Uncle Mike Mahoney

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'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers

Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy.

With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike knows an astounding amount about organic and traditional gardening – tomatoes a specialty. Mike also possesses a wealth of information about plant care and plant care solutions. Uncle Mike is Mahoney’s “go-to” guy for advice about lawn care, including grass seeds and the rapidly expanding line of organic lawn products. And finally, Mike is deeply knowledgeable (and opinionated) about perennials.

 

Believe it or not, Mike started working in the family business at the impressionable (albeit illegal) age of 6. As with his other brothers and sisters, work and gardening was a part of life throughout their childhood. In high school Mike started a lawn mowing businesses to help pay for college. Mike graduated from Boston College with a degree in Fine Arts, and there was a time when Mike planned to move to New York City and pursue a career in art, but the family business won his heart in the end. Most days you’ll find Uncle Mike at the Mahoney’s in North Chelmsford, the store closest to his home in rural Townsend, and his wife and 3 children. When not at work, you’ll find Mike at home in his garden. “What better way to end a busy day then in the garden with a glass of cab or a bottle of fine ale.”

Posts by Uncle Mike Mahoney

Why We Carry Jonathan Green Grass Seed

Posted onAug 19, 2010Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Out of all the grass seed companies in the country, we choose to carry Jonathan Green grass seed because it is the best, hands down the best.  We can buy grass seed that’s cheaper, we can buy gimmicky grass seed like coated grass seed, but we choose to go with the quality of Jonathan Green.  After sitting down with Barry Green years ago at a trade show, I realized I was not talking to a salesman, but a bona fide grass guru.  This man helped me understand that his grass seed is far better than the competition’s seed, which are so often older varieties of turf seed that are out of date. 

Customers are always telling us they’re trying to get rid of turf in their lawn and it’s clear that it’s because it came from a poor grass seed mix, plain and simple.  High quality grass seed costs a bit more but when it comes to weeds and grass seed, you get what you pay for!

I invited seedsman Barry Green to talk about his product and like anyone who really loves and believes in what he does, he agreed.  So here’s Barry Green, 4th generation seedsman.

 

by Barry Green, seedsman and president of Jonathan Green, Inc.

Our business was founded generations ago by Jonathan Green to supply professional grass seed customers, like sod-growers, with seed varieties and seeding results that met and exceeded their expectations.  To accomplish this goal we knew that we would have to get into the turfgrass breeding business and in 1986 we did, when we established a turfgrass research farm near Salem, Oregon in the heart of the grass seed production region in the United States. Soon we were planting turfgrass evaluations plots at leading universities and on sod farms throughout the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic states in order to test our seed under all the stressful growing conditions we face in our marketing areas (including very hot and humid summers and icy- cold winters).

Big discovery - beneficial endophytes! 
A few years later we learned of a new research breakthrough called “beneficial endophytes” which could be bred into turfgrasses to make them distasteful to surface feeding insects, such as chinch bugs and sod webworms, and soon after we introduced endophytes into our entire grass seed retail program.  They also help the grass plant to be more drought-tolerant and disease-resistant.  At this time, Jonathan Green, Inc. is the only grass seed company selling grass seed mixtures with beneficial endophytes to the general public. 

More discoveries - heat- and drought-tolerant grass seeds

In 1993 we discovered another important breakthrough in turfgrass breeding - a cool-season grass was discovered surviving hot, desert conditions in Africa - because of an invisible waxy-cuticle coating on the outer leaf surface, which we discovered with a microscope.  Then a few years later we discovered another grass seed with similar qualities closer to home - in Marquette, Michigan, where the winds are very harsh.

And Black Beauty was Born

After many years of evaluation and turfgrass breeding work, we were able to cross these two grasses to create what we now call the “Black Beauty Breakthrough in Turfgrass Breeding”.  These tall fescues look very similar to Kentucky Bluegrass but are more deeply rooted, drought-tolerant and disease-resistant than any other grass seed variety which has previously been available.  They grow in full sun and partial shade and in sandy or heavy clay soils.  They will thrive under the adverse growing conditions of Eastern New England and will look great doing so!  The Black Beauty grasses can be found in our original Black Beauty and Black Beauty Ultra Grass Seed Mixtures and as a key component in many of our other great grass seed mixtures.

