Trees and Shrubs
Winter Damage
What winter damage is, and what to do right now to prevent it
Winter Damaged Rhododendron
Now that winter seems to be really here, it’s a good time to address the most common cause of winter damage to shrubs: wind and sun. Did you think it was cold and snow? A lot of people do, but that is a misconception. In fact snow acts as an insulator and protects plants. The real damage happens when winter wind and sun draw moisture out of plants and, because the ground is frozen, the plant’s roots cannot replace the lost moisture. Common examples of winter damage are browning of leafs, dead rhododendron flower buds, dead branches and in sever cases loss of the entire plant. Broadleaf evergreens are most vulnerable – especially Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood, Andromeda, and Mountain Laurel. To a lesser degree needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Cypress, Alberta Spruce and Yews are also vulnerable. For the most part, deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves each fall) do not suffer winter dehydration (desiccation).
Wilt Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves
Two preventions that work:
Spray with an anti-desiccant
Right now - literally this weekend, when temperatures are 40 degrees or above - spray your broadleaf and needled evergreens with an anti-desiccant. The product we like best is called Wilt Stop. Spray it on the upper and lower leaf surfaces and it will provide an invisible waxy coating that will seal in moisture, protecting the plant from the drying winter winds that can cause browning, desiccation and death. This is particularly important for newly planted shrubs, container plantings, and any evergreen that is planted in an area where it is exposed to strong winter sun or wind.
Wrap with burlap
Newly planted evergreens, and those that are planted in exposed, windy areas may benefit from being wrapped in burlap for the winter. The best way to do this is to drive 3 or 4 stakes into the ground around the plant, wrap the burlap around the stakes, and staple or tie securely. If you want to protect an evergreen hedge, you can simply drive the stakes into the ground every 3 feet or so on both sides of the hedge and staple the burlap to the stakes, snug against the hedge, rather than wrap each plant individually. Evergreen hedges planted along the street may be exposed to road salt so it’s best to use a double layer of burlap for greater protection. Road salt can be very damaging to the foliage. Never use any type of plastic, as this material will heat up on sunny days, causing the foliage to burn.
Special note about Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas are also susceptible to desiccation. Flower buds that are located on the canes can also suffer winter damage. In this case, sprays and burlap are not the solution. Instead gently stuff straw or leaves in the middle of the canes, then tie up the canes and mound more straw or leaves around the outside. This cocoon should protect next years flowers from this winter’s wind and sun. Final note: do not uncover too early in the spring as tender buds could still be damaged during spring frosts.
Jean Dooley, Commercial Account Manager
Fall Is For Planting Trees, Shrubs, Perennials and Lawn Seed
While it may seem that the gardening season should be over, fall is actually a perfect time to plant. Yes, things above ground may look bleak, but below ground root growth is still in full swing.
- Planting success is all about the roots.
- You can plant later than you may think.
When you plant in the fall the soil is still warm from summer. Warm soil temps encourage new roots to grow. Fall is also the time when plants naturally shift their energy from top growth to root growth. This helps plants establish faster. Rainfall is more plentiful and predictable in the fall. New plantings require moisture for optimal growth. In addition, annual weeds that compete for nutrients and moisture are finishing their life cycle, which reduces this competition. And fall’s ample rainfall encourages roots to grow more deeply. Deeper roots are better able to find water now and next spring.
Another counter-intuitive benefit to planting in the fall is the cooler air temperatures above ground. Cooler temps mean less stress and fewer pest and disease problems.
Last but not least, roots continue to grow until the ground freezes. The results are that plants that are put in the ground in the fall will have stronger roots to start off next spring. Then when summer comes, they will be better equipped to deal with heat and drought.
Some things need to be planted in the early fall
There are many plants that will thrive when planted about four weeks before the first hard frost. These plants – grass seed, turf and cool season vegetables – need to establish a root system before the ground starts to cool in late fall.
Seeds or seedlings of lettuce, radishes, broccoli and spinach can be planted in early fall. To extend the harvest later into the fall, a row cover of black plastic can be added for further protection once heavy frost arrives.
