Mahoney’s Blog

Black-capped Chickadee: courtesy of Aspen Song

Northern Cardinal: courtesy of Aspen Song

Location. Location. Location. Hang your feeder in the quiet place near trees and shrubs that provide protective cover. Cats are cute, but not to birds, so don’t hang your feeder too close to the ground. On the other hand, don’t hang the feeder 15 feet high or higher - birds natural feeding habits are about eye-level (5-8 feet) similar to a shrub height or small tree height. Finally, don’t place the feeder too close to windows – birds can easily be scared away by your indoor movements.

Avoid cheap seed mixes. They’re inexpensive because they’re packed with a high percentage of millet, cracked corn, and other fillers that native songbirds do not like. Worse yet, cheap seed attracts those infuriating invasive sparrows that overwhelm your feeding area. Millet also attracts large nuisance birds like blackbirds, grackles and starlings.

Dirty feeders can still make birds sick. Empty your feeder and wash the inside in a light (9:1) water-bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry. Remember to do it every month or so. If you have NEVER done this, do it today. Also keep in mind that seed, like any other food, goes bad. Last year’s seed is probably not healthy. If your seed is full of cobwebs, flour moths have invaded it. Yuck!

Go easy on the stale bread. Birds may seem to love it, but bread to a hungry bird is like popcorn is to a hungry human: Loads of filler, but no nutritional value. Bread also attracts mostly starlings and house sparrows.

Provide suet. It replenishes energy and nutrients, and helps birds survive the long, cold winter. In the spring, suet meets the increased energy demands of nesting birds. In the summer months, it provides a good substitute for insect-eating birds, especially in years when insects are not very plentiful. In fall, suet helps wild birds store fat to prepare for migration or the coming winter.

New feeders may require patience. Depending on your environment it can take birds days, weeks, and in some cases months to start to use a new feeder. If the feeder is a replacement from an older feeder, it may still take time for them to use the new feeder.

Give them a drink. A heated birdbath in winter provides a reliable source of water, and gives birds more reason to stay in your location. Sporadic visits. Birds generally feed 3 times per day: morning, midday, and early evening. Don’t be surprised if the rest of the day your feeder is quiet. Birds can also be highly active one day and vanish the next. Don’t be alarmed, chances are they will return.

Place the feeder where you can watch. Use binoculars and keep a bird guide handy. Watching birds is not only fun, you’ll be reminded when the feeder is empty. Best of all watching birds lowers your blood pressure. (OK we made that last bit up – but who knows, it might.)

What winter damage is, and what to do right now to prevent it

Winter Damaged Rhododendron

Now that winter seems to be really here, it’s a good time to address the most common cause of winter damage to shrubs: wind and sun. Did you think it was cold and snow? A lot of people do, but that is a misconception. In fact snow acts as an insulator and protects plants. The real damage happens when winter wind and sun draw moisture out of plants and, because the ground is frozen, the plant’s roots cannot replace the lost moisture. Common examples of winter damage are browning of leafs, dead rhododendron flower buds, dead branches and in sever cases loss of the entire plant. Broadleaf evergreens are most vulnerable – especially Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood, Andromeda, and Mountain Laurel. To a lesser degree needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Cypress, Alberta Spruce and Yews are also vulnerable. For the most part, deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves each fall) do not suffer winter dehydration (desiccation).

Wilt Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves

Two preventions that work:

Spray with an anti-desiccant

Right now - literally this weekend, when temperatures are 40 degrees or above - spray your broadleaf and needled evergreens with an anti-desiccant. The product we like best is called Wilt Stop. Spray it on the upper and lower leaf surfaces and it will provide an invisible waxy coating that will seal in moisture, protecting the plant from the drying winter winds that can cause browning, desiccation and death. This is particularly important for newly planted shrubs, container plantings, and any evergreen that is planted in an area where it is exposed to strong winter sun or wind.

Wrap with burlap

Newly planted evergreens, and those that are planted in exposed, windy areas may benefit from being wrapped in burlap for the winter. The best way to do this is to drive 3 or 4 stakes into the ground around the plant, wrap the burlap around the stakes, and staple or tie securely. If you want to protect an evergreen hedge, you can simply drive the stakes into the ground every 3 feet or so on both sides of the hedge and staple the burlap to the stakes, snug against the hedge, rather than wrap each plant individually. Evergreen hedges planted along the street may be exposed to road salt so it’s best to use a double layer of burlap for greater protection. Road salt can be very damaging to the foliage. Never use any type of plastic, as this material will heat up on sunny days, causing the foliage to burn.

Special note about Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are also susceptible to desiccation. Flower buds that are located on the canes can also suffer winter damage. In this case, sprays and burlap are not the solution. Instead gently stuff straw or leaves in the middle of the canes, then tie up the canes and mound more straw or leaves around the outside. This cocoon should protect next years flowers from this winter’s wind and sun. Final note: do not uncover too early in the spring as tender buds could still be damaged during spring frosts.

Jean Dooley, Commercial Account Manager

Christmas Trees

Prolong: Christmas Tree Preservative

The secret to a long lasting tree is hydration. A properly watered tree will keep its needles and fragrance longer, and be safer, too. Whenever you buy a Mahoney’s Christmas tree we give it a “fresh cut” about ½”-¾” off the base to remove the sap “plug” – which allows your tree take in water. As soon as you get it home (or within 24 hours), place the tree in a stand that holds at least 1 gallon of water. Never store a tree on concrete and never shave off bark. Check to make sure the stand always has plenty of water. Do not allow the water level to drop below the trunk bottom or a new sap plug will form that will prevent water uptake. A new tree will take in a lot of water in the beginning, so don’t take a chance – plan on refilling your tree stand daily. Keep the tree away from fireplaces, radiators, hot air vents and other heat sources that could cause it to dry out. One more thought is to add tree preservative (Prolong) to the water. It helps to keep the needles fresher longer.

