Printer-friendly version
Send to friend
PDF version
Dig a hole twice as wide and about the same depth as your plant’s rootball. Be careful not to dig too deep. For balled and burlapped plants, you want the rootball to be slightly above ground level. For container plants, the soil inside the container should be even with the ground level.
Trees and Shrubs
Winterberry
When most people think of holly, the image conjured up is one of bright red berries, glossy evergreen foliage and Christmas decorations. So when you talk to the average homeowner about deciduous holly (Ilex verticillata) they look at you as if you were a moron. That’s because many people consider deciduous holly an oxymoron. A holly has glossy evergreen leaves, right! No, not always. Ilex verticillata, Winterberry Holly, or Winterberry is our native, wetland holly that loses it leaves each autumn. This beautiful shrub is all the more showy because its lack of winter leaves makes its berry display all the more showy. After the leaves have turned yellow and have fallen off, you are left with a breathtaking view of thousands of brightly colored berries clinging to every stem. What a joy to have such color in the middle of winter.
Ilex verticillata is an amazing plant with a tremendous geographical range and a very diverse genetic expression. The native population of Ilex verticillata stretches from Nova Scotia, south to Florida and west to Missouri. It can be found throughout Michigan in low grounds, moist woods, swamps and occasionally in higher, drier soils. Even though it is most commonly found in low swampy soils, it can also be grown quite successfully in your average garden soils. It is an easy to grow plant that has few serious insect or disease problems. As for its genetic variation, this plant can range in heights from 3 feet to 15 feet. The width of the plant is also variable. In wet sites it normally suckers to form a dense spreading thicket. In drier garden soils, it tends to form a tighter clump. At blooming time this plant has little to attract attention. It has very small, inconspicuous white flowers, with male flowers and female flowers found in different individual plants. It is autumn, however, when this plant comes into its own, when its slender branches are draped with small but numerous berries right to the branch tip. The berries remain on the plant until midwinter adding color to the landscape when it is most needed. To facilitate a good berry set it is advisable to purchase at least one male for every three to five female plants and to plant the male in close proximity.
The most popular American selection for cutting is ‘Winter Red’. The bright red berries are of medium size and produced in abundance. It is a multi-stemmed; erect plant maturing at 8 to 9 feet in height. One of my favorites is called ‘Cacapon’. This beautiful plant has attractive, dark glossy green leaves and compact branching. It has abundant bright red fruit and make a great landscape plant with year round interest. It matures to 6 to 8 feet and has a nice rounded habit. If you are looking for a smaller plant, ‘Red Sprite’ is a fantastic low mounded selection that matures at 3 to 5 feet. It has attractive, clean, dark green foliage, and tight branching right down to the ground. This plant makes a great low hedge or mass planting. its low stature makes it an indispensable variety. For those looking for something a bit different, try ‘Winter Gold’. This is yellow-berried sport of ‘Winter Red’. The berries are not really gold, but instead and attractive pinkish-orange that lighten up with age. Another attractive color variation is ‘Aurantiaca’. This beauty has bright pinkish-orange fruit that lighten with time. It is a eye-catching plant, although a bit untraditional. Having a rich abundance of Ilex verticillata in Michigan, it is impossible not to hone in on a few exceptional native specimens. After years of observation we have chosen two plants worthy of introduction. One plant was located about ¼ mile off a local road, and for years it never fail but to catch our eye. It has dark red shinny berries produced in great abundance and a well branched rounded habit. The berry display was so nice, we simply named it Berry Nice®. We had also been observing a native plant located in a ditch right along side the road. For years we would drive by this plant, and every autumn it would produce a very heavy crop of bright orange-red fruit. After years of admiration we finally introduced this beauty under the name Berry Heavy®. Are these two plants the absolute, very best selections available? Only time will tell how good they are, but they just seemed too good not to share. As with all new plants, growers and landscapers will determine how good a selection is and the cream will rise to the top.
No matter which selection you grow, Ilex verticillata is a shrub worth getting to know and understand. Even east Coast landscapers, who can grow of many fine evergreen hollies, have adopted winterberry as a regular staple in their landscaping palette. If you’re a landscaper, or a designer, I urge you to try at least one new plant a year. Make Ilex verticillata this years plant. It is a tough, easy to grow shrub that looks great in mass. Use it in place of Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood Viburnum. It’s the perfect plant for wet, or poorly drained sites. Use it around retention ponds or near a runoff ditch. Don’t restrict this worthy plant just to wet sites, it grows just fine in drier soils too. With the new demand for native plants, winterberry fits the bill and looks good too! As the old commercial use to says “Try it - You’ll like it!”