Only at Independent Garden Centers

Our products are only available at fine independent garden centers such as Mahoney’s - because this is where homeowners must go to get the advice and instructions that they need to achieve success on their lawns.  

Photo: Barry Green with Dr. Xunzhong Zhang of Virginia Tech University inspecting grass samples that were being evaluated for disease resistance.

More info on their website: An excellent link for information regarding Black Beauty    Or sign up here for Jonathan Green’s “Timely Tips” e-newsletter.
  

My Petunia Budworm Problem

Posted onAug 11, 2010Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Are your petunias doing well this year? If not why?

My petunias weren’t looking very floriferous. Weak in the blossom department.

Knowing that petunias don’t like the heat, my first thought was that the summer heat got to them. Also, they like regular feedings, and maybe I didn’t feed them enough in the weeks before I went away.

But then I looked more closely and noticed that the few flowers that were there were eaten with those infamous black dots all over the foliage.

Finally, I found the insect - the petunia budworm - and remembered that it caused the same problem last year, too. This caterpillar will devour petunia flowers in a couple days, so most people think it’s just time to give up on them when in fact, mine came back to life in a couple days. I sprayed the petunias with Bonide’s Captain Jack Organic Spray and fed them with some water-soluble fertilizer and they bounced back to full bloom in about three days.

Since then, I’ve had about 20 people come into the Chelmsford garden center with the same problem, so I’m posting this “fyi” for people who are about to give up on their petunias: They may not be lost after all; check for the symptoms.

Photo source and for more information: Penn State.

My Year in Tomatoes, and What Comes Next

Posted onAug 24, 2010Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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What I grew

Up here in the Northeast, we couldn’t have asked for better tomato weather…you need it hot, and we got it.  My tomatoes have been almost disease-free this year, with just a few minor problems, very minor. 

Surprisingly, I started harvesting early this year - June 15th, in fact, when I began picking cherry tomatoes, like Sun Gold and Sun Cherry.  Now all the medium-size to large varieties are ripening so fast I don’t know what to do with them. 

Of course I’m harvesting my Brandywines, too.  I love this heirloom variety and for me it’s what summer is about.  I grow lots of it because it doesn’t produce heavily but man what a taste!!  Slice those babies up with some buffalo mozzarella and a little pepper, creamy Italian dressing, maybe some fresh basil (I don’t like balsamic…too much heart burn) and yum.

In addition to growing the heirloom Brandywines, I round out my tomato garden with some terrific hybrids.  I’m talking varieties like Celebrity, Big Beef and Better Boy, all producing large, round, blemish-free tomatoes. 

A new variety that we carried this past spring and that I’m growing in my garden is called Mini Charm.  It’s a cocktail tomato or also described as “small grape tomatoes”.  And seriously, they’re small and oval like an olive but the plant’s huge!   In fact, it looks a lot like a Sweet 100 plant, which is quite aggressive and productive, with an absolutely great taste.  I’ll go so far as to say I’d put its taste up there with Sun Gold and Sun Cherry, and they’re my absolute favorite cherry tomatoes. 

What next? Fall crops

And now that my tomatoes are at their peak I’m harvesting them like crazy,  but it’s also time to start my fall cold crops. So today I spent my morning sowing carrots and beets in empty spaces wherever I could find them, and I’ll harvest those in October or November.  To me there’s nothing like fresh carrots from the garden - they just have more taste than the store-bought. 

Another crop I love growing in fall is lettuce and its leafy greens.  You’re probably seeing more of these in the garden centers this year, starting this month but also into September, thanks to the growers stepping up at the supply end.

Speaking of which, I got some lettuce flats the other day that I need to get in the ground soon, so I’m back to the garden for now.      

Brandywine tomato photo by RS Green.  Carrot photo by Sunrise.

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

Safe Solutions for Mole and Vole Problems

Posted onApr 04, 2011Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Jason D. Lanier, UMass Extension TechnicianVole Damage: Damage from vole ‘runways’, as pictured above, is an un-welcome sight as snow melts in the spring. Photo Credit: Jason D. Lanier, UMass Extension Technician

Now that our record-breaking snow pack is just an unpleasant memory, our attention can focus on the lawn and garden. Something to watch for are signs of moles, voles and other winter hungry rodents. Heavy snow provides protective cover from predators, so moles and voles are free to do a lot of damage without risk.