Early fall is the best time for rejuvenating your lawn or for planting a new lawn. Grass seed germinates at cooler temperatures than summer can provide. Weeds are not germinating now making it the perfect time for lawn work. Ideally, new grass seed should be planted about a month before the first hard frost predicted for your area.
Groundcovers such as Vinca or pachysandra will develop strong root systems when planted in the fall. When spring arrives your fall planted beds will be thick and full of healthy plants.
Some things can be planted even into late fall
Any perennial, shrub or tree that has been grown in a container or ball and burlapped can be planted late into the fall – right up until the time that the ground freezes. Later plantings will benefit from a protective mulch once the ground is frozen. This insulates the soil and keeps it from freezing and thawing.
Tulips, Daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs are best planted from mid-October through ground freeze. Planting too early can cause the bulbs to send up top growth at the wrong time. Planting bulbs in the fall ensures a good root system and a beautiful garden when spring arrives.
Final benefit
Savvy shoppers know that plant prices come down as the year comes to an end. Perennials are an especially great bargain because most people see a perennial that has passed and assume it’s dead. Fact is planting perennials in the fall means you’ll get a great price, and the plant will have the fall months to grow a strong root system. Next spring you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic, established plant and some extra money in your pocket to boot.
Azaleas
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Extremely hardy.
Azalea in miniature, a late blooming detail plant!
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Compact, a good choice for a smaller planting bed.
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Compact, with excellent foliage!
Good foundation plant
Great white flowers on a substantial shrub.
Very hardy!
Very hardy!
Flowers look like miniature pink roses, very nice!
Very hardy!
The standard for pink flowering azaleas!
Very fragrant Summer flower
Double blooms
Early bloomer
Very early bloom
One of the best low growing reds!
Nice clear purple flowers!
A pretty, semi-dwarf azalea.
Excellent foundation plant.
Dynamite, abundant flowering!
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Good foundation plant
Late blooming, extends the azalea season!
Unusual variegated foliage!
Fluffy rose-pink flowers.
The last color- Rhododendron mucronulatum 'Cornell Pink'
The last bit of color in the garden coincides nicely with the Thanksgiving Day holiday. The landscape is turning shades of gray and brown as the leaves litter the ground and the bare tree branches form outlines against the sky. There is one shrub, the Korean rhododendron, which brightens the back corner of the garden and has been a reliable bit of late color for the past six years. It is worth noting because it’s the very last of the shrubs in the border to lose its leaves and also the first of my flowering shrubs to bloom in the spring. The leaves finally drop anywhere from the last week of November to the second week of December, depending on the weather. The picture above was taken in 2007 when the grouping of three shrubs was considerably smaller.
They were a bit more orange that year. The color ranges from this brilliance to a slightly more subdued yellow orange, as it is this year.
This is a deciduous (leaf-dropping) rhododendron and the ‘Cornell Pink’ cultivar was developed at Cornell University in the early 1950’s. The R. mucronulatum was introduced to the U. S. market in the late 1800’s and originates inKorea, Manchuria and Northern China. It will grow up to ten feet tall with a similar spread. I find the flower color of ‘Cornell Pink’ much more desirable than the straight species color, which is a light purple.
The Korean rhododendron buds start to crack color in early April and the flowers emerge towards the end of the month. It will bloom for a considerable length of time and it looks wonderful in front of the blooms of a star magnolia (Magnolia stellata). During the summer, this shrub contributes medium fine foliage and airy grace to the shrub border. The Korean rhododendron fits into a naturalistic landscape quite well and it is working overtime right now in the garden, where it shows up quite nicely from a distance.
I highly recommend adding a few of these to your garden if they are not already in residence. Is there anything in your garden which is still showing color or life? Share if you will. The winter will be long enough.
