[I garden in Zone 7, but this article is suitable to gardens throughout Massachusetts - as cold as Zone 5.]
You know those loooong lists of “chores” in the garden for each month? Well, I hate ‘em. I’m a gardener of the low-maintenance school, and here’s what I’d rather know: What do I really, really have to do this month, ot the 40 possible things I could do? The 40 things I probably would do if I were of the Martha Stewart of gardening, which, unfortunately, I’m not.

Experienced gardeners will see this as the no-brainer of the month but I have to say it: In the absence of regular rain, it’s time for some summer triage. That means choosing the plants that really could die without supplemental watering, and saving on water and labor by letting the lawn go dormant for a while. (At least this is how I treated my lawn when I had one, and it always bounced back in September.)
I walk my garden at LEAST once a week and really look at the plants to see which ones are wilting and need help. Also, I water trees and evergreen shrubs whether they’re wilting or not (they won’t) because they’re the most valuable plants in my garden, bar none! Trees are particularly vulnerable to drought, and they require deep watering. That means using a soaker hose or letting the regular hose drip for several hours, or until the soil is wet at least 6 inches deep.
My containers, of course, need watering daily unless there’s rain.

This is the other obvious garden chore for August, since weeds are pretty darn obvious this time of year. My weeding tips?
I’m removing dead, damaged or disease wood from trees and shrubs as I find them. Same goes for suckers and water sprouts. Otherwise, it’s a no-pruning month for me.
I’m sowing my fall crops - peas, and lettuce greens - in the empty spaces where my melons and cucumbers grew until just last week. For the salad greens I’ll sow a few seeds every 10 days to two weeks and see how long I can keep the harvest coming.
No more feeding for my garden. Not that I ever did much of it. Only my vegetables, containers and roses received this kind of coddling (I’m of the tough-love school). It IS the time to feed lawn, though, so keep reading.
Lawns are never this lush and full without added nitrogen.
(When I had a Lawn)
From now until early September is the best time to start a new lawn or overseed a sparse one (and whose lawn isn’t?), so when I had a lawn, this is when I tried to improve it. (Watch for a blog story later this month by Mike Mahoney about his favorite grass seed.)
Now about fertilizing. Lawns simply use up their stores of nitrogen every year and become unhealthy and spotty if the nitrogen isn’t replaced – at the rate of 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. So if your lawn is sparse, August and early September are the absolute best time to apply a slow-release, organic fertilizer. (Look for the term WIN, which stands for water-insoluable nitrogen). Read those instructions first, and follow them. Compost is also a terrific source of nutrition for your lawn, and many organic gardeners simply apply a quarter- to half-inch layer every fall to keep their lawns healthy and full.
If you applied the recommended amount of corn gluten last winter to prevent weeds, your lawn may already have enough nitrogen for the year. Other ways to make sure your lawn gets the food it needs are grasscycling - leaving grass clippings from the mower where they fall - and including clover in your lawn. Yes, clover’s a good thing! It’s described as “self-fertilizing” because this wonderful little plant turns nitrogen in the soil into nitrogen the plants can use. (And there’s a term for that -“fixing” nitrogen.)
Here’s the part that’s optional for me because my garden’s pretty darn full by now - after 25 years here in this spot. But it’s been months since I bought any plants and the sales are on and I can’t stop myself. But hey, they’re on sale. (And if they’re not, I’m sure I needed the plants, anyway. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.)
Late August through Early October is a perfect time to get things done in your garden. The summer flowers have passed and the conditions are just right for refreshing your landscape and getting a head-start on spring. Cooler air and ample rain help to stimulate a period of rapid root growth, making fall a perfect time plant new trees, shrubs and cold tolerant annuals. Here are some tips on what you can do right now to dress up your yard and get a jump on spring.
Many diseases can overwinter in the stems of perennials and the fallen leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs. To prevent your plants from becoming re-infected in the spring it is important to rake up leaves and cut down any diseased stems of perennials.
Winter survival of woody plants depends largely on the moisture of the soil in the fall. Water needs to be applied to ensure that woody plants have taken up sufficient amounts of moisture to prevent stress related to desiccation, that is, plant water loss in winter. When soils are dry in late summer and early fall, water should be applied once per week or so, depending upon soil moisture levels, through October. Click here for some tips for watering
It is widely assumed that fertilizing in the fall will promote late season growth that is prone to winter damage. However, recent studies have shown that the nutrients that support spring growth in woody plants are those that were taken up in the previous year and stored over winter.
Fall is a great time to apply mulch to garden beds. By adding a 3-4 inch layer of mulch will buffer plants’ root systems from fluctuating temperatures and moisture levels throughout the fall and winter. Additionally it will help suppress weed growth.
Fall is the best time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs because after the leaves have fallen it’s much easier to see which limbs need pruning and how it will affect the overall shape of the plant. Another reason to prune in the fall is that insects and diseases are far less prevalent this time of year.