Moles (carnivores) can be found in the lawn feeding on grubs and other insects or even earthworms.  Voles (herbivores) tend to go after perennial beds and turfgrass. As snow receeds, you might notice bare patches of lawn where voles have fed on the grass, usually accompanied by vole ‘runways’ (winding 1-2 wide pathways) which are caused by wear from vole traffic.There are lots of different products on the market for moles and voles. I’ve seen baited poison pellets syringes that are injected into the ground, peanut or grub looking bait poison, or even guillotine looking traps.

by BonideMole Max: by Bonide

While you may feel the rodents that just ruined your lawn and garden deserve to die, there is an organic non-lethal product that really works: It’s called MOLEMAX from Bonide. MOLEMAX is an organic castor oil. Available in liquid or granules, the package says it repels moles, voles, gophers, rabbits, skunks and armadillos. (Man, I really hate it when those armadillos hang around) Very simply, these critters don’t like the taste and move out of the area relatively quick. It’s safe around children, plants and pets, and can be applied spring, summer or fall – but now is a great time since you’re bound to discover those guys in great numbers after the snow is gone. Apply on lawns, flower beds and gardens. Lasts up to 3 months.

Click here to download the “VOLE DAMAGE TO LAWNS” (PDF) factsheet from UMass Extension

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

My Azaleas and Rhododendrons look dead! What can I do?

Posted onApr 22, 2013Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Although the leaves may be brown and curled, this doesn’t necessarily mean the plant is dead. In fact in most cases the plant will rebound easily with a little TLC.Winter Damage on a Rhododendron: Although the leaves may be brown and curled, this doesn’t necessarily mean the plant is dead. In fact in most cases the plant will rebound easily with a little TLC.After a long, cold, snowy winter like we just had, we often see damage to our shrubs and trees often called “winter kill” or “winter damage.” The most common damage is brown or dead-looking azaleas, rhododendrons, holly and other broadleaf evergreens. Most people assume cold temperatures are to blame, but it’s actually caused by dehydration. In winter, cold dry winds and bright sunshine suck moisture from the foliage of broadleaf evergreens, much like chapped lips after a day of skiing. Plus, because the ground is usually frozen and the plant is dormant, plants can’t move water through their roots back to theire leaves. The result is dehydration, browning the tips of leaves or even entire branches. The more exposed to wind and sun, the greater the damage; particularly heartbreaking when it happens to shrubs you’ve loved for 20 years or more. Yes, sometimes the plant is dead and will need to be replaced, but often winter damage only make shrubs appear dead.

How do I know if it can be saved?

Look carefully and you’ll see that the leaves may be brown and brittle but the branch may have good life. Try gently scratching the bark with a fingernail, if underneath it’s greenish and pliable it’s probably still alive. If under the bark is brown and brittle the branch is probably dead – but not necessarily the whole plant. Continue the exploration down the branches and you will probably see some life along the way. Usually I tell people to leave winter damaged shrubs alone until late May. By then you can see the new growth starting, making it easier to see and prune the brittle dead wood. In any case, don’t give up on them to soon – in early spring, winter damage often looks a lot worse than it really is! All you need is a little patience and a good organic fertilizer.

Try gently scratching the bark with a fingernail, if underneath it’s greenish and pliable it’s probably still alive. If under the bark is brown and brittle the branch is probably dead – but not necessarily the whole plant.The Scratch Test: Try gently scratching the bark with a fingernail, if underneath it’s greenish and pliable it’s probably still alive. If under the bark is brown and brittle the branch is probably dead – but not necessarily the whole plant.

Use it on all broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood and Andromeda.Holly-tone by Espoma: Use it on all broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Holly, Boxwood and Andromeda.

Help the recovery with a good organic fertilizer.