By Tim Wood All rights reserved © Spring Meadow Nursery, Inc.
5 Great Shrubs to Fill up the Garden
Mon, 08/30/2010 - 1:25am — Susan Harris
I coach all kinds of homeowners in gardening and see two very common situations with the identical solution. Beginners often have a blank slate, so where do they start? Others have been gardening for a good while and seen improvements, but their gardens still don’t thrill them. Something’s missing and it’s almost always shrubs, especially big, fast-growing ones that will soon create a nice Eastern fullness and presence in the garden. They’ll provide the sense of enclosure that’s essential in an outdoor space the family can enjoy. And they’ll be the perfect backdrop to perennials and annuals that the homeowners may also want to grow (and gardeners definitely will).
Luckily, there are plenty of great shrubs that, in addition to doing all that, will put on quite a show when it’s their turn to bloom. So without further ado, here are some of my favorite flowering shrubs that help make a yard look like a garden. I’ve provided links to my web page for each one, for additional details. Oh, and best time to plant any of them? September-October. The second-best time is spring, as early as possible.
The doublefile viburnum is perhaps the best-looking viburnum of all, of which there are dozens of great ones for the garden. The doublefile is almost as tall as a dogwood and blooms at the same time. It definitely needs supplemental watering in periods of drought but beyond that, just some renewal pruning after it’s a few years old. My method is to remove a third of the stems to the ground after they’ve bloomed, and they respond well to it.
Next, two of the many weigelas filling up my garden. Also easy-care, they have the added feature of growing really fast. I’ve been happy to see more great varieties of weigela available lately – people need more plants like these that are as close to self-sustaining as you’ll find.
Spireas are another group of shrubs that breeders are working with, and we’re seeing amazing new varieties these days - lots of shorter types, and an array of chartreuse-leaved beauties. This is the old-fashioned bridal wreath type doing great work as a foundation plant in front of my house. Even in the winter when the leaves are bare, it has a large woody presence.
Another fast-grower is this oakleaf hydrangea. In addition to the virtues you see here, its exfoliating bark makes it a focal point all winter. Seriously.
And I couldn’t resist showing off one more hydrangea – the later-blooming ‘Tardiva’ that gardeners just don’t use enough. Garden writers are touting its virtues, so we may be seeing more of them soon. They’re larger and more drought-tolerant than the familiar mophead hydrangeas that bloom in pink and blue.
Hydrangeas
When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple but important tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.
Growing Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.
Pruning hydrangeas
- Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds.
- To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems.
- To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.
Winterizing Hydrangeas
The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. remov this mound at the end of April.
Hydrangea Color
For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.
For blue flowers, the soil needs to acidic. Aluminum Sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the soil.
For pink and red flowers, the soil needs to be alkaline. Lime can be added to decrease the acidity of the soil.
Tips for Growing Hydrangeas
When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple but important tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.
Growing Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.
Pruning hydrangeas
Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds. To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems. To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.
Winterizing Hydrangeas
The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. Remove this mound at the end of April.
Hydrangea Color
For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.
- For blue flowers, the soil needs to acidic. Aluminum Sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the soil.
- For pink and red flowers, the soil needs to be alkaline. Lime can be added to decrease the acidity of the soil.
Blueberry Plants
It is hard to deny, Blueberries are yummy. However, they are also known for their high antioxidant content which is thought to help protect the body against the damaging effects of free radicals and the chronic diseases associated with the aging process.
Blueberries are also easy to grow and are beautiful additions to your landscape. In the spring, blueberries have shiny bay-like leaves and lily-of-the-valley type flowers. Then in the fall, their leaves change from green to red and gold. In the winter, when the leaves are gone, the woody stems are a striking gold and red, offering four seasons of interest. Plus, as mentioned before, they are so yummy.
Blueberries like well-drained acidic soil, high in organic matter. They do better in soil with a pH range of 4.5-5.2. A pH outside this range can result in poor growth and yields. Blueberries require soils that drain well throughout the year, yet hold adequate moisture. Plants cannot withstand extended periods of flooding in winter or dryness in the summer. Plants need the equivalent of at least 1-2 inches of rainfall per week.