Solutions for your Underblooming Endless Summer Hydrangeas
Have you been disappointed by the less-than-awesome blooming of your Endless Summer hydrangeas? The growers of this popular new hydrangea have heard complaints from
northern gardeners about weak flowering and have responded with some great tips, which Mahoney’s is happy to pass along to our customers. You can also click here for videos about choosing the right one, pruning, potting, uncovering them in spring, and more.
Take it away, Endless Summer experts.
Although a number of factors may contribute to the consistency or inconsistency of blooms, there is no simple answer to this matter. Here are some steps consumers in cooler northern climates can take to help ensure beautiful blooms.
1. Location
Location, location, location! Yes, that old saying is true. In Northern climates, the location of your hydrangea in the garden will have the largest impact on bloom production. The farther north you are, the more sun your plants can tolerate. In zones 4-5a we recommend planting your Hydrangeas in a location that enables them to receive at least 6 hours of sun with some dappled shade in the afternoon.
2. Pruning
Don’t treat your Endless Summer Hydrangeas like an Annabelle Hydrangea by cutting them back in the fall or early spring. By cutting to the ground or within a few inches of the ground, most if not all of the buds on old wood are being removed. In addition, the old blooms of Endless Summer add to the winter interest of your garden. Endless Summer Hydrangeas certainly do bloom on new wood, but it may take longer for flower buds to develop on the new growth of a young plant.
3. Winter Cover
Protection for plants in the first few years is important, as is protection from spring freezes. Since Hydrangea buds emerge early in spring, late freezes may damage bud
development as well as any new growth. Keeping the crown of plants covered with mulch through May helps protect these buds and any soft new growth from late spring freezes.
4. Feeding your plant
Fertilization is also an important factor in flower production of Hydrangeas. A good quality, slow-release fertilizer applied once in spring or early summer should suffice for all but the most demanding locations. Look for an NPK ratio of 10-30-10. Container plants may need an additional application of liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Remember, if you over-feed your Hydrangeas, the effect is more dark green leaf production with fewer flower buds. In the North (zone 4) we recommend no fertilization after August 15th, as plants need to slow down and acclimate for winter.
5. Watering
The amount you water is one more factor you can regulate to ensure beautiful blooms. Although Hydrangeas are named after “Hydra”, Greek for water, your hydrangeas will form large leaves, lots of green growth and few flower buds if over- watered. Over-watering may slow the formation of flowers considerably. It’s normal for plants to wilt for a short time in the heat of the day. You’re better off to water well and less often, than giving a little all the time.
By following these simple tips you should see wonderful bloom production on your Endless Summer Collection Hydrangeas for years to come.
Autumn's Small Revelations
October is THE month of glorious color in New England. Mid-October gives us the golden reality of peak foliage in hues of scarlet, tangerine and warm yellow, but this change is progressive and the small, isolated bits of color start to appear in late September if one pays attention to nature. In my garden, the first deciduous plant to show color is the poison ivy that climbs many of the trees in the surrounding woodlands. This year it’s brilliant orange. The changing of the foliage is the most obvious change of the season, but even the foliage begins with just a leaf or a branch or two of color.
The maples are often the first to show any inclination to change from their robes of summer green to the jewel tones of autumn. The swamp maple (Acer rubrum) above has one brilliant branch of red that’s quite difficult to overlook on the morning walk.
With the coloration of the foliage under way, there are many less obvious, often overlooked plants still fruiting and flowering in the garden. It’s worth taking the time to observe the small wonders nature has to offer. In my garden, the purple beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica) is covered with berries that seem impossibly purple. This small shrub could be underplanted with fall crocus (Colchicum autumnale), which would create a petticoat of lavender at the base of the shrub.
( Note to self: Underplant purple beautyberry with colchicums.)
October is also a month for mushrooms. I only wish I could identify the edible treats from the more common poisonous varieties. I’ll have to satisfy myself with photographing the many mushrooms that appear after the rain. They force themselves up through the woodland debris, often carrying bits of soil and duff skyward on their caps. I find them all intriquing and each is unique.