I can remember I had a Holly and an Azalea that turned completely brown from winter damage. Then after feeding with Espoma Holly-tone fertilizer and some warmer weather from Mother Nature both plants completely re-foliated and grew back to where they were the previous fall. This saved me the time and effort of replanting the shrub. The earlier in spring you take action the better because it will allow more time for the bare branches to re-bud and start to fill in. There are other products to choose from, but Holly-tone is easy to use and it’s worked well for me. If there is mulch around the base, just push it away to expose the soil. Scratch the soil surface a little to allow for good soil contact and spread Holly-tone around the drip line of the shrub (the area under all branches). Just follow instructions on bag for proper quantity. Then just replace the mulch, water and wait for the magic healing to begin. You may need to go back and do some tip pruning later to cut out some dead wood but it’s far better than throwing out a live plant.

Side note:

There are several products that help prevent winter kill. They’re called “anti-desiccants,” a kind of a sunscreen for plants. Spraying an anti-desiccant places a harmless transparent wax coating over the broadleaves. The effect is to reduce the dehydration caused by wind and sun. Typically it’s applied after the first really cold nigh in late November or December. At Mahoney’s we recommend Wilt Stop by Bonide, but there are other good products to choose from.

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

It's lettuce planting time!

Posted onApr 19, 2011Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Here we go, off to another slow start to spring. But that’s ok with me, because these cold days and nights bring me to one of my favorite crops of the veggie season: lettuce and other leafy greens. Nothing beats fresh picked lettuce – the taste and texture is so much better than store bought. And it’s easy to grow, either in the ground or in containers. Plus this stuff loves the cold, so you need to take advantage of the season. Actually lettuce tends to “bolt” (stretches and goes to seed) when planted too late, so don’t procrastinate!

Any container will do!Any container will do!

Planting lettuce in containers – Start with any 10- to 12-inch pot that’s least 4 inches deep. It doesn’t need to be fancy (unless you like fancy, in which case pick a lovely pot that complements your outdoor décor and the color green). Good quality potting soil makes a huge difference, so don’t cheap out – and remember, topsoil or regular dirt will not work!  The just pop in 4 to 6 plants in a 12-inch pot and you’re off!

Planting lettuce in the ground - Lettuce is an efficient use of garden space. I place plants in a row about 6-inches apart, with the next row about 12-inches away. Iceberg and other larger varieties may take a little more room. When the plants start to grow close together I take out every other head to make more room to grow. Again, starting with good quality soil rich in organic matter is key.

Fertilizer – lettuce and greens typically are “heavy feeders” (like to be fertilized often). When first planting I mix organic Espoma Garden-tone into the soil, and then as the plants grow I add Neptune Harvest Organic Blend Fertilizer when watering. Try to feed directly onto the soil without touching the leaves. There are other quality fertilizers that will work, but I always do both feedings because it really pushes them along well.

Fresh lettuce tastes way better than store bought! Fresh lettuce tastes way better than store bought!

Pest problems – lettuce and other greens don’t have a lot of problems at this time of year.   Most insects aren’t out yet, and there are no major disease problems. The only insect problems I’ve ever had are aphids, and they’re easy to deal with. Every so often inspect under leaves. I usually use an organic approach such as insecticidal soap or Bon Neem. Start spraying every 5 to 7 days. Don’t let them get out of control because they get harder to deal with as the plant grows and inner leaves become harder to reach. Again, aphids are rare, but it’s something to keep an eye out for ‘cause there’s nothing worse than aphids swimming in the salad dressing. That said, also watch out for over watering; either from mother nature (which is uncontrollable) or yourself. While lettuce plants like an even moist soil, too much water will lead to botrytis, a rot at the crown of the plant.

Harvesting your lettuce – One of the great things about lettuce is how fast you can start to enjoy eating it. You can enjoy your first harvest in as little as 2 to 4 weeks. Remember, you can pick lettuce at any size – it tastes the same, it’s just smaller.  As they start to crowd each other out, just thin out a couple heads, enjoy your fresh salad, and the rest will grow on for another supper. I usually plant too much every year, and inevitably get a little sick of salad towards the end of the season. But then I miss it when it’s gone and I look forward to it the next time I can plant. So don’t wait, take advantage of this pre-tomato growing season and plant that lettuce; your rewards will be palatable.