Blueberries are, to a degree, self-pollinating. Growing at least 2 varieties will optimize fruit production and increase yields. Growing different varieties also allows you fresh blueberries during different times of the summer season and it also allows you to mix their flavors. Some blueberries are sweeter, some are more tart. They make for a flavorful bite when mixed together.
How to Plant Trees and Shrubs
Properly planting trees and shrubs will greatly increase their chances of survival. They will be more tolerant of adverse conditions and will require far less maintanence. Here are our recommended planting instructions to ensure that you give your trees and shrubs the best possible start.
Lilacs
Beautiful and fragrant, lilacs are a staple of many New England gardens. Although their flowers only last 2-3 weeks, by planting 2 or 3 different varieties with varied bloom times you can enjoy bountiful flowers for up to 5 or 6 weeks.
Where to Plant
Plant lilacs in a sunny location, larger growing varieties are well suited for specimen or accent planting, hedging, or screening in open areas where they have ample room to grow. Low growing and dwarf types are perfect for planting in smaller gardens where space is limited. Lilacs are beautiful companion plants for flowering shrubs and trees, bulbs, perennials and conifers.
Soil Requirements
For healthy vigorous plants and abundant bloom it is essential that lilacs be planted in good soil. Plant lilacs in loose, gravelly loam, with plenty of organic matter. Lilacs will not grow in compacted soil. Good drainage is a must. Add a couple of handfuls of lime at planting time and every three years or so thereafter, as lilacs are one of the few plants that do not like our acidic New England soil.
Pruning
Prune immediately after flowering to control size and shape, and to encourage new growth. Remove 1/3 of the oldest, heaviest wood each year by cutting it off at the base of the plant. Old lilac blooms are cut just above the forming buds for next year’s blooms.
Fertilizing
Most lilacs will benefit from a light application of general purpose fertilizer as soon as the ground thaws in early spring.
Lilac Varieties
- Common Purple Lilac (syringa vulgaris)
Very hardy, fast growing, dense upright shrub with heart-shaped blue-green leaves. Bears large, fragrant clusters of lavender flowers in mid May. 8-15’ - Common White Lilac (syringa vulgaris alba)
White flowering form of above. - French Hybrids (syringa vulgaris)
- Belle de Nancy-double pink
- Charles Joly-double, purple-red, very fragrant, narrow upright
- General Sheridan-lacy, double white
- Katherine Havemeyer-large, double lavender pink, very fragrant vigorous
- Ludwig Spaeth-single, reddish-purple
- Michael Buchner-double lilac
- Mme. Lemoine-double white, slow growing Monge: single, deep purple-red
- Moscow Beauty-double, white, very hardy
- Nadezhda-double blue President Grevy-double blue, large florets, large panicles
- President Lincoln-single blue, very fragrant tall leafy plants
- Primrose-single, creamy pale yellow, slow growing
- Sensation-single purple-edged white, unusual
- Chinese Lilac (syringa rothomagensis)
Wide spreading, rounded shrub with slender arching branches. Bears large, loose clusters of purple flowers in late May. Prolific bloom. 8-15’ - James McFarlane (syringa prestoniae)
Very hardy, large, pyramidal, bright pink flower clusters bloom on stout sturdy stems in June, about two weeks after the common lilac finishes blooming. 8’ - Dwarf Korean Lilac (syringa palibiniana/syringa meyeri)
Compact, slowing. Small dark green leaves. Small flower clusters, reddish-purple in bud, open to violet purple fragrant flowers in late May. Very floriferous. 4-5’ - Maiden’s Blush (syringa hycinthiflora)
Hardy, early blooming. Blooms 7-10 days before the French hybrids. Bears single light pink blossoms in early May. Very fragrant. 10-12’ - Miss Kim (syringa patula miss kim)
Dwarf, compact rounded form. Glossy green foliage turns red in fall. Fragrant single pale violet flowers bloom late in season, after most other varieties have finished blooming. 3-5’ - Persian Lilac (syringa persica)
Low growing shrub with dark green foliage on upright, arching branches. Small clusters of pale lilac flowers bloom in late May. Very floriferous. 4-8’ - Pocahontis (syringa hycinthiflora)
Very hardy, vigorous, heavy blooming. Maroon-purple buds open to single, deep purple flowers in early May. 10-12’
Holly (Ilex)
Hollies are attractive, versatile, and widely used evergreen shrubs. Some hollies have the classic, spiny leaf shape of those used in Christmas wreaths, while others more closely resemble boxwood. All hollies are excellent choices for hedges, screening, and foundation plantings. They provide year-long interest in the landscape, and their fruits will attract birds to your garden.
