Lawn Care
Winter Damage
What winter damage is, and what to do right now to prevent it
Winter Damaged Rhododendron
Now that winter seems to be really here, it’s a good time to address the most common cause of winter damage to shrubs: wind and sun. Did you think it was cold and snow? A lot of people do, but that is a misconception. In fact snow acts as an insulator and protects plants. The real damage happens when winter wind and sun draw moisture out of plants and, because the ground is frozen, the plant’s roots cannot replace the lost moisture. Common examples of winter damage are browning of leafs, dead rhododendron flower buds, dead branches and in sever cases loss of the entire plant. Broadleaf evergreens are most vulnerable – especially Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood, Andromeda, and Mountain Laurel. To a lesser degree needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Cypress, Alberta Spruce and Yews are also vulnerable. For the most part, deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves each fall) do not suffer winter dehydration (desiccation).
Wilt Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves
Two preventions that work:
Spray with an anti-desiccant
Right now - literally this weekend, when temperatures are 40 degrees or above - spray your broadleaf and needled evergreens with an anti-desiccant. The product we like best is called Wilt Stop. Spray it on the upper and lower leaf surfaces and it will provide an invisible waxy coating that will seal in moisture, protecting the plant from the drying winter winds that can cause browning, desiccation and death. This is particularly important for newly planted shrubs, container plantings, and any evergreen that is planted in an area where it is exposed to strong winter sun or wind.
Wrap with burlap
Newly planted evergreens, and those that are planted in exposed, windy areas may benefit from being wrapped in burlap for the winter. The best way to do this is to drive 3 or 4 stakes into the ground around the plant, wrap the burlap around the stakes, and staple or tie securely. If you want to protect an evergreen hedge, you can simply drive the stakes into the ground every 3 feet or so on both sides of the hedge and staple the burlap to the stakes, snug against the hedge, rather than wrap each plant individually. Evergreen hedges planted along the street may be exposed to road salt so it’s best to use a double layer of burlap for greater protection. Road salt can be very damaging to the foliage. Never use any type of plastic, as this material will heat up on sunny days, causing the foliage to burn.
Special note about Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas are also susceptible to desiccation. Flower buds that are located on the canes can also suffer winter damage. In this case, sprays and burlap are not the solution. Instead gently stuff straw or leaves in the middle of the canes, then tie up the canes and mound more straw or leaves around the outside. This cocoon should protect next years flowers from this winter’s wind and sun. Final note: do not uncover too early in the spring as tender buds could still be damaged during spring frosts.
Jean Dooley, Commercial Account Manager
Overseeding Your Lawn
Overseeding for better greening.
Every fall when we post our list of lawn care suggestions, we’re reminded that many people think that spring is the quintessential season for lawn care. Yes, spring is when most people dust off their garden gloves and tackle their lawns, but the fact is back-to-school is perhaps an even better time to treat your lawn to some TLC. Fertilizing, compact aeration, composting and compost tea all are excellent ways to help your lawn looks its best, but perhaps the most important fall activity is to thicken your lawn by “overseeding” with new grass seed. Yes, a thicker lawn looks better, but the real secret is that a thicker lawn helps crowd out weeds naturally, without resorting to chemical weed killers.
Why do it now.
Back to school is always a little crazy, but if you can squeeze in a couple of hours, here are a few reasons why late August through September is the best time to grow new grass seeds and get that thick green lawn that will be the envy of your neighborhood. While daytime temperatures are on the decline, below the surface the soil retains its warmth – and warm soil helps seeds germinate faster. Back-to school season also brings more rainfall – not great for football, but super helpful for seed germination. Cooler temperatures also reduce insect infestation and disease. And last but not least, weeds don’t germinate during cooler fall days, so your new grass won’t have to compete with new weeds.
How to Overseed Your Lawn
- Mow at the lowest possible setting. If you got a grass-catcher, use it –– lumps of cut grass will interfere with new seed germination.
- Use a grass rake to remove all dead grass and twigs. This will help ensure good contact between the new seed and soil. It’s also good exercise.
