion, I would like to add that I am firmly convinced, but have no scientific experiment to back up the hypothesis, that tomatoes, like grapes, respond to terroir. Terroir (click on this) is the term for the specifics of the soil. The soil in which the tomatoes are grown gives them a unique flavor depending on its particle composition and nutrient analysis. Maybe this will be proven sometime in the future.
You can be sure that I have made a note of Mike’s favorites. I will be planting some ‘Mini Charm’ cherry tomatoes next year. Please share with all of us the name of your preferred tomato. Just make a note in the comment section. We would all love to know.
My Year in Tomatoes, and What Comes Next
What I grew
Up here in the Northeast, we couldn’t have asked for better tomato weather…you need it hot, and we got it. My tomatoes have been almost disease-free this year, with just a few minor problems, very minor.
Surprisingly, I started harvesting early this year - June 15th, in fact, when I began picking cherry tomatoes, like Sun Gold and Sun Cherry. Now all the medium-size to large varieties are ripening so fast I don’t know what to do with them.
Of course I’m harvesting my Brandywines, too. I love this heirloom variety and for me it’s what summer is about. I grow lots of it because it doesn’t produce heavily but man what a taste!! Slice those babies up with some buffalo mozzarella and a little pepper, creamy Italian dressing, maybe some fresh basil (I don’t like balsamic…too much heart burn) and yum.
In addition to growing the heirloom Brandywines, I round out my tomato garden with some terrific hybrids. I’m talking varieties like Celebrity, Big Beef and Better Boy, all producing large, round, blemish-free tomatoes.
A new variety that we carried this past spring and that I’m growing in my garden is called Mini Charm. It’s a cocktail tomato or also described as “small grape tomatoes”. And seriously, they’re small and oval like an olive but the plant’s huge! In fact, it looks a lot like a Sweet 100 plant, which is quite aggressive and productive, with an absolutely great taste. I’ll go so far as to say I’d put its taste up there with Sun Gold and Sun Cherry, and they’re my absolute favorite cherry tomatoes.
What next? Fall crops
And now that my tomatoes are at their peak I’m harvesting them like crazy, but it’s also time to start my fall cold crops. So today I spent my morning sowing carrots and beets in empty spaces wherever I could find them, and I’ll harvest those in October or November. To me there’s nothing like fresh carrots from the garden - they just have more taste than the store-bought.
Another crop I love growing in fall is lettuce and its leafy greens. You’re probably seeing more of these in the garden centers this year, starting this month but also into September, thanks to the growers stepping up at the supply end.
Speaking of which, I got some lettuce flats the other day that I need to get in the ground soon, so I’m back to the garden for now.
Brandywine tomato photo by RS Green. Carrot photo by Sunrise.
Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces
You don’t need a farm to grow fresh herbs and vegetables. Plant breeders know that aside from great taste, home growers want a high yield in a small amount of space. As long as you have the right amount of sunlight, proper irrigation, and nutritious soil you can have tasty vegetables and herbs this season.
Sunlight
Both vegetables and herbs require full sun or 6 or more hours of direct outdoor sunlight per day. Without sunlight, the fruits will not ripen and the plants will be stressed. A few varieties will tolerate less sun, but they are primarily the cool season crops like lettuce and broccoli. Without the proper lighting conditions, you may want to reconsider a vegetable garden.
Water
Along with proper sunlight, regular watering is critical to your vegetable gardening. You cannot always rely on rain or overhead sprinkler systems. A thorough watering is important especially early on in the growing season, before the plants have produced fruit. Close access to a water spigot or drip system will do the trick.
Soil
Regardless of whether or not you have a good soil content, it can be enriched with nutrients and soil blends. A tasty vegetable is a direct result of quality soil. At Mahoney’s, we carry all of the necessary soil amendments for vegetable and herb gardening.
How much space does it take?
Generally speaking, vegetable gardening does take up a significant amount of space. Many vegetables have been historically known to require a large growing space in order to achieve fresh and tasty yields. This is no longer the case. Many plant breeders have been focusing their efforts on developing smaller varieties that still pack a punch.
- Look for varieties with dwarf or patio in their name. These varieties have been bred especially for smaller spaces. They will remain smaller and more compact. Remember, just because a plant has been bred for a small space does not mean it will sacrifice its fruit size or taste.