As a rule, hollies prefer a rich, slightly acid, well-drained soil. They will grow in sun or part shade, though they will produce more berries in full sun.
Blue Holly
(Ilex x meserveae)
The “blue” hollies are shrubby in habit and have leathery, glossy, dark green (almost blue-green) leaves in the classic holly shape. The female forms have showy red fruit. In order for the females to bear fruit, a compatible male plant needs to be growing within 50 feet. One male plant can pollinate several female plants. Ilex x meserveae varieties can grow 10’ or more if unpruned; with pruning they can be kept to 5’ or so. They grow well in full sun to moderate shade.
- Blue Maid
Broad shape. Easily sheared to a pyramidal form. Large red berries. Needs a Blue Stallion or Blue Prince for pollination. Ht. 6-10’ - Blue Princess
Broad and upright. Heavy-fruiting. Needs a Blue Stallion or Blue Prince for pollination. Ht. 6-10’ - Blue Prince
Broad and upright. Good pollinator for Blue Princess, Blue Maid, and Dragon Lady. Ht. 6-10’ - Blue Stallion
Vigorous, broad, and upright. Dark glossy foliage on purplish stems. Excellent pollinator for Blue Princess, Blue Main, and Dragon Lady. Ht. 8-10’ - Dragon Lady
Narrow, upright, and columnar. Very spiny foliage. Produces large red berries. Needs a Blue Stallion or Blue Prince for pollination. Good vertical accent plant. - Golden Girl
Dense and pyramidal. Bears an abundance of large, bright yellow berries. Needs a Blue Stallion or Blue Prince for pollination. Ht. 6-10’ - China Girl
Compact and rounded. Abundant large red berries. Needs a China Boy for pollination. Ht. 5-7’ - China Boy
Best pollinator for China Girl. Ht. 6-7’
Japanese Holly
(Ilex crenata)
The Japanese holly cultivars are broadleaf evergreen shrubs that are excellent for massing, hedges, and foundation plantings. Most are densely shrubby with glossy, dark green leaves that are ½ inch to 1¼ inches long. Most have small, blackish fruit borne under the foliage. These plants are easy to grow in well-drained soil. They prefer full sun but will do quite well in partial shade.
- Howards
Compact and slow-growing. Slightly convex leaves. Tolerates urban planting conditions. Maintain at a height of 4-6’. - Hoogendorn
Dense and compact. Ht. 2-3’ - Hellers
Dwarf, compact, and slow-growing. Tiny, dark green leaves. Forms a low mound. Great for a rock garden or foundation planting. Ht. 1-3’ - Steeds
Upright-growing, dense, and pyramidal. Ht. 8’ - Schwobels
Upright. Upright to pyramidal. Ht. 6-8’ - Hetzi
Dense, compact, and wide-spreading. Ht. 4-6’ - Green Lustre
Compact, with low-spreading branches. Tolerant of urban conditions. Ht. 3’ - Compact
Dense and compact. Ht. 3-4’ - Chesapeake
Dense, compact, upright, and pyramidal. Ht. 6-8’
Inkberry Holly
(Ilex glabra)
Inkberry hollies are broadleaf evergreen shrubs that are native to North America. They have small, dark green, spineless leaves and black berries that are borne under the leaves. Very hardy and adaptable, Inkberry hollies are tolerant of sandy soils, salt, and coastal conditions, and are generally easy to grow. They are excellent for massing, hedges, and foundation plantings, and do well in sun or shade.
- Inkberry
Wide, upright, and fast-growing. 6-8’ - Inkberry Compact
Dense, wide, and upright. Ht. 4-6’ - Inkberry Shamrock
Slow-growing and compact. Ht. 4’ - Inkberry Nordic
Dense, compact, and rounded. Ht. 3-4’ - Inkberry Dense
Dense, compact, and slow-growing.. Tolerant of wet conditions. Ht. 6-8’
Flowering Dogwoods
The flowering dogwood is one of our most beautiful ornamental trees. Dogwoods offer us a spectacular floral display in spring, light shade in summer, brilliant red fall foliage and berries, and interesting form in the winter landscape.