- If your lawn soil is compacted (hard to pierce with a shovel or spade) have the lawn aerated. This allows for moisture to reach the seeds and roots. You can rent a DIY machine, or call Mahoney’s Safelawns and we’ll do it for you. (Compact aeration is a good idea even if you are not overseeding.)
- Spread a high quality seed. Quality seeds cost an extra few bucks but will produce a more disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, attractive lawn. (Click here to learn why Uncle Mike Mahoney prefers the Jonathan Green line of seeds and lawn care products.)
- Apply a quality seed starting fertilizer to provide the phosphorus needed to establish strong roots
- Spread a 1/2-inch layer of compost over the seed –– this is important to improve the soil and will help keep moisture near the seeds.
- Water consistently. Grass seeds will ABSOLUTELY DIE if they’re allowed to dry out, so your number one job is to keep them moist for at least 3 weeks. Watering should be shallow — getting the top 1/4 inch wet is enough — but you may have to water twice a day especially if it’s hot. Warning: Allowing new seed to dry out for even a day or two can ruin the grass seed you just spread. One option is to buy a faucet-end hose timer.
- After 3 weeks, you can water less frequently but more deeply.
- Do not mow until the old grass reaches 3 inches.
Got Bare Patches? Seed Now, Too
- Remove all dead grass roots and debris with garden rake or cultivator.
- If your soil has the consistency of clay, spread some compost over the area. If your lawn is compacted, do compact soil aeration.
- Smooth with a rake or smaller tool, like your hand.
- Sprinkle a modest (not too thick) layer of premium grass seed over the spot.
- Add a quality organic or traditional seed starting fertilizer.
- Gently tamp the seed and fertilizer down so it doesn’t easily wash away when you water.
- Apply a thin (1/4 inch) layer of straw, sifted compost, or soil-less growing medium as mulch.
- Water at least daily to keep the seeds constantly moist for 3 weeks, as you would for overseeding the whole lawn.
Yes, it looks like a lot of steps, but overseeding is not rocket science, doesn’t take all that much work and really isn’t very expensive. Plus year after year you’ll be rewarded with an easer to maintain, more beautiful lawn. One final note: don’t procrastinate –– new grass roots need time to establish before frost, so for best results make sure to overseed before October 15th. Got questions? Stop in to any Mahoney’s – we’ll talk you through it.
Now let’s hear your fall lawn care secrets.
Got any fall lawn care tips or helpful suggestions that you’d like to share? Leave a comment and let us know your recipe for successful fall lawn care.
Mole Max
The effective, but friendly, mole and vole repeller.
- Safe to use around kids and pets
- Protects Bulbs
- Lasts up to 3 months
Repel moles, voles, gophers, rabbits & skunks without harming them. Protects lawns, flower beds, & gardens. Clean, dustless, biodegradable granules are safe for use around children, plants and pets. Lasts up to 3 months.
Safe Solutions for Mole and Vole Problems
Vole Damage: Damage from vole ‘runways’, as pictured above, is an un-welcome sight as snow melts in the spring. Photo Credit: Jason D. Lanier, UMass Extension Technician
Now that our record-breaking snow pack is just an unpleasant memory, our attention can focus on the lawn and garden. Something to watch for are signs of moles, voles and other winter hungry rodents. Heavy snow provides protective cover from predators, so moles and voles are free to do a lot of damage without risk.
Moles (carnivores) can be found in the lawn feeding on grubs and other insects or even earthworms. Voles (herbivores) tend to go after perennial beds and turfgrass. As snow receeds, you might notice bare patches of lawn where voles have fed on the grass, usually accompanied by vole ‘runways’ (winding 1-2 wide pathways) which are caused by wear from vole traffic.There are lots of different products on the market for moles and voles. I’ve seen baited poison pellets syringes that are injected into the ground, peanut or grub looking bait poison, or even guillotine looking traps.