- Seek out vining crops that can be trained to grow upwards and save spaces. For example, opt for pole beans verses bush beans. Pole beans along with vining cucumbers and squashes will actually take up less space than their bush cousins.
- Interplant your vegetables and herbs alongside your summer annuals and perennials. Many vegetables and herbs do hold a decorative quality that can be well integrated into your landscape as long as you are willing to maintain them throughout the season. The trick is to plant your sun-loving herbs and vegetables alongside plants which also thrive under the same conditions.
Containers
If you are really pressed for space, container gardening with vegetables and herbs is a great solution. Containers are perfect for roof decks, patios, and any other area which gets 6 or more hours of sunlight per day.
- Make combinations of herbs or vegetables that you use often or would like to try. Most herbs and vegetables require full sun, so combining different plants is not a problem.
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Tip
- Try an Italian cooking garden with Sweet Basil-Flat Leaf Parsley-Rosemary
- Or create a garden of mixed greens for fresh salads with Romaine Lettuce-Arugula-Butter Crunch lettuce-Salad Bowl lettuce
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- Don’t use invasive materials that will take over the entire container. Mint is a great example of an herb that will get too invasive and take away space from the other plants in your container garden. So, plant your mint in a separate container.
- Seek out dwarf or patio varieties, however don’t feel limited. A 24-30” in diameter container will work fine for your container gardening including large items such as tomatoes and cucumbers. Use a smaller container with herbs, lettuces and peppers. Remember, with a contained root system the plant will remain more compact.
- Be sure to use a suitable potting mix that will provide the right nutrients and drainage for your herbs and vegetables. Mahoney’s Premium Potting Mix works great. Also, be sure your container has proper drainage for your plants.
- Try an earthbox! This well constructed and self-contained container system automatically replaces nutrients and moisture as needed. Its additional staking system makes growing vegetables almost too easy!
Small Space Care
- Feed your plants in order for them to reach their maximum potential. Herbs and Vegetables are heavy feeders so bigger and tastier fruits will come with fertilizing. At Mahoney’s, we have organic and conventional solutions for your vegetables and herbs. Try Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer. As always, follow the instructions listed on the desired fertilizer.
- Be sure to stake tomatoes and other tall vegetables often. By training your vines and tall vegetables, your plants will grow in a more manageable manner. We offer various staking and caging systems to ensure a well-supported in-ground and container garden.
- Don’t be afraid to prune! As the summer months approach, it is common for vegetable plants to produce a lot of foliage. Cut back the foliage leaves in order for the plant to put its energy into producing fruit. Also, allow the soil of tomatoes to get drier in the fruit-bearing months. Tomato plants like a little bit of stress while producing and this will limit excessive foliage that takes up space.
Uncle Mike's Herbs and Vegetables
Uncle Mike took after his mother in his passion for growing Tomatoes & other Vegetables. He has experimented with hundreds of varieties in his own backyard and is finally ready to share that passion with the world… or the greater Boston Area for now!
The variety of Herbs & Vegetables in the Uncle Mike’s collection is ever-growing. They are grown in our Pesticide-Free Woburn Growing Facility for a top-quality product. Uncle Mike and the rest of the Mahoney Family prides itself in products like this that give our customer’s the ability to grow a wide variety of produce in their own backyard.
Tomato Planting Tips
Tomatoes are by far the most popular home-grown fruit or vegetable. Here are some tips to help ensure that you get the most out of your Tomato plants.
- Turn the soil in your vegetable bed and amend with organic matter. Try Coast of Maine’s Lobster compost blend. You may then want to fertilize the soil with Tomato-Tone by Espoma or Tasty Tomato by Bradfield Organics.
- Planting your tomatoes in a different part of the garden each season is a good idea as many tomato diseases remain in your soil throughout the winter. Replace the soil in containers as well.
- Remember, if you are container planting, the planting environment is provided entirely by you. If a series of dry hot weather ensues, your watering habits in the container must be increased to accomodate the weather. The soil and its nutrients must also be provided. Staking must be done just as often to prevent the fruit from rotting at the base of the plant.