Success with flowering dogwoods depends on good cutural practices.
- Begin by selecting a healthy nursery grown tree.
- Select a proper planting site. Dogwoods prefer to be planted in a lightly shaded location. They will tolerate full sun, as long as they are supplied with ample moisture. In moderate shade, they will produce fewer flowers. Dogwoods must be planted in well-drained soil, in an area with good air circulation that allows the foliage to remain dry.
- Take time to prepare your soil before planting. Dogwoods flourish in slightly acidic, cool, moist, well-drained loam with plenty of organic matter.
- Mulch 3-4 inches deep, in a 3’ circle around the base of the tree to help retain moisture, and keep the roots cool. Do not allow the mulch to be in contact with the trunk of the tree.
- Water slowly and deeply as needed, early in the day until the tree is well established and during periods of drought for the next several years. Do not wet the foliage.
- Annual pruning is generally not needed. Prune after flowering to control size and shape, and to remove any dead or diseased wood.
- Be careful with lawnmowers and trimmers. Do not cause physical injury to the base of the tree. Wrap the trunk with protective tree wrap for the first year after planting.
- Fertilize only as needed based on soil analysis. Control dogwood pests.
Healthy, vigorous, well cared for trees are far more resistant to disease and insect infestation than trees under stress, you will be rewarded for your extra effort by year round beauty.
White Flowering Dogwood (cornus florida)
Slow growing, low branched ornamental tree with a horizontal spreading branching habit. Round buds open to large white flowers in May before foliage appears. Bright red berries in small clusters August-october will attract birds. Deep green leaves tum red-reddish purple in autumn. Plant in sun or part shade, in moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Mulch 3-4” deep around the base of the tree to help retain moisture. Keep mulch away from the trunk. Height 25’.
Cornus Florida Cultivars
- Cloud 9
Compact, slow growing, with a spreading growth habit. Bears a profusion of large pure white flowers in May, before foliage. Prolific bloomer at an early age. - Cherokee Chief
Vigorous, upright with a straight central leader and uniform branching habit. Nonfading rich red blossoms in May. New leaves emerge bright red, mature to deep green in summer, and turn brilliant scarlet in fall. - Cherokee Princess
Upright, fast growing. Heavy, reliable, early bloomer. Produces large snow white flowers in May.
Pink Flowering Dogwood (cornus florida rubra)
Similar to the white flowering dogwood, slightly smaller and slower growing. Bears light pink flowers in May. Height 20’.
Weeping Dogwood (cornus florida pendula)
Weeping form bears white flowers on stiff pendulous branches. Unusual ornamental tree for small gardens where space is limited.
Kousa Dogwood (cornus kousa)
Slow growing, vase shaped when young, becoming more rounded with age. TIered horizontal branching. Long-lasting, creamy white star-shaped flowers bloom mid-June, about three weeks later than comus florida. Dappled, exfoliating bark on older wood adds winter interest. Raspberry-like fruits August-October will attract birds. Dark green foliage turns reddish-purple in autumn. Plant in part shade. Height 15-25’.
Cornelian Cherry (cornus mas)
Large multi-stemmed shrub or small tree. Hardy, disease and pest free. Small yellow flowers in early April signal the start of spring. Edible scarlet fruits August-September. Glossy green leaves tum red in autumn. Sun or part shade. Height 15-25’.
Satomi Kousa Dogwood (cornus kousa satomi)
A newly developed pink form of the Kousa Dogwood. Deep reddish-pink star-shaped flowers bloom in June, followed by raspberry-like fruits that will attract birds. Hardy and disease resistant. Prefers light shade. 15-25’
Rutgers Hybrids -Stellar Series
A new group of hybrid dogwoods developed by Rutgers University to be highly resistant to anthracnose and dogwood borers. They are crosses betw.een comus florida and comus kousa exhibiting some characteristics of each parent. Bloom time is mid to late May, after comus florida, before comus kousa. Rich green foliage turns red in fall.
Sun or part shade. 15-20’
- Constellation
Tall, upright, vigorous. Produces large, white flowers. - Celestial
Tall, heavily branched, prolific bloomer. White flowers. - Galaxy
Large, white flowers. - Stellar Pink
Upright. Produces pale pink flowers.
Sign up for MahonEmail |
Search |