Tomato Mania

Posted onJun 09, 2011Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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The warm-crop planting season is finally here and we can safely plant our crops and yes, our tomatoes.  I love this time of year because my wife and I get together with the kids and pick our favorite tomato varieties to grow, and of course some new ones we may not have tried before. One of my favorite things is slicing up a bunch of different tomatoes (different shapes, sizes, colors, etc.) and tasting with friends. The favorites are usually written down to remember to plant next year.  Over the years we’ve come up with a delicious list.  One question I often get is, “what’s a good tomato?”  I’ve got to answer their question with a question: “good for what?  Salads, sauces, salsa, sandwich slicer or maybe a good cherry or grape.  I have favorites for all occasions.

These are some of my favorites. Try some new ones this year – you may be pleasantly surprised.

Super sweet 100

What a great cherry! I like to call this one the ‘’babysitter’’ because it produces so many small red sweet cherries it will keep the kids busy for hours when you say, “go pick them”. This plant is very vigorous – don’t be confused by the size of the fruit, this is a huge plant and it will take up a lot of space. It’s not great in small pots, as it will outgrow them quickly, but that’s doesn’t make me love it any less.  I strongly recommend it, even if you don’t have kids to entertain.

Sun gold

This one is probably the sweetest cherry I’ve come across.  If you haven’t tried this one, it’s worth it. A little bit on the orange side so it adds a different color to salads. It’s on the low acidic end, too.  

Brandywine

Now this is what summer is about! This old Amish heirloom comes in pink, red and yellow – and they’re all great.  Who knows which is the original, but it doesn’t matter when you taste these. It’s not a heavy producer, so I make sure to grow more than enough. But man what a taste!!  Slice those babies up with some buffalo mozzarella and a little pepper, creamy Italian dressing, maybe some fresh basil (I don’t like balsamic…too much heart burn). Yumm!!! If you’ve grown this one and want to try something new try Burpee’s ‘Brandy Boy’.  It’s a cross between Brandywine and Big Boy. I got a nice yield with that great taste, plus it produces much earlier in the season.  

Big Beef

This hybrid produces nice large, round, blemish-free tomatoes.  But don’t confuse this with commercial varieties that are bred to look ripe before their time. This Big Boy is very disease-resistant. So if you have had problems with disease or cracking try this one, it won’t disappoint you.

San Marzano

This is the plum tomato that all others are judged by.  It’s larger than roma, and tastes better according to my Italian relatives and friends. This variety is open pollinated like roma so you can grow it with other tomatoes without cross pollination (which can result in different tomatoes than what you intended).

Juliet

A large grape or small plum, this is a nice sweet variety that I love in salads, although you may want to slice them in half for the kids because they are slightly larger than your typical grape tomato. Nonetheless they are a nice sweet tomato with a long shelf life.  

Prudence purple

This is another great heirloom I love to grow. These big purplish or dark red tomatoes are another great tasting tomato like Brandywine. A great one for any occasion.  I love mixing these in with a caprese dish. They are really big and meaty and they taste great together.

Ramapo

This one was a surprise. We tried Rampo for the first time last year and it was great.  It’s an old reintroduction of a Jersey favorite.  Medium to large fruit with a great yield, this tomato will please all your uses. In fact I remember tossing a bunch in when making a sauce and they were not to watery. They’ve become a staple in my August salads.

Whopper

This is one big, big, nice tomato. Wait ‘til you see it – size alone is reason enough to grow the ‘Whopper’. You’ll agree, it definitely deserves a spot in your veggie garden. 

Mortgage lifter

This is a big pink or maybe more red tomato that has a heavy yield of large low acid and low seed fruit. But the best part is the story of its origin. It was developed by radiator repairman, M.C.“Radiator Charlie” Byles. Without any experience in breeding, Byles made a successful cross of four of the largest tomatoes he could find - German Johnson, Beefsteak, an Italian variety, and an English variety. With the money he made selling the tomatoes he ended up paying off his mortgage, hence the name.

Lemon boy

If you want yellow, here it is. This medium-sized fruit is great tasting, as yellow as a lemon and has a heavy yield to boot. I love how they really brighten up a salad,

Jet star

This probably is a tomato you may have passed by or maybe you’ve grown it before, but a nice medium fruit sized fruit that is low in acid (you don’t have to be yellow to be low acid).  This plant is a perfect size for those upside down tomato planters, it won’t take down the house when you water it and it also makes a great vine ripe bunch like in the groceries store.