While you may feel the rodents that just ruined your lawn and garden deserve to die, there is an organic non-lethal product that really works: It’s called MOLEMAX from Bonide. MOLEMAX is an organic castor oil. Available in liquid or granules, the package says it repels moles, voles, gophers, rabbits, skunks and armadillos. (Man, I really hate it when those armadillos hang around) Very simply, these critters don’t like the taste and move out of the area relatively quick. It’s safe around children, plants and pets, and can be applied spring, summer or fall – but now is a great time since you’re bound to discover those guys in great numbers after the snow is gone. Apply on lawns, flower beds and gardens. Lasts up to 3 months.
Click here to download the “VOLE DAMAGE TO LAWNS” (PDF) factsheet from UMass Extension
Why Mahoney's Carries Jonathan Green Grass Seed
Out of all the grass seed companies in the country, we choose to carry Jonathan Green grass seed because it is the best, hands down the best. We can buy grass seed that’s cheaper, we can buy gimmicky grass seed like coated grass seed, but we choose to go with the quality of Jonathan Green. After sitting down with Barry Green years ago at a trade show, I realized I was not talking to a salesman… but a bona fide grass guru.
Mike Mahoney: Mahoney’s Turfgrass Specialist
This man amazed me, his knowledge of his grass seed and his competitors as well. He taught me how competitors use older varieties of turf seed that may only be a couple of years old but are completely out of date. As new varieties come to market the old ones get cheap this is why some of the seeds in a mix today will not be there in a couple of years. I often see people come in to our stores trying to get rid of turf in their lawn I know came from a poor grass seed mix, so like I always say to people, when it comes to weeds and grass seed you get what you pay for!
So anyone can talk about or promote what they are trying to sell right? I thought I would invite the seedsman himself, Barry Green to talk about turf and like anyone who really loves and believes in what he does he agreed, so here is Barry Green, 4th generation seedsman. I hope you will find him as interesting and informative as I did, and remember never give up quality for a cheap price.
Reply: from Barry K. Green II
President Jonathan Green, Inc.
Let me start by thanking Mike Mahoney for such a nice introduction. I don’t think I’ve ever been described as a “bona fide grass guru” before but I guess that if this description is meant to illustrate my commitment and passion for breeding and selling the very best grass seed varieties, then it is accurate!
My father and grandfather both instilled into me the strongly held belief that quality grass seed will sell and that react lawn seeding results will help to spread a positive word-of-mouth from one homeowner to the next regarding the good seeding results that were achieved when Jonathan Green grass seed was planted on their lawn.
Barry Green with Black Beauty Turf: Black Beauty turf seeds produce deeply rooted, drought- and disease-resistant lawns.Our business was founded generations ago by Jonathan Green to supply professional grass seed customers such as sod growers. We knew that if we hoped to be successful that we would have to provide grass seed varieties and seeding results that met and exceeded our customer’s expectations. To accomplish this goal we knew that we would have to get into the turfgrass breeding business and in 1986 we did, when we established a turfgrass research farm near Salem, Oregon in the heart of the grass seed production region in the United States.
Soon after we planted turfgrass evaluations plots at leading universities and on sod farms throughout the north east and Mid-Atlantic States in order to make sure that our grasses would perform as expected under the stressful growing conditions we face in our marketing areas, where we have very hot and humid summers and icy- cold winters. A few years later we learned of a new research breakthrough called “beneficial endophytes” which could be bred into perennial ryegrasses, fines fescues and turf-type tall fescues making these grasses distasteful to surface feeding insects such as chinch bugs and sod webworms and soon after we introduced endophytes into our entire grass seed retail program. These beneficial endophytes also help the grass plant to be more drought tolerant and disease resistant. At this time, Jonathan Green, Inc. is the only grass seed company selling grass seed mixtures with beneficial endophytes to the general public.
Barry Green with Dr. Xunzhong Zhang of Virginia Tech University: Barry Green with Dr. Xunzhong Zhang of Virginia Tech University inspecting grass samples that were being evaluated for disease resistance.