Poinsettias

Poinsettias do not like the cold. Whenever you transport your poinsettia (either when first taking it home, or when you are bringing it as a gift) make sure it’s protected from temperatures below 50°. Even if you’re just taking a quick trip it may be prudent to wrap your poinsettia in paper and preheat your car.

Once home, watering is pretty simple. Check the soil every day or so, waiting for it to feel a little dry to the touch – but don’t wait so long that the leaves wilt.  When it feels lighter and dry, then give it some water – but not too much. Over-watering is a more common mistake than watering too little. Also do not allow your poinsettia to sit in the water. Pour off any excess water, or place your poinsettia pot on a tray of pebbles. This will keep the roots from ‘drowning’.

Poinsettias don’t need a lot of light to stay colorful through the holidays, but some natural light will help them be extra vibrant well into the new year. Do not place your poinsettia where it can “bake” in the hot afternoon sun. Rotate as needed to help it grow straight.

Poinsettias prefer temperatures between 60º and 72°. Keep your poinsettia away from drafts, radiators and hot air registers. Feeding it every few weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer, such as 20-20-20 is also a great way to prolong your poinsettia’s color and beauty.

Wreaths, Garland, and Roping

Wilt-Stop: Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leavesIf possible, before you do anything else, soak your wreath or greens in cold water for 3-6 hours. The needles will soak up the moisture. Adding Prolong to the water will help extend the freshness of your greens. Another great option is to spray Wilt-stop on the leaf or needle surface. Wilt-stop is an anti-desiccant, an all natural spray that coats the greens with a thin wax that helps prevent moisture from evaporating from the needles and leaves. It’s easy to use and works great. Note: Unfortunately Wilt-Stop will seal in the scent of the greens and can also alter the color of blue evergreens and holly. Obviously soaking and Wilt-stop only work if your greens haven’t been decorated yet. Other than that, simply try to keep your greens out of direct sunlight and away from all heat sources. Adding humidity to the room will help a lot, too.

While it may seem that the gardening season should be over, fall is actually a perfect time to plant. Yes, things above ground may look bleak, but below ground root growth is still in full swing.

• Planting success is all about the roots.
• You can plant later than you may think.

When you plant in the fall the soil is still warm from summer. Warm soil temps encourage new roots to grow. Fall is also the time when plants naturally shift their energy from top growth to root growth. This helps plants establish faster. Rainfall is more plentiful and predictable in the fall. New plantings require moisture for optimal growth. In addition, annual weeds that compete for nutrients and moisture are finishing their life cycle, which reduces this competition. And fall’s ample rainfall encourages roots to grow more deeply. Deeper roots are better able to find water now and next spring.

Another counter-intuitive benefit to planting in the fall is the cooler air temperatures above ground. Cooler temps mean less stress and fewer pest and disease problems.

Last but not least, roots continue to grow until the ground freezes. The results are that plants that are put in the ground in the fall will have stronger roots to start off next spring. Then when summer comes, they will be better equipped to deal with heat and drought.

Some things need to be planted in the early fall

There are many plants that will thrive when planted about four weeks before the first hard frost. These plants – grass seed, turf and cool season vegetables – need to establish a root system before the ground starts to cool in late fall.

Seeds or seedlings of lettuce, radishes, broccoli and spinach can be planted in early fall. To extend the harvest later into the fall, a row cover of black plastic can be added for further protection once heavy frost arrives.

Early fall is the best time for rejuvenating your lawn or for planting a new lawn. Grass seed germinates at cooler temperatures than summer can provide. Weeds are not germinating now making it the perfect time for lawn work. Ideally, new grass seed should be planted about a month before the first hard frost predicted for your area.

Groundcovers such as Vinca or pachysandra will develop strong root systems when planted in the fall. When spring arrives your fall planted beds will be thick and full of healthy plants.

Some things can be planted even into late fall

Any perennial, shrub or tree that has been grown in a container or ball and burlapped can be planted late into the fall – right up until the time that the ground freezes. Later plantings will benefit from a protective mulch once the ground is frozen. This insulates the soil and keeps it from freezing and thawing.

Tulips, Daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs are best planted from mid-October through ground freeze. Planting too early can cause the bulbs to send up top growth at the wrong time.  Planting bulbs in the fall ensures a good root system and a beautiful garden when spring arrives.

Final benefit

Savvy shoppers know that plant prices come down as the year comes to an end. Perennials are an especially great bargain because most people see a perennial that has passed and assume it’s dead. Fact is planting perennials in the fall means you’ll get a great price, and the plant will have the fall months to grow a strong root system. Next spring you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic, established plant and some extra money in your pocket to boot.

Question: What do you do if you want tulips, daffodils, hyacinths or narcissus to bloom in your garden next spring?

The answer is pretty easy: dig some holes, drop in some fall bulbs and voila, you’ll get flowers. One small detail: you have to plant the bulbs now, in the fall (hence the name), and then wait until spring for them to bloom. That’s because “fall bulbs” need the time in the cold ground in order to bloom next spring.

Why buy them at Mahoney’s

All our bulbs are imported directly from the finest growers in Holland. We have lots of varieties to choose from: some of the newest hybrids as well as the most popular classics. And most of our bulbs are top sized. Planting fall bulbs is pretty easy.

Follow the links below to learn more about using bulbs in your garden

• Fall Bulb Planting Tips
• Selecting and Using Fall Bulbs
• Caring for Fall Bulbs