This is just a short list of our ‘Uncle Mike’ varieties that we grow in our growing range in Woburn. We have selected a range of hybrids, grapes, cherries, heirlooms, dwarf, and lots of others varieties.  We also buy a lot from other local quality growers so we have even more of a selection for you, and as we find new ones, well we’ve got to check them out as well right.  All our tomatoes are locally grown so there is less of a chance to get late blight which is a disease that has been a problem in the last few years.

Tomato varieties vary store by store, week by week. (Actually, on a busy day varieties can sometimes change hour to hour).
Beefmaster Beefsteak Better Boy Better Bush
Big Beef Big Boy Black Krim Boxcar Willie
Brandywine Bush Cahmpion Carolina Gold Celebrity
Cherokee Purple Early Girl German Johnson Grape
Green Zebra Health Kick Hillbilly Husky Gold
Husky Red Jetstar Juliet Lemonboy
Marglobe Moby Mortgage Lifter Mr. Stripey
Patio Pink Girl Ramapo Roma Plum
Rutgers San Marzano Sugary Super Bush
Superfantastic Supersonic Super Sweet 100 Sun Gold
Sun Sugar Sweet’n’neat Sweet Olive Tiny Tim
Totem Viva Italia Whitewonder Whopper
Windowbox Roma Yellow Pear    
'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

Petunia Budworm Problem - Updated

Posted onJul 20, 2011Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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This is an update of a post from last summer (My Petunia Budworm Problem) because the annoying flower-eating pests called budworms are back this year with a vengeance.

Petunia BudwormPhoto source and for more information: Penn State

My petunias weren’t flowering well.

Knowing that petunias don’t like the heat, my first thought was to blame the few hot days we had. Then, because petunias like regular feedings, I wondered if perhaps I didn’t feed them enough before I went on vacation.

But when I looked more closely I noticed chew marks in the tender foliage of flower. Then I saw black dots* all over the foliage. Finally, I found the insect - the infamous petunia budworm.

If you see similar damage on your petunias, look for the budworm caterpillars during dusk when their larvae are most active, or during daylight hours, check around the base of the plant where they hide. They start really small and get bigger as they get older.

The bad news is budworm caterpillars can devour all your petunia flowers in a couple days. The good news is that there are two treatments that work great.

How to treat for Petunia Budworm

Petunia Budworm Treatment Options: Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew (left) and Eight - Yard and Garden (right) by BonidePetunia Budworm Treatment Options: Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (left) and Eight - Yard and Garden (right) both by Bonide

If you catch it on the early side, a good remedy is a spray called Captain Jack’s Organic Deadbug Brew by Bonide. It’s a good solution for lots of bug problems, so not a bad thing to keep on hand.

If your petunias are really infested, another option is called Eight Yard and Garden, also by Bonide. Eight is water-based, but not organic. It works a little bit quicker, but in most cases Capt Jack’s is just fine. Whichever you choose you’ll need to re-apply every couple weeks or as needed.

Then try to feed your petunias with some water-soluble fertilizer. Do this and your petunias will bounce back to full bloom in about three days. Neat, huh?

Preventing Budworm from Returning

The budworm can survive winter as a pupa in the soil unless the soil freezes deeply. So if you overwinter potted plants in a protected area, such as garage, you might be helping the buggers survive. If you are going to keep potted geraniums or other perennial host plants between seasons, remove the soil to eliminate pupae and repot the plants before overwintering.

*FYI: The black dots are little budworm poops.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON BEES AND CAPTAIN JACK’S DEADBUG BREW

This product is toxic to bees exposed to treatment for 3 hours following treatment. Do not apply this pesticide to blooming, pollen-shedding or nectar-producing parts of plants if bees may forage on the plants during this time period. It is best to apply late in the afternoon when bees are not active. This product is toxic to aquatic invertebrates. To protect the environment, do not allow pesticide to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters or surface waters. Applying this product in calm weather when rain is not predicted for the next 24 hours will help to ensure that wind or rain does not blow or wash pesticide off the treatment area.

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

Veggie Growing Season Is Not Over!!!