In 1993 we discovered another important break through in turfgrass breeding. In a desert oasis on the edge of the Sahara Desert on the border between Morocco and Algeria a new cool season grass was discovered that was surviving under the hot and dry desert growing conditions because of an invisible waxy-cuticle coating, which we discovered, with a microscope, on the outer leaf surface. This coating much like the natural wax on an apple, which makes it shine when you polish it on your sleeve, protected the moisture inside the grass plant leaf and guarded it against the hot dry desert winds; not unlike the natural defensive measures that a cactus uses to survive. This new grass plant and a second grass from the same turf grass family, with the same waxy coating, was discovered a few years later in a park in Marquette, Michigan.
On the Upper Peninsula of Michigan the winters are very harsh but once again the waxy coating helped this newly discovered grass plant to survive. After many years of evaluation and turfgrass breeding work we were able to cross these two grasses to create what we now call the “Black Beauty Breakthrough in Turfgrass Breeding”. The Black Beauty Turf-Type Tall Fescues look very similar to Kentucky Bluegrass but are more deeply rooted, drought tolerant and disease resistant than any other grass seed variety which has previously been available. The Black Beauty Tall Fescues will grow in full sun and partial shade and in sandy or heavy clay soils. They will thrive under the adverse growing conditions of Eastern New England and will look great doing so! The Black Beauty grasses can be found in our original Black Beauty and Black Beauty Ultra Grass Seed Mixtures and as a key component in many of our other great grass seed mixtures.
Grass Seed Comparison: A pound of Jonathan Green Turf Seeds (right) contain significantly more seed that the “gimmicky” coated seeds (left)In Mike Mahoney’s introduction to this article he mentioned that he could buy grass seed that’s cheaper, or gimmicky grass seed mixtures such as coated grass seed, but he chooses to go with the quality of Jonathan Green. We understand and applaud Mike’s passion and we share his belief that you get what you pay for! Jonathan Green will always strive to offer its customers the very best that turfgrass research has to offer. We are committed to the long term success of our customers and this is why you will never find any outdated grasses, fillers, high weed or crop content in our seed mixtures. We have our name on the package and are proud of what we put in it.
This is also why Jonathan Green products are only offered for sale at fine independent garden centers such as Mahoney’s. Long ago we made the important decision that our products would only be sold by the independent lawn and garden, because this is where homeowners must go to get the advice and instructions that they need to achieve success on their lawns.
The Mahoney’s Garden Center Group has been one of our very best independent garden center customers right from the beginning. I am a big admirer of how the Mahoney family gets personally involved in helping their customers to grow and maintain beautiful, lawns, gardens and home landscapes. We appreciate the Mahoney Family’s commitment to Jonathan Green Inc. and look forward to being a partner with the finest garden centers in New England for many years to come!
Very truly yours,
Barry K. Green II
President
Jonathan Green, Inc.
Closing thought from Mike Mahoney
Jonathan Green’s commitment to excellence applies to all their other products as well. That’s we carry their lawn fertilizer which is not only of the highest quality, but also formulated specifically for new England’s cool season turf grasses. Like Mahoney’s, Jonathan Green was early to see the demand for organics, and they have really stepped up to the market with a large selection of excellent organic lawn fertilizers.
In Lawn Care, as with most things there is so much marketing fog out there, that people often lose sight of quality, or just don’t know what quality really is. I really believe in Jonathan Green and wanted to write it down and share it. Why settle for mediocre?
-Mike Mahoney
Tips for Fall Lawn Care
Starting in early September, the stressful heat and humidty that encourage weeds and fungus to run rampant have passed. During this time of year your lawn takes advantage of the improved conditions by increasing root growth and storing energy. There are several things that should be done in the fall to maintain a lawn’s health throughout the late fall and winter.
Aerate
Aerating your lawn will allow light, moisture, air and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the root system, creating healthier, stronger roots and improving drainage.