- Plant the tomato deep enough so the lower leaves touch the surface. This allows the planted stem to develop a larger root system and promotes a healthier plant. Once the tomato has become established, a water-soluble liquid fertilizer will increase how prolific your tomatoes will be. Try Neptune’s Harvest Organic fertilizer and use bi-weekly throughout the season.
- Unless you have purchased a bush variety such as Better Bush or Patio tomatoes, your plants will need to be staked regardless of whether they are in a container or in the ground. At Mahoney’s, we carry a vast selection of staking options from attractive bamboo stakes to easy-maintenance tomato cages.
How to Start Seeds Indoors
There’s nothing fresher or tastier than herbs and veggies from your own garden. Learn everything you need to know to get started growing your own herbs and vegetables indoors.
Here’s what you need to get started.
- Containers - peat pots, planting trays, and peat pellets work best. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it won’t dry out between waterings.
- Seedling potting mix - you will want to use a potting soil that is designed for starting seeds. Seedling Mix is the perfect medium for germinating seeds because it’s designed to promote better root development in young plants.
- Seeds - there are so many to choose from. For most plant varieties, plan on growing them 6-8 weeks indoors, but check packet directions for accurate growing times. Also check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground, so make sure to read the directions.
- A place to grow - seeds need a warm place in order to germinate. After they sprout, sufficient light is critical. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it isn’t too hot or too cold.
- A cover – if your planting tray did not come with a clear plastic lid, you can use plastic wrap to cover your finished tray.
- Spray bottle – you’ll want a spray bottle to be able to mist your soil to keep it moist.
Now you are ready to plant your seeds. Follow these easy steps for success!
- Fill your planting tray or peat pots with seedling potting mix. Pre-moisten the mix with clean water. Peat pellets are fun to use if you have young children. When you add water the peat pellet transforms from a flat disc to a tall self planting pot.
- Place your seeds in the soil. Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot. Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see. Sprinkle 3-4 seeds over the soil in each pot. Press in or lightly cover the seeds with potting mix. Do not cover them too deeply with soil.
- Cover your planting tray with a clear tray lid or with clear plastic wrap. You can also place plastic wrap over the tops of individual pots if you don’t have a tray. Place the tray or pots in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Make sure that your soil always remains warm and moist.
- When the seeds begin to sprout, remove the plastic wrap. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight. Plants will always grow towards the sunlight.
- Thin or transplant the seedlings when they get 2”-3” tall and have developed true leaves. This should happen after about 2-3 weeks. Thinning is done by gently pulling up the young plant or pinching off the stem. Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow the roots to continue to develop. Lift seedlings carefully by digging them out with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots. Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.
- Feed with a liquid soluble plant food diluted to half strength and remember to keep your soil moist, but not soggy.
- When the danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings into the garden, but they must first be “hardened off”. Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2-3 hours a day. The following week, set the plants out a little longer each day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight. After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden. Remember to use a transplant fertilizer when planting them.
Planting Seeds Outdoors
After danger of frost (typically the end of May) has passed there are many seeds you can plant directly into the ground.
To begin, choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight and where the soil drains well. Prepare the soil by raking the area clear of leaves and other debris. Dig the garden to loosen the soil down to about 12”. Add a transplant fertilizer at this time.
Make planting rows with a garden trowel or a pointed object, like a pencil to make indentations in the soil. Some seeds like cucumbers may require you to make the soil into mounds to plant the seeds. Plant the seeds according to the spacing directions on the back of the seed packet. Large seeds can be planted individually. Some seeds, like carrots are quite small. These smaller seeds can be mixed with a bit of sand and sprinkled over the area. You will want to read the directions to know how deep to plant the seeds.
Attach the empty packet to a stick at the end of the row if you wish to identify what is planted there.
Water the area with a gentle flow from a watering can or hose. Be careful not to shoot the seeds right out of the soil with too strong of water pressure. Keep the garden moist (not wet), until the plants are up and growing.
Final Tip: Whether planting a seed straight into the soil or planting a transplant, don’t forget to bait for slugs. They will feast on your young plant before the plant grows big enought to feed you! Plus, keep a photo journal or a log of the weekly progress in your garden. Once the sun decides to finally return you’ll be surprised at how quickly your tiny little seedling starts mature and you can begin to harvest the fruits and vegetables of your labor.