Evident this year is Mother Nature’s generousity with acorn production. It’s difficult to walk anywhere without crushing or slipping on the acorns. They’re pinging off the car in the driveway and off the windshield on the roadways. Does ample acorn production mean we’ll have a harsh winter with lots of snow? Scientists say that there is no correlation, and I sure hope they’re right.
Has acorn production been as vigorous and plentiful in your garden? What small wonders have you observed in your garden these early days of October?
Winterberry
When most people think of holly, the image conjured up is one of bright red berries, glossy evergreen foliage and Christmas decorations. So when you talk to the average homeowner about deciduous holly (Ilex verticillata) they look at you as if you were a moron. That’s because many people consider deciduous holly an oxymoron. A holly has glossy evergreen leaves, right! No, not always. Ilex verticillata, Winterberry Holly, or Winterberry is our native, wetland holly that loses it leaves each autumn.
This beautiful shrub is all the more showy because its lack of winter leaves makes its berry display all the more showy. After the leaves have turned yellow and have fallen off, you are left with a breathtaking view of thousands of brightly colored berries clinging to every stem. What a joy to have such color in the middle of winter.
Ilex verticillata is an amazing plant with a tremendous geographical range and a very diverse genetic expression. The native population of Ilex verticillata stretches from Nova Scotia, south to Florida and west to Missouri. It can be found throughout Michigan in low grounds, moist woods, swamps and occasionally in higher, drier soils. Even though it is most commonly found in low swampy soils, it can also be grown quite successfully in your average garden soils. It is an easy to grow plant that has few serious insect or disease problems. As for its genetic variation, this plant can range in heights from 3 feet to 15 feet. The width of the plant is also variable. In wet sites it normally suckers to form a dense spreading thicket. In drier garden soils, it tends to form a tighter clump. At blooming time this plant has little to attract attention. It has very small, inconspicuous white flowers, with male flowers and female flowers found in different individual plants. It is autumn, however, when this plant comes into its own, when its slender branches are draped with small but numerous berries right to the branch tip. The berries remain on the plant until midwinter adding color to the landscape when it is most needed. To facilitate a good berry set it is advisable to purchase at least one male for every three to five female plants and to plant the male in close proximity.
The most popular American selection for cutting is ‘Winter Red’. The bright red berries are of medium size and produced in abundance. It is a multi-stemmed; erect plant maturing at 8 to 9 feet in height. One of my favorites is called ‘Cacapon’. This beautiful plant has attractive, dark glossy green leaves and compact branching. It has abundant bright red fruit and make a great landscape plant with year round interest. It matures to 6 to 8 feet and has a nice rounded habit. If you are looking for a smaller plant, ‘Red Sprite’ is a fantastic low mounded selection that matures at 3 to 5 feet. It has attractive, clean, dark green foliage, and tight branching right down to the ground. This plant makes a great low hedge or mass planting. its low stature makes it an indispensable variety. For those looking for something a bit different, try ‘Winter Gold’. This is yellow-berried sport of ‘Winter Red’. The berries are not really gold, but instead and attractive pinkish-orange that lighten up with age. Another attractive color variation is ‘Aurantiaca’. This beauty has bright pinkish-orange fruit that lighten with time. It is a eye-catching plant, although a bit untraditional. Having a rich abundance of Ilex verticillata in Michigan, it is impossible not to hone in on a few exceptional native specimens. After years of observation we have chosen two plants worthy of introduction. One plant was located about ¼ mile off a local road, and for years it never fail but to catch our eye. It has dark red shinny berries produced in great abundance and a well branched rounded habit. The berry display was so nice, we simply named it Berry Nice®. We had also been observing a native plant located in a ditch right along side the road. For years we would drive by this plant, and every autumn it would produce a very heavy crop of bright orange-red fruit. After years of admiration we finally introduced this beauty under the name Berry Heavy®. Are these two plants the absolute, very best selections available? Only time will tell how good they are, but they just seemed too good not to share. As with all new plants, growers and landscapers will determine how good a selection is and the cream will rise to the top.
