Plant Care

Late August through Early October is a perfect time to get things done in your garden. The summer flowers have passed and the conditions are just right for refreshing your landscape and getting a head-start on spring. Cooler air and ample rain help to stimulate a period of rapid root growth, making fall a perfect time plant new trees, shrubs and cold tolerant annuals. Here are some tips on what you can do right now to dress up your yard and get a jump on spring.

Clean Up

Many diseases can overwinter in the stems of perennials and the fallen leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs. To prevent your plants from becoming re-infected in the spring it is important to rake up leaves and cut down any diseased stems of perennials.

Water

Winter survival of woody plants depends largely on the moisture of the soil in the fall. Water needs to be applied to ensure that woody plants have taken up sufficient amounts of moisture to prevent stress related to desiccation, that is, plant water loss in winter. When soils are dry in late summer and early fall, water should be applied once per week or so, depending upon soil moisture levels, through October. Click here for some tips for watering

Fertilize

It is widely assumed that fertilizing in the fall will promote late season growth that is prone to winter damage. However, recent studies have shown that the nutrients that support spring growth in woody plants are those that were taken up in the previous year and stored over winter.

Mulch

Fall is a great time to apply mulch to garden beds. By adding a 3-4 inch layer of mulch will buffer plants’ root systems from fluctuating temperatures and moisture levels throughout the fall and winter. Additionally it will help suppress weed growth.

Prune

Fall is the best time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs because after the leaves have fallen it’s much easier to see which limbs need pruning and how it will affect the overall shape of the plant. Another reason to prune in the fall is that insects and diseases are far less prevalent this time of year.

Plant

Planting trees and shrubs in the fall gives them a chance to start spreading some roots in the cool moist soil. The cooler soil and air temperatures along with the increased rainfall also take away much of the shock that plants incur during the planting process

When they’re flowering, hydrangeas be one of the most beautiful and rewarding landscape plants, but they can also be one of the most frustrating when they refuse to bloom. Here are some simple but important tips to help your hydrangea perform it’s best.

Growing Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas do best in morning sun with afternoon or dappled shade. Too much sun and they’ll need frequent watering, too little sun and they’ll have fewer flowers. They prefer an organic, dark, loamy soil. Amend soil with a good quality compost planting mix to increase organic matter in the soil. Top dress with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to insulate the roots an to help retain moisture in the soil. For more growth and more flowers, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every spring.

Pruning hydrangeas

Any pruning of macrophylla hydrangeas should always be done by the end of July to prevent cutting off next years flower buds. To revitalize older plants, thin them out by cutting some of the older stems. To reduce the overall size, cut above a set of leaves.

Winterizing Hydrangeas

The flower buds on both traditional and reblooming hydrangeasneed protection from winter and early-spring freezes. Mound straw, mulch or leaves around the base and stems. Remove this mound at the end of April.

Hydrangea Color

For many macrophylla and lacecap hydrangeas, their flower color depends on the acidity of the soil.

• For blue flowers, the soil needs to acidic. Aluminum Sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the soil.
• For pink and red flowers, the soil needs to be alkaline. Lime can be added to decrease the acidity of the soil.

Does your yard have a shady spot where sun-loving plants like turfgrass and lilacs refuse to thrive? Well, don’t despair! Beautiful, lush gardens can be created in all but the heaviest-shade areas. And shade gardens provide a cool, welcoming retreat from the hot summer sun.

Shade plants (such as hostas and ferns) often have wonderfully dramatic foliage. It’s relatively easy to create a sophisticated and elegant garden in the shade that emphasizes these foliage elements. Many flowering shrubs and perennials also thrive in partial shade areas.

Understanding the Different Kinds of Shade

Light Shade
A light shade area is one that receives 4-6 hours of sun each day, or that experiences dappled patterns of equal sun and equal shade throughout the day. Most plants recommended for “full sun” will actually perform well in light shade. Many traditional shade plants will do well here too, if protected from the hottest afternoon sun.

Medium Shade
A medium shade area receives bright light and less than 4 hours of direct sun, with a high cover of deciduous trees or partial shade from nearby buildings. All shade plants should do well in this environment, especially if they get enough water. A few “full sun” plants can also adjust and be useful in these areas.

Heavy Shade
In a heavy shade area, the sun is blocked by buildings, evergreens, or a heavy canopy of deciduous trees, with only indirect or reflected light throughout the day. It is difficult to grow a wide variety of plants in these areas; choose only those that will tolerate low light. In good soil, shade-loving groundcovers should work well. Consider also using stone, statuary, container gardens, and perhaps an attractive bench.

Dealing with Shade Created by Deciduous Trees

Getting plants established beneath deciduous trees is a special challenge-not just because of the shade, but because the newcomers must compete with the trees’ root systems for water and nutrients. The following tips should help.

Soil Conditions
The soil under deciduous trees often lacks sufficient organic matter and nutrients. Therefore, soil amendments (such as Mahoney’s composted cow manure) should be added either to individual planting holes or to the whole garden bed. Add I part soil amendment to every 2 parts existing soil. Dig the planting holes large-up to five times the size of the rootball. Planting in raised beds might also be helpful.

Light
Trim off the trees’ lower branches to allow for increased light and movement of air. Ifthe canopy is too dense, selectively remove some of the trees, leaving only the most desirable.

Water
During periods of drought, large trees hog water from surrounding plants, and many small plants will not tolerate dry shade so supplemental watering may be necessary. Take the time to find the right level and frequency of watering. Check the soil moisture around new plantings frequently, since underwatering and over-watering can both present problems. Keep in mind that frequent, light waterings can do more damage than good, as they encourage roots to grow toward the surface.

Fertilization
Plants under deciduous trees generally require more frequent applications of fertilizer, to compensate for the nutrients used by the trees. Many types of fertilizer are available, including slowrelease, granular, and organic fertilizers. Check with Mahoney’s fertilizer sales specialists to determine the type that’s right for you.

Surface Roots
Where surface roots are a serious problem, create a rock and stone garden, with accent pieces such as statuary, a bench, and groupings of container plants.