Posted onSep 01, 2011Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Uncle Mike's Joi Choi
Cabbage
Iceberg Lettuce

You asked for ‘em, so we got ‘em. Pull up your crops that are finished and extend your growing season with fresh, new broccoli, cabbage, lettuce and other cold crops.

In the past I’ve heard people ask for cold crops (veggies that get planted in late August and early fall) but there wasn’t much available. But due to the interest in home veggie gardening, some of the growers (especially our Growing Division in Woburn) are growing some of these great tasting veggie garden season extenders.

What. When.

These cold crops can be planted now through fall and can include things like broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, kale, Chinese cabbage (bok choi), Swiss chard, spinach, and more. So if those summer crops have run their course or maybe some unforeseen (rhymes with Irene) problems cut your season short; these cold tolerant plants can extend your season late into the fall or even winter. Harvest timing is between 30 to 60 days, so plant now and harvest greens with the goblins – usually end of October, but I remember picking my broccoli last year in December and harvesting my carrots (that I covered in hay) in March.

Contain your enthusiasm

Guess what? These veggies also grow well in containers! Better yet, things like the kale or cabbage can serve as a decorative fall plant as well as an edible. They can sit on a doorstep and be very decorative just like the fall mums, asters, kale and cabbage. ALERT: The typical ornamental kale and cabbage shouldn’t be confused with the edible varieties – they look the same but have a bitter taste and rough texture. So make sure you get the edible ones if you’re looking to eat them.

So if you’re not ready to wave good-bye to the garden season just yet, or you just want to try something new, we got ‘em right now.

Tell us what you’re going to grow. If you want to confirm the availability of a particular variety, please call the Mahoney’s you plan to visit.

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...

Gardening do's and don'ts when spring comes early

Posted onMar 14, 2012Written byUncle Mike Mahoney
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Wow! They are forecasting 70º for this Monday! When we have such an early spring, it’s only natural to think of rolling up your sleeves and working in the garden. Before you do, check out Uncle Mike’s quick list of Do’s and Don’ts.

DO add Jonathan Green’s MAG-I-CAL or lime. MAG-I-CAL corrects your soils pH balance, and takes effect in as few as 7-10 days, where as lime can take months. Best NOT to put it down at same time as Step 1 – it breaks down the active crab grass ingredient quicker.

DON’T apply traditional Step 1 crabgrass preventers quite yet. They have a short window of effectiveness. If the temperatures stay this warm, it can go down soon, but make sure to apply it BEFORE forsythia blooms drop.

DO apply MossMax now if you have moss. Then rake up the dead moss before applying MAG-I-CAL or lime. Then apply Step-1 before the forsythia loses their blooms.

DON’T apply regular Step 1 if you are planting new grass seed. It will prevent the new grass seed from germinating. Instead, buy Jonathan Green’s Crab Grass Preventer Plus New Seeding. A bit more expensive but well worth it.

DO apply organic lawn fertilizers now. In fact applying corn gluten now to prevent crabgrass works great. The earlier the better!

DO spray dormant oil to kill Winter Moth. Spray on fruit trees, deciduous shrubs, blueberries, rose bushes and cherries.

DON’T try to kill grubs yet. Season-long grub controls do not work on spring grubs. Wait until the forsythia blooms. Look for our grub control blog in April.

DO put pansies outside. Just remember to bring them in if the temperatures look like they might go below 30º.

DO rake up your lawn now. Get a jump-start on spring clean-up!

DO prep your veggie garden. Dust off the rototiller, add compost and apply fertilizer – then when first cold crops are ready, you’ll be ready, too.

DO fertilize rose bushes. Only fertilize if you see the buds bright red or leafing out.

DO feed shrubs with Holly-tone and perennials with Plant-tone. It’s why we have it them on special right now!

'Uncle' Mike Mahoney - Mahoney’s Garden Centers
Uncle Mike Mahoney
Have you’ve seen our herb and vegetable plants and wondered, “Who is Uncle Mike?” Uncle Mike is Michael Mahoney, one of the six second-generation Mahoneys. With a face full of beard and too-well-worn hat, Uncle Mike is a genuine down-to-earth guy. With a passion for vegetable gardening Mike...