No matter which selection you grow, Ilex verticillata is a shrub worth getting to know and understand. Even east Coast landscapers, who can grow of many fine evergreen hollies, have adopted winterberry as a regular staple in their landscaping palette. If you’re a landscaper, or a designer, I urge you to try at least one new plant a year. Make Ilex verticillata this years plant. It is a tough, easy to grow shrub that looks great in mass. Use it in place of Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood Viburnum. It’s the perfect plant for wet, or poorly drained sites. Use it around retention ponds or near a runoff ditch. Don’t restrict this worthy plant just to wet sites, it grows just fine in drier soils too. With the new demand for native plants, winterberry fits the bill and looks good too! As the old commercial use to says “Try it - You’ll like it!”
By Tim Wood All rights reserved © Spring Meadow Nursery, Inc.
5 Great Shrubs to Fill up the Garden

I coach all kinds of homeowners in gardening and see two very common situations with the identical solution. Beginners often have a blank slate, so where do they start? Others have been gardening for a good while and seen improvements, but their gardens still don’t thrill them. Something’s missing and it’s almost always shrubs, especially big, fast-growing ones that will soon create a nice Eastern fullness and presence in the garden. They’ll provide the sense of enclosure that’s essential in an outdoor space the family can enjoy. And they’ll be the perfect backdrop to perennials and annuals that the homeowners may also want to grow (and gardeners definitely will).
Luckily, there are plenty of great shrubs that, in addition to doing all that, will put on quite a show when it’s their turn to bloom. So without further ado, here are some of my favorite flowering shrubs that help make a yard look like a garden. I’ve provided links to my web page for each one, for additional details. Oh, and best time to plant any of them? September-October. The second-best time is spring, as early as possible.
The doublefile viburnum is perhaps the best-looking viburnum of all, of which there are dozens of great ones for the garden. The doublefile is almost as tall as a dogwood and blooms at the same time. It definitely needs supplemental watering in periods of drought but beyond that, just some renewal pruning after it’s a few years old. My method is to remove a third of the stems to the ground after they’ve bloomed, and they respond well to it.

Next, two of the many weigelas filling up my garden. Also easy-care, they have the added feature of growing really fast. I’ve been happy to see more great varieties of weigela available lately – people need more plants like these that are as close to self-sustaining as you’ll find.

Spireas are another group of shrubs that breeders are working with, and we’re seeing amazing new varieties these days - lots of shorter types, and an array of chartreuse-leaved beauties. This is the old-fashioned bridal wreath type doing great work as a foundation plant in front of my house. Even in the winter when the leaves are bare, it has a large woody presence.

Another fast-grower is this oakleaf hydrangea. In addition to the virtues you see here, its exfoliating bark makes it a focal point all winter. Seriously.

And I couldn’t resist showing off one more hydrangea – the later-blooming ‘Tardiva’ that gardeners just don’t use enough. Garden writers are touting its virtues, so we may be seeing more of them soon. They’re larger and more drought-tolerant than the familiar mophead hydrangeas that bloom in pink and blue.
Hydrangeas
When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating plants when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.
Growing Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.
Pruning hydrangeas
- Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds.
- To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems.
- To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.
Winterizing Hydrangeas
The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. remov this mound at the end of April.
Hydrangea Color
For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.
For blue flowers, the soil needs to acidic. Aluminum Sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the soil.
For pink and red flowers, the soil needs to be alkaline. Lime can be added to decrease the acidity of the soil.
Tips for Growing Hydrangeas
When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple but important tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.
Growing Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.
Pruning hydrangeas
Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds. To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems. To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.
Winterizing Hydrangeas
The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. Remove this mound at the end of April.
Hydrangea Color
For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.
- For blue flowers, the soil needs to acidic. Aluminum Sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the soil.
- For pink and red flowers, the soil needs to be alkaline. Lime can be added to decrease the acidity of the soil.





