Planting trees and shrubs in the fall gives them a chance to start spreading some roots in the cool moist soil. The cooler soil and air temperatures along with the increased rainfall also take away much of the shock that plants incur during the planting process
Massachusetts has become a hot spot for Lyme disease, a bacterial infection spread by the bite of an infected deer tick. The infection commonly attacks the heart, nervous system and joints with a variety of symptoms. Many of those who catch Lyme disease catch it in their own backyard. However, there are several ways to help protect yourself.
Although ticks can be active any time the temperature rises above freezing, they are most active during the warmer months beginning with spring. Young ticks (nymphs) are the size of a poppy seed and are usually most active between May and July; adult ticks are the size of a sesame seed and are most active in the fall and following spring. Their small size makes them difficult to spot on your body.
Early symptoms of Lyme disease may include a rash where the tick was attached or flu-like symptoms such as fever, swollen glands, joint pain or headache. However, while these symptoms may subside on their own, more serious problems can occur weeks to years later. Early treatment with antibiotics is important.
If left untreated, later stages of Lyme disease may include symptoms ranging from chronic joint pain or arthritis, nervous system complications similar to meningitis or Bell’s palsy, or heart problems.
Nearly 70% of people who catch Lyme disease do so in their backyard. Protect yourself and your family by minimizing opportunities for ticks to thrive.
If you should find a tick attached to you, remove it as soon as possible. The tick usually must be attached for more than 24 hours to spread the bacteria. Never squeeze the tick. Use pointed tweezers to grasp as close to the skin as possible and pull-out straight.
Prevention within your own backyard is the first step anyone should take to help protect themselves and their family.
General information:
Mass.gov Health and Human Services or
CDC Division of Vector Borne Infectious Diseases
For a Lyme Disease Fact Sheet from the Massachusetts Department of Public Health: Lyme.pdf
For information on where to get a tick tested for Lyme disease:
UMass Tick-borne Disease Diagnostics
Starting in early September, the stressful heat and humidty that encourage weeds and fungus to run rampant have passed. During this time of year your lawn takes advantage of the improved conditions by increasing root growth and storing energy. There are several things that should be done in the fall to maintain a lawn’s health throughout the late fall and winter.
Aerating your lawn will allow light, moisture, air and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the root system, creating healthier, stronger roots and improving drainage.
The best way to keep a full, disease and drought resistant lawn is to maintain a healthy root system. In the fall, lawns should be fertilized twice to encourage continuous root growth and good color throughout the season. Feed once in early September and then follow up with a second feeding in mid-October to encourage rooting and carbohydrate storage for winter survival.
Overseeding your lawn in the fall is one of the most effective ways of reducing weeds in the spring. By simply increasing the thickness and desity of your lawn, there is less available space for weeds to grow. It’s important to use a seed with an aggressive juvenile stage so it will reach maturity before the winter.
The most important thing to take into consideration while choosing a container is how functional it is for the plant. Adequate size and drainage should always be a priority. If you are unsure of the correct dimensions or material necessary to sustain your container garden, our experts are always available to assist you.
The right container for your garden is one that will enhance the contained plants or in the location in which they are displayed. If you are accenting a front entry way, choose the pottery that will accent your home. If functionality is the goal, then the material of the container is more important. Whatever you decide to choose, your container can be a reflection of your personal taste.
Some materials used for containers are more porous than others. Materials like terra-cotta and wood allow better air circulation and enable the root system to breathe. However, with a more porous material, the soil may dry out faster need to be monitored for watering more often. Materials like glazed terra-cotta and plastic hold soil moisture better, yet drainage may not be as efficient. Adequate drainage holes must be present in such containers.
In order to ensure healthy roots, soil must drain properly. If soil is too dense or if a blocked drainage hole can cause water to collect at the bottom. When choosing your conatiner, it is imperative to look for drainage holes. If they are not present, holes can be easily made in some containers.
A container that is too small will constrict the roots and not allow root system development. A container that is too large may leave the extra soil too wet and prevent drainage. Our container and pottery selection at Mahoney’s is unbeatable.
We source our containers from all over the world. From Italy to Germany and Malaysia, Vietnam, and right here in the US, our container selection can’t be found any where else. We’re sure you’ll find what you’re looking for at Mahoney’s!
When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple but important tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.
Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.
Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds. To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems. To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.
The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. Remove this mound at the end of April.
For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.
Need some help diagnosing those brown patches in your lawn? Looking for some tips on getting the most out of your veggie plants? Well send your questions to us! Our gardening professionals will do their best to steer you in the right direction.
Asking a question is easy, just login or register and start sending us your trickiest gardening puzzlers.
| Sort by Question | Sort by Date Asked |
|---|---|
| Hibiscus help | 1 week 1 hour ago |
| Last year I have two large hydragea bushes planted - lace cap… | 2 weeks 3 days ago |
| Any flowers that you can recommend to plant now to get through… | 4 weeks 1 day ago |
| Any flowers that you can recommend to plant now to get through… | 4 weeks 1 day ago |
| REALLY brown lawn | 4 weeks 2 days ago |
| Apple cultivar recommendation? | 5 weeks 6 days ago |
| Why are my tomatoes rotting? | 7 weeks 22 hours ago |
| How do I change the color of my hydrangea? | 7 weeks 22 hours ago |
| How do I get rid of moss? | 7 weeks 22 hours ago |
| Why are the Gingko trees on my street dying? | 8 weeks 2 days ago |
| My plant's leaves are turning brown. | 9 weeks 22 hours ago |
If you have kids or pets it’s an easy decision, but if not, here are a few reasons: an organic lawn will save you time, energy and money. In a nutshell, organic lawns require half as much maintenance, are less habitable for weeds, require less water and keep harmful chemicals out of water supplies.