Fertilize
The best way to keep a full, disease and drought resistant lawn is to maintain a healthy root system. In the fall, lawns should be fertilized twice to encourage continuous root growth and good color throughout the season. Feed once in early September and then follow up with a second feeding in mid-October to encourage rooting and carbohydrate storage for winter survival.
Overseed
Overseeding your lawn in the fall is one of the most effective ways of reducing weeds in the spring. By simply increasing the thickness and desity of your lawn, there is less available space for weeds to grow. It’s important to use a seed with an aggressive juvenile stage so it will reach maturity before the winter.
Organic Lawn Care
Why go organic?
If you have kids or pets it’s an easy decision, but if not, here are a few reasons: an organic lawn will save you time, energy and money. In a nutshell, organic lawns require half as much maintenance, are less habitable for weeds, require less water and keep harmful chemicals out of water supplies.
The basic approach
Organic lawn care is as much about changing your lawncare practices and expectations as it is about choosing the right products. The goal is to create an environment that allows your grass to become more self sufficient and less reliant on chemical fertilizers and control products. The key to creating a healthy, self-sufficient lawn is revitilizing the soil.
Soil biology-The key to a healthy, self sufficient Lawn
Over the last 500 million years plants and beneficial soil microorganisms have developed a symbiotic relationship. When a plant photosynthesizes it releases a carbon exudate into the soil, which microorganisms utilize as a food source. The microbes then surround the root to feed on the carbon and in return protect the plant roots, recycle nutrients, improve nutrient availability, improve nutrient absorption, minimize nutrient leaching and improve the soil structure over time. As you can see this truly is a “symbiotic relationship”.
Today many soils are out of balance and are virtually devoid of beneficial microbial populations due primarily to an over reliance on “quick fix” cultural practices, which rely on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to manage turf. Synthetic fertilizers push excessive plant growth which actually weakens the plant and makes it a target for insects and disease. Pesticides applied to control lawn insects elevate the problem by killing beneficial soil microorganisms. When the microbes are no longer there to protect the roots you are forced to apply more pesticides and the cycle continues.
So creating a healthy, self-sufficient lawn starts by revitalizing the soil biology and re-establishing beneficial microbial populations. This can be achieved through the use of quality organic lawn care products along with responsible lawn care maintenance practices.
Organic Lawn Care Products
Organica 4 Step Lawn Program
Organica’s 4 Step Program is a back to basics approach to plant management designed to revitalize soil biology and provide a foundation for healthy turf growth. Organica’s “Natural Lawn Program” is designed to re-establish beneficial microbial populations and provide the soil with the necessary components to promote healthy controlled growth and reduce plant stress.
Plant-tone® 5-3-3
All Natural, All Purpose Plant Food with Bio-tone® Microbes
Plant-tone is the original all natural plant food made from quality organic ingredients. Plant-tone’s natural organics breakdown gradually, providing a safe, long lasting food reservoir activated throughout the growing season. Plant-tone’s all natural formula contains Bio-tone®, our proprietary blend of beneficial microbes. Bio-tone biologically enhances our natural plant food to ensure superior plant growth. Plant-tone is approved for organic gardening.
For established lawns, apply 20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. 3 times a year – Spring, Summer and Fall.
Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer 2-3-1
Neptune’s Harvest is an organic fertilizer made from fresh North Atlantic fish and seaweed. It’s made by a unique cold process that protects the vitamins, amino acids, enzymes and growth hormones.
It also contains all the micro and macro nutrients naturally found in fish. The nitrogen and other nutrients are chelated, so they are readily available for plants consumption. Unlike fish emulsions, Neptune’s Harvest retains the fish proteins and oils and has no unpleasant odor. University studies have shown Neptune’s Harvest to outperform chemical fertilizers.
Jonathan Green Organic Lawn Fertilizer
Jonathan Green Organic Lawn Fertilizer is 100% Organic and contains kelp, feather, bone and blood meals, amino acids and humates. These ingredients help to rejuvenate your lawn with a slow, gentle feeding. They promote green-up without excessive top-growth. It won’t burn your lawn so it can be applied at any time of the year.