Organic lawn care is as much about changing your lawncare practices and expectations as it is about choosing the right products. The goal is to create an environment that allows your grass to become more self sufficient and less reliant on chemical fertilizers and control products. The key to creating a healthy, self-sufficient lawn is revitilizing the soil.
Over the last 500 million years plants and beneficial soil microorganisms have developed a symbiotic relationship. When a plant photosynthesizes it releases a carbon exudate into the soil, which microorganisms utilize as a food source. The microbes then surround the root to feed on the carbon and in return protect the plant roots, recycle nutrients, improve nutrient availability, improve nutrient absorption, minimize nutrient leaching and improve the soil structure over time. As you can see this truly is a “symbiotic relationship”.
Today many soils are out of balance and are virtually devoid of beneficial microbial populations due primarily to an over reliance on “quick fix” cultural practices, which rely on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to manage turf. Synthetic fertilizers push excessive plant growth which actually weakens the plant and makes it a target for insects and disease. Pesticides applied to control lawn insects elevate the problem by killing beneficial soil microorganisms. When the microbes are no longer there to protect the roots you are forced to apply more pesticides and the cycle continues.
So creating a healthy, self-sufficient lawn starts by revitalizing the soil biology and re-establishing beneficial microbial populations. This can be achieved through the use of quality organic lawn care products along with responsible lawn care maintenance practices.
Organica’s 4 Step Program is a back to basics approach to plant management designed to revitalize soil biology and provide a foundation for healthy turf growth. Organica’s “Natural Lawn Program” is designed to re-establish beneficial microbial populations and provide the soil with the necessary components to promote healthy controlled growth and reduce plant stress.
All Natural, All Purpose Plant Food with Bio-tone® Microbes
Plant-tone is the original all natural plant food made from quality organic ingredients. Plant-tone’s natural organics breakdown gradually, providing a safe, long lasting food reservoir activated throughout the growing season. Plant-tone’s all natural formula contains Bio-tone®, our patented blend of beneficial microbes. Bio-tone biologically enhances our natural plant food to ensure superior plant growth. Plant-tone is approved for organic gardening.
For established lawns, apply 20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. 3 times a year – Spring, Summer and Fall.
Neptune’s Harvest is an organic fertilizer made from fresh North Atlantic fish and seaweed. It’s made by a unique cold process that protects the vitamins, amino acids, enzymes and growth hormones.
It also contains all the micro and macro nutrients naturally found in fish. The nitrogen and other nutrients are chelated, so they are readily available for plants consumption. Unlike fish emulsions, Neptune’s Harvest retains the fish proteins and oils and has no unpleasant odor. University studies have shown Neptune’s Harvest to outperform chemical fertilizers.
Jonathan Green Organic Lawn Fertilizer is 100% Organic and contains kelp, feather, bone and blood meals, amino acids and humates. These ingredients help to rejuvenate your lawn with a slow, gentle feeding. They promote green-up without excessive top-growth. It won’t burn your lawn so it can be applied at any time of the year.
Making a few quick preparations before planting a tree or shrub is a worthwhile exercise. It will give your plants a healthy start and could end up saving you time, energy and money.
Light, soil, and water requirements can vary from plant to plant. Make sure that the specific demands of your plant will be met in the given location. Also make sure that there is enough surrounding space to allow the plant to mature – this includes space above, free from utility wires and other trees, and space underground for the roots to spread, free of obstructions like foundations and root competition from other trees. If you’re not sure what your plant requires, ask us and we’ll let you know.
Healthy plants start with healthy soil. Dig a test hole to check for proper drainage, moisture retention, aeration and nutrients. These soil characteristics depend on the amounts of clay, sand and organic matter like compost & peat moss. Generally if your soil is light or medium brown it is lacking organic matter and nutrients. Sandy soils drain quickly and are lighter and easier to dig than clay soils which usually are heavy, compacted and drain slowly. Fortunately most soils fall somewhere between sand and clay and can be easily improved by adding organic soil amendments like compost, manure, peat moss and topsoil. These amendments will help to aerate and lighten heavy clay soils, and add mass and retain moisture in light sandy soils. If you’re not sure what to use, bring us a sample and we will guide you.
Sometimes a plant will look better when viewed from a particular angle. Walk around your plant and determine which side you think looks the best and mark that side with a ribbon.
Delicate branches can be injured when planting. To create working room and prevent damage tie up the lower limbs of a plant prior to planting. Simply tie a piece of twine to one of the lower branches. Gently lift the lower branches and wrap the twine around the tree to hold them up. Make sure the top portion of any tall tree is untied before you stand it up in the hole.
Sign up for MahonEmail |